Dry bore or lubed
- Thread starter Eraser
- Start date
After cleaning regimen, I run a patch of Lock Eez down the bore and than put away for next time.
The last patch down the bore before storing is coated with colloidal graphite. Before I started using this product the 1st shot was always slower than the rest, indicating to me that the bullet was met with more friction. Cold bore shots are now always within group and is further evidenced by less velocity loss with the chronograph.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd
I hope this helps,
Lloyd
LA50SHOOTER
Sworn To Protect The Constitution.
Lloyd,
Is it the product that Gre-Tan rifles provides, which is a 20 micron graphite suspended in alcohol ? - A product that he provides with barrels after a chambering job or a new barrel is provided ?
LA50shooter,
Yes, that is the product. I didn't know they were selling it, so thanks for the heads up. I use the neolube1 only on brand new barrels. I get the bore absolutely clean and dry, then apply several coats if neolube1 to the barrel. It is an alcohol base and dries very fast. You can do this before even installing the barrel on the receiver. I would advise wearing rubber gloves while working with this stuff to avoid it getting on your skin .
The other bottle called grafoil if in a #9 oil base .This is what I put in the bore before putting the rifle away .
I hope this helps,
Lloyd
Yes, that is the product. I didn't know they were selling it, so thanks for the heads up. I use the neolube1 only on brand new barrels. I get the bore absolutely clean and dry, then apply several coats if neolube1 to the barrel. It is an alcohol base and dries very fast. You can do this before even installing the barrel on the receiver. I would advise wearing rubber gloves while working with this stuff to avoid it getting on your skin .
The other bottle called grafoil if in a #9 oil base .This is what I put in the bore before putting the rifle away .
I hope this helps,
Lloyd
Why fire 3 when one will do........IF you do it the right way. I can trust my 2nd shot with my method.
LA50SHOOTER
Sworn To Protect The Constitution.
That's your opinion & your entitled to it. - Yes agreed that after 3 shots there's no oil left in the bore. But I believe that the first shot down that barrel can "set-the-stage" for the level of accuracy that can be experienced by the next series of shots that are coming for the record target.
- I personally believe that firing on a perfectly "Dry" bore is not the best way to achieve the best accuracy for the record shots that come right after fouling the bore with the sighter(s). And not all barrels act the same, I believe we can agree on that if nothing else. - It sounds to me like you don't feel the conversation in the "thread" is justified, (starting to sound like an old folks home arguing about what flavor of pudding to have for diner) and if you feel that way then fine, move on to something that appeals to you.
Matter of fact I had a chocolate eclairs for desert right after I ran a oil patch down the bore I will run a dry patch before I go to the line an deal with it from there.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
I would prefer JELLO!! Raspberry or Cherry.
And if you don't have that, a couple of Jello Shots will do.
Barrels don't wear out from bullet friction, it's from hot gas erosion. Why would the first shot do damage but the second one won't?
Because the second one is riding on carbon and graphite. Matt
I bet I know who you are talking about. Matt
All of the old standbys in the Fifties and Sixties worked, Eh
Marvel Mystery Oil, Rislone, Bardahl, etc
They all shared one thing in common. They were designed to loosen, and help remove the sludge and carbon from your engine. They were not additives that provided lubrication of any kind. They stripped shit away. Wynn's Friction Proofing was mostly kerosene.
Edit: We used to wax our cars, also
Marvel Mystery Oil, Rislone, Bardahl, etc They all shared one thing in common. They were designed to loosen, and help remove the sludge and carbon from your engine. They were not additives that provided lubrication of any kind. They stripped shit away. Wynn's Friction Proofing was mostly kerosene.Edit: We used to wax our cars, also
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I shoot a wide variety of rifles from 100 year old military bolt guns, cast bullet single shots, modern hunting rifles, classic lever guns, varmint rifles and a couple of 40 year old bench rest rifles. For jacketed bullets I treat the barrels by how rough I feel the bore is and how much fouling I think is occurring and how lazy I am.
A rough bore may be wiped with a solvent patch and a dry patch for every shot. A rougher bore may get a bronze brush every 5 round untill it quits fouling. A smoother bore may be wiped every 5 shots.
Most of this is done to feel the drag of the synthetic patches in the bore. This gives me some indication of fouling. I have found that a blued chrome moly barrel may take between 100 and 200 rounds to shoot the most of the bluing out of the grooves. If kept free of fouling this long the barrels seem to never foul.
I try to tune my cast bullet loads to have enough pressure to avoid leaving unburned zombie kernels in the bore for the next bullet to run over. When initial cast bullet load development is done I may wipe every shot to clear the zombies and to lay down a zero thickness film of liquid alox bullet lube. As I reach higher pressures the zombies disappear and the every shot monkey business is reduced or eliminated. It depends on the bore roughness, leading and what I think when I look through the bore and my laziness quotient that day. These are falling block single shots and it is easy to check for unburned kernels between shots.
When the groups are tiny I take all the credit for being Einstein that day. When the groups are huge it is the terrible barrel or the bullets or the wind. It can't be me.
A rough bore may be wiped with a solvent patch and a dry patch for every shot. A rougher bore may get a bronze brush every 5 round untill it quits fouling. A smoother bore may be wiped every 5 shots.
Most of this is done to feel the drag of the synthetic patches in the bore. This gives me some indication of fouling. I have found that a blued chrome moly barrel may take between 100 and 200 rounds to shoot the most of the bluing out of the grooves. If kept free of fouling this long the barrels seem to never foul.
I try to tune my cast bullet loads to have enough pressure to avoid leaving unburned zombie kernels in the bore for the next bullet to run over. When initial cast bullet load development is done I may wipe every shot to clear the zombies and to lay down a zero thickness film of liquid alox bullet lube. As I reach higher pressures the zombies disappear and the every shot monkey business is reduced or eliminated. It depends on the bore roughness, leading and what I think when I look through the bore and my laziness quotient that day. These are falling block single shots and it is easy to check for unburned kernels between shots.
When the groups are tiny I take all the credit for being Einstein that day. When the groups are huge it is the terrible barrel or the bullets or the wind. It can't be me.
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mikegaiz
Stay frosty, my friend.
In an earlier comment you said MM did not burn. Where is the carbon of graphite come from?
You guys using MMO ought to look at the MSDS. it is neither a marvel or a mystery. It is about 75% naptha and 25% mineral spirits.
You can probably get better results from ED's Red for almost any use.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw2OvhqsYx1TPnYaq0dseXdS
You can probably get better results from ED's Red for almost any use.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw2OvhqsYx1TPnYaq0dseXdS
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