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Dry bore or lubed

Eraser

What is best for the first shot down range, a dry bore or a lubed one? I was told once to never shoot your first shot with a dry bore. I think the idea had to do with barrel ware.
 
Prior to packing everything up to go to the range I run a DRY patch thru the bore. Then I put the bolt in. I have no clue as to wear on a dry bore vs a 'lubed' one. Somewhere in my life I was told to have a clean bore before firing and I have always done that. (meaning I was never instructed to 'lube' the bore.) The one thing that really works for me is to insert the bolt at that time. It has prevented some really strong pissing matches with myself when I get to the range and remember the bolt is sitting on the bench at home.
 
If the bore was lubed and you run a dry patch through it, is it dry or less wet?

The stuff I use looks quite shiny with the borescope even after several dry patches.
 
I'll keep my gun barrels well oiled after cleaning and I run a Bore Snake through the barrel at the range before the first shot...

Dry vs. "wet" is very subjective as my "wet" may be a very light film, and another guy's idea of "wet" may mean dripping a half pint of oil out of the barrel...
 
I read an article where a shooter did not have consistent results with a oiled bore unit 20+ shots were fired.
The presence of light oil was blamed. The author stopped having the problem with a clean bore.

For what it's worth.
 
I follow the regimen of my mentors, all IBS record holders -so it worked out very well for them. Clean the barrel immediately after the last shot of the match while still warm (or practice)- follow final clean with a well oiled patch Butches Oil or Marvel Mystery Oil. On next outing, run a loose patch down the bore -leaving a light coat of oil. Begin shot strings. IME this method allows for the least number of fouling shots and prevents shooting a dry bore which promotes copper fouling. At first firing the powder fouling takes the place of the oil in providing lubricity.
 
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It seems to me that I remember reading an article in the old precision shooting mag we used to get from IBS that it would cause hydrophilic dents if you fired with liquids in the barrel. Whatever... My personal opinion is I shoot it dry. Think about it, don't you think that the air ahead of the bullet going 3000 fps is going to push out anything in the barrel ahead of the bullet? If there is oil left wouldn't the hot gasses burn the oil and cause a carbon deposit? Just thinking out loud...
 
mikegaiz said:
It seems to me that I remember reading an article in the old precision shooting mag we used to get from IBS that it would cause hydrophilic dents if you fired with liquids in the barrel. Whatever... My personal opinion is I shoot it dry. Think about it, don't you think that the air ahead of the bullet going 3000 fps is going to push out anything in the barrel ahead of the bullet? If there is oil left wouldn't the hot gasses burn the oil and cause a carbon deposit? Just thinking out loud...
Click to expand...
If you use a oil that is rated for use in high pressure/ temp applications - then no I do not believe the oil film vacates ahead of the bullet.The hot gasses are present for milliseconds. If no oil was left then the results my mentors were seeing would have been the same as when they tried shooting a dry bore......and the lightly oiled bore produced more favorable results. Most of my comp barrels only need one fouler using this method and many times the fouler is very close to the succeeding shots.
 
LHSmith said:
I follow the regimen of my mentors, all IBS record holders -so it worked out very well for them. Clean the barrel immediately after the last shot of the match while still warm (or practice)- follow final clean with a well oiled patch Butches Oil or Marvel Mystery Oil. On next outing, run a loose patch down the bore -leaving a light coat of oil. Begin shot strings. IME this method allows for the least number of fouling shots and prevents shooting a dry bore which promotes copper fouling. At first firing the powder fouling takes the place of the oil in providing lubricity.
Click to expand...

I followed this system* also which was taught to me by a bench rest shooter many years ago. I figure these guys know what they're doing when I see those tiny groups they can shoot.

I use a different lubricant from that listed above which I hesitate to mention here because I don't want fifty "alerts" telling me I'm crazy. However it has worked for me for 20+ years. I don't get any radical first shot flyers either.

Of course I'm not a bench rest shooter but sub moa accuracy is important to me because I'm a varmint hunter and there isn't much room for error in this sport. Clean barrel shots are not a concern for me. I do record all of them in practice which has given me the data and information I need to take this position. I don't hesitate to take a shot at a ghog from a clean barrel.

* Except I don't clean immediately after the last shot.
 
I run with a bore that has been oiled & a loose fitting patch pushed through it prior to the first round going down it, much like LH has described. - I feel that it reduce the opportunity to foul the bore in the begining, especially in higher velocity cartridges.
 
mikegaiz said:
It seems to me that I remember reading an article in the old precision shooting mag we used to get from IBS that it would cause hydrophilic dents if you fired with liquids in the barrel. Whatever... My personal opinion is I shoot it dry. Think about it, don't you think that the air ahead of the bullet going 3000 fps is going to push out anything in the barrel ahead of the bullet? If there is oil left wouldn't the hot gasses burn the oil and cause a carbon deposit? Just thinking out loud...
Click to expand...
Marvel Mystery oil doesn't burn. After my barrel is completely clean and dried. I put 3 drops of Marvel mystery on a patch and place my dry bore guide back in and push the patch through the barrel. The first shot at 1000 is closer to where it should be and it seems to clean easier. Matt
 
When you leave any petroleum product in the bore (even a very thin layer) it takes a few shots to burn out, and for new fouling to reach stable. Whether using those as sighters or not, the matter remains.

You can dry a cleaned bore completely (with alcohol), and then dry prefoul so that the bore is truly ready for next use (whenever that may be). This also serves to greatly reduce copper fouling.
 
After cleaning I put my rifles away with a very light coat of Kroils in the barrel. Before firing I wipe the chamber and barrel with a couple of damp patches of lighter fluid which evaporates quickly and maybe leaves a little lubricity. Just what I do and maybe means nothing but it makes me happy.
 
dkhunt14 said:
Marvel Mystery oil doesn't burn. After my barrel is completely clean and dried. I put 3 drops of Marvel mystery on a patch and place my dry bore guide back in and push the patch through the barrel. The first shot at 1000 is closer to where it should be and it seems to clean easier. Matt
Click to expand...
Montana extreme bore conditioner works the same for me.
 
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