• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Drill based trimmer recommendations

Sorry to start another trimmer recommendation thread, but looking through, it seems the more recent ones are 2-4 years old. I know not a ton has changed, but looking for a consolidated thread. current cartridges being done are .223, 6.5CM, 300WSM, 7.62x54R. So far I have been using a lee zip spin unit but wanting something that will be a little more time effective. I'm getting hung up in trying to decide between the Giraud tri-way, WFT2, Trim-It II, and World's Cheapest Trimmer. For repeatability and efficiency, I don't mind getting a trimmer for my 3 primary calibers, and just doing the 7.62 by hand still. I'd rather just "set it and forget it" then having to adjust them for each caliber. any thoughts? I'd rather something that chamfers and deburs at the same time, but haven't ruled out the WCT since it is so cost effective. If I go with the WCT, is there an option that isn't too costly for a quick chamber/debur? Otherwise i need to go back and then put it back into the Lee Zip Trim to do that step.

Do all of these trim off the shoulder measurement or based on full length?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Fairly new reloader so trying to minimize costs as I've already put a bunch into it at startup.
 
So far I have been using a lee zip spin unit
Why not use the length mandrels and case holders you already have and get the Lee cutter and lock stud ?

Mount a drill horizontal in your vise and fit the case holder and lock stud to it.
With a trim that removes the neck chamfer a touch inside and out with the Lee chamfer tool replaces it.

While you have the case spinning a once only hit with a flash hole deburrer and all your physical case prep is done at one station.

 
I have the WFT2 and WCT and prefer the WFT2 for my most used calibers. The WCT leaves radial marks on the brass. The WFT/WFT2 has a bearing thing the brass rides in to prevent marks. I also have one from CTStrimmers.com that has an aluminum housing with a nylon bushing that does not mark brass and works great.

I have a Frankford arsenal universal one for everything else.

The Deraco Engineering Ugly SRT Shoulder Referenced Brass Case Trimmer (on Amazon) looks interesting - I have no experience with it.
 
Last edited:
Why not use the length mandrels and case holders you already have and get the Lee cutter and lock stud ?

Mount a drill horizontal in your vise and fit the case holder and lock stud to it.
With a trim that removes the neck chamfer a touch inside and out with the Lee chamfer tool replaces it.

While you have the case spinning a once only hit with a flash hole deburrer and all your physical case prep is done at one station.

Homerange. I will look up a video to see if I can better understand how to accomplish it with this. What do you mean by case mandrels? Do you mean the case length gauges that I have with my lee zip trim?
 
I use the Franklin armory universal trimmer but I ditched their inserts and made custom ones that are cartridge specific that better align the case.
 
I have a Possum Hollow, Giraud Tri Way, and Trim It.

The Possum Hollow cuts really fast but will polish a radial line on your brass. Purely cosmetic and has never caused issues. It does not deburr. It works well on higher drill speeds.

The Trim It works okay but is a bit finicky. It has the bearing system so it doesn't leave a line on the case. It deburrs as well as trims. The depth adjustment is nicer than the Tri Way.

The Tri Way is a solid little trimmer and works well. The depth adjustment could be improved but I only use it for 223 so now that it is set, it won't need to be improved.
 
Here is an example of the LEE method using a drill

This option uses a motorized brass processing center like the FA universal unit or RCBS, etc.
The cutter and length gage attach to one of the power points and then you can chamfer/deburr on other power points. It works pretty well, and is easier than using a drill IMO (I've tried both) but is a bit slower on the trim function due to the slower speed due to the motorized center vs a drill.
 
Homerange. I will look up a video to see if I can better understand how to accomplish it with this. What do you mean by case mandrels? Do you mean the case length gauges that I have with my lee zip trim?
Yes, these if your Zip trimmer uses them:
Use in conjunction with the stud and trimmer I linked before:

Scroll down and see the images here:
 
I've used a Hornady powered version, and it works well when I need to do a LOT of brass, like a few hundred.
 
Yes, these if your Zip trimmer uses them:
Use in conjunction with the stud and trimmer I linked before:

Scroll down and see the images here:
really appreaciate the added info. I may even have a lock stud, so this would make the $ outlay effectively zero. Not the only question that remains is opinion on better results with indexing from OAL vs shoulder. The lee system will be an OAL index...which I currently use, while several of the others are based on shoulder. I full length size vs just neck size.

