Ebony tip needs reattached

[ARshuter]

I had a customer bring in a stock with the forend tip knocked off. He tried to drill out the wooden dowel pin himself (never a good thing) in doing so he now has the opposing hole completely off from one another. I normally don't do these kind of jobs but told him I would give it a try. Looking for suggestions on how to reattach it without having to completely refinish the stock afterwards. Please any ideas? Thank you, Alan

 

[Larryh128]

Lock-tite 401 will re-attach it without a dowel in place. Be aware that this is an instant glue that gives you about 1/2 a second to have it positioned correctly. A little extra will slow it a bit. But it will hold most things.

 

[Larryh128]

Black Max is another that will work. Same deal.

 

[ARshuter]

where can I find these products? And Thank you.

 

[Biggabe]

Alan I hate to say it but I don't see how you will get it attached for a perfect seamless transition and solid glue job between the two without refinishing the stock. You can come close but depending on how picky he is he may or may not be satisfied. If he wants the job done right he might as well bite the bullet and let you refinish the stock after attaching the tip.

 

[Blackthorn]

You'll need two 6D finish nails, 3/16" threaded rod, acragel epoxy, some black dye, masking tape, paste wax, and a chopstick. Find a drill about the same diameter as the 6D finish nail. Drill two holes in the stock about 1" deep. Then cut the finish nails so they are about 1-1/16'' long (cut the head off not the point). Put the nails down into the holes points up. Then take the tip and position it where it lines up and tap it with a rubber mallet. This will mark the cap where you will drill. Take a 3/16" drill and drill out the holes in the stock and tip. I generally will drill 1/2"-3/4" into the tip and up to 1-1/4" into the stock. From there cut the threaded rod to fit into the holes. Should be just slightly less than what you drilled (overall depth in both tip and stock). Dry fit the tip to verify whether you need to shorten or re position holes or t-rod. Now mask both stock and tip with one layer of tape then wax the outside and barrel channel of both. Don't wax the mating faces. Mix the epoxy and dye. Now apply liberally to the the threaded rod and put into the holes. Move it in and out to spread the epoxy. Then lightly paste either the tip or stock. Push tip on the end and hold tightly. I will use a long bar clamp and run it from the front of the mag box and tighten on the tip. try to make sure you are only using enough pressure to hold the tip and not cock it. Remove excess epoxy that will squeeze out. I then let it sit for a few hours. When the epoxy is starting to set I whittle the square end of the chopstick into a scraper and scrape off anymore excess epoxy that may have leaked out. In about 6-8 hours I remover the tape and very gently use the chopstick scraper and even out the stock and tip. If you take your time getting everything set up right before epoxying it will be perfect and strong as hell. If it comes off now it will because your client broke the stock.

 

[Blackthorn]

Fill the holes your customer drilled with a walnut dowel and epoxy them in. Cut them short so you don't effect the face of the stock or tip

 

[Travelor]

Drill the stock hole over size so the attaching dowel in the fore end tip has room to move to align properly. (f they are both screwed up, do the same to each part.) Then fill the hole with glue and mate the stock and fore end tip and clamp til dry.