I read this and it seemed inconclusive. Not sure if there are further opinions. https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/case-trimming-difference.3965536/#post-37359752
 
The big decision is whether you want a trimmer that trims in a manner of being set from the shoulder (such as the World's Finest Trimmer, Giraud, etc.) or one that trims when using from the base of the brass as the beginning measurement, such as most traditional trimmers offered from all the reloading manufacturers - some of which can be modified to power trimming with a drill, etc. For the most accurate trimming, you need to go with one which trims from the base of the brass, regardless of maker. I use both styles, depending on how important this measurement is. For my match brass, I use the "from the base" style of trimmer - and when doing high-volume brass for varminting or plinking, I use the "from the shoulder" style of trimmer due to the speed of trimming high volumes of brass fast - mostly for my semi-auto rifles. The WFT trimmers are probably the most economical (and about as accurate as the more expensive Giraud or others in my experience.) Those are what I use on high-volume brass, such as .223, 20P, .22 Noser, etc. The downside of them is that shoulders are rarely the same length on fired brass, so your overall brass lengths are going to vary as well, once trimmed. On my match brass, I use a Wilson trimmer with the built-in micrometer dial. This type of trimmer provides the most uniform lengths. The downside to that particular trimmer is the need for an extra case holder for each caliber you shoot. You will not find a trimmer that produces more uniform lengths, though there are others that will do the job. If you want one trimmer to do it all and want the most uniform lengths, avoid the "off the shoulder" models, regardless of make. I edited this to dwell on the micrometer for a minute. If you choose one trimmer, having a micrometer dial on it for quick, precise adjustments is a HUGE plus when going back and forth between different calibers, etc. You just put the brass in the holder, run the cutter almost to the brass, then incrementally turn the dial to get the cut you need. It will save you from overcutting brass when setting up. You won't truly appreciate having it till you do. I'm not up to date on who all has micrometers on their trimmers - so can't really offer suggestions other than the Wilson I use.
 
Last edited:
I have to many “irons” in the fire. I fool with way to many wildcats or obsolete cartridges to have anything but going from the base type, I have a couple of Forsters. I rigged one up so it is some what like a lathe, made a bunch of 221 fireball and 20VT brass this past winter. Did a final trim and had to neck turn all of it, glutton for punishment.
 
Ive never used a trimmer that is based off the shoulder so perhaps someone can clear this up for me. How can the shoulder based trimmers be accurate when most shoulders dont bump perfectly? If you have a 1-2 thou variation in shoulder bump, wouldn't this vary case length by the same amount?
 
I use WFT for 223 I like it
It may vary since off the shoulder but I can’t believe a couple thou either way is going to be trouble
It works best when you keep shavings blown out I keep air hose handy on volume jobs
They can be a little annoying to get set exactly where you want but then it is zippity do da! For as many as you want
 
Ive never used a trimmer that is based off the shoulder so perhaps someone can clear this up for me. How can the shoulder based trimmers be accurate when most shoulders dont bump perfectly? If you have a 1-2 thou variation in shoulder bump, wouldn't this vary case length by the same amount?
They aren't as accurate - for that very reason. The best way to minimize variation is to anneal before each sizing, as there is less "spring back" on the various shoulders - something I don't like to do after every firing. It is a way to get your brass trimmed out "pretty good", but "far from perfect" when running a lot of brass for the likes of the A/R. since I posted above, I ordered a motorized Henderson Precision trimmer that "measures" from the base of the case and does the three-way cut on the mouth. For precision AND speed, this is probably the best one out there. I bought it for just the reason you pointed out - shoulder variation problems with the shoulder models. Has the speed of the WFT and Giraud but measures off the base instead of the neck. The answer to my dreams, I think.
Edit: The Henderson is not an inexpensive setup. Costs around $850.00 plus each caliber cutter. I ordered .17, .20, 22, 6mm, 6.5 cutterheads to get me going on most of the stuff I shoot in volume ($60.00 each or $70.00 fully adjusted in the box), so it cost me $1,1,29.00 plus tax (shipping free). I'll keep my manual trimmer for the big cartridges at this point. When I look back over the decades on how much time I spent trimming and chamfering, this is a must have for those who look forward to a lifetime of reloading - if one can get past the sticker price. I hope I get over it before I croak......
 
Last edited:
I think this area is ripe for better solution. Have several butchered solutions. Modified a trim it to accept an rcbs 2 way cutter. I find the trim it 2 stuff hard to set up well. 3 way cutters are awesome in theory, but lack in execution.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,196
Messages
2,191,308
Members
78,745
Latest member
kass
Back
Top