GSPV said:Anyone ever seen their point of impact walk on a bright sunny day? I used to.
BoydAllen said:A friend did an experiment that relates to your question. He measured the distance between the inside of his scope ring caps, and then set the rifle in the sun for a half hour, and then remeasured it. The distance increased by several thousandths. He told me that if he is doing some serious testing, that after the rifle is warmed up he slightly loosens the rear ring on the scope, and then retightens it. Short answer, he has observed a change in point of impact.
Nope. Friend's 22 RF ammo testing rail gun. Groups didn't open. POI walked. Admittedly, it was an Alabama-type bright, sunny, hot day. But the POI observably walked.raythemanroe said:GSPV said:Anyone ever seen their point of impact walk on a bright sunny day? I used to.
Is that mirage and burn rate more so then holding point of impact?
And if you see no improvement in accuracy then the entire point is moot!The fellow that I used to work for, has a much bigger rifle and scope budget than I do, and since I was the one that introduced him to some of the finer points of rifle building, shooting and reloading, it fell to me to mount his scopes. Let me tell you, when you are mounting scopes that retail for more than 2,000, for the fellow that signs your check, you want to get it right the first time. The rings were top of the line, and the scope bases were integral or one piece. I used Kokopelli lapping bars and the compound that is furnished with them. The story is told when you take a few strokes with the charged bar, and then look at the cutting pattern in the bottom halves of the rings. In every case, the fit was improved by lapping. None of this guarantees the alignment of the scope, that is determined by the alignment of the action's base mounting holes. The actions that we were working with were all custom and pretty well aligned, based on the amount of adjustment it took to zero the scopes, starting with the reticules centered. I have also bedded rings with good results. The easiest solution to date, when weight is not critical is to combine a Weaver spec. base or bases, with Burris Signature Zee rings. With these rings and the proper pairs of offset inserts, minor miracles can be accomplished. I have a Savage rifle that required .020 offset inserts, installed with the offsets aligned horizontally, with the front in the opposite direction from the back, to center the scope on the action. The combination worked very well, bringing the scope very close to perfect alignment, with no lapping, bedding or any sort of metal work. Obviously actions should not be this far off, but this one is, and I was able to fully compensate for the misalignment. Lots of fellows are told that you can buy the expensive stuff and just bolt things together. If you are dealing with factory actions this is complete BS, and even with custom actions, it is better to either lap or bed. As to whether you will see any difference on the target, it is hard to say. That depends on how correct other details are, including the rifle, scope, loads, and the shooter.
You brought this thread that went dead in 2013 back to life just to throw that negative comment out there ?And if you see no improvement in accuracy then the entire point is moot!
Bored.You brought this thread that went dead in 2013 back to life just to throw that negative comment out there ?
Even if I did not believe that there would be an accuracy improvement, I would lap, just to make sure that I did not have ring marks. I like aluminum rings, and they are easy to lap. BTW, what exactly was the point of the target?I've never lapped a scope View attachment 1172170
I guess to show what kind of results I was getting and giving my 2 cents on the subject. After all isn't that the point of having the forum and electronically talking with each other about it. But judging from some of the feedback I guess that's a unacceptable terrible group. I dunno looked good to me, I also had a guy on hear tell me because I was using PPU Serbian brass and bullets and not nosler lapua Sierra or norma that I was some kind of a amateur and spinning my wheels and wasting my time and $. But like I said I'm happy with my results.Even if I did not believe that there would be an accuracy improvement, I would lap, just to make sure that I did not have ring marks. I like aluminum rings, and they are easy to lap. BTW, what exactly was the point of the target?
I truly think Lapua and Norma brass are superior to pretty much anything else out there in respect to overall quality and durability. That said - phenomenal groups can be had shooting brass that is routinely described as "garbage" by a lot of folks. I shoot Lapua and Norma exclusively in my target rifles and couldn't be happier with the stuff. That said - some of my best groups ever fired came from Federal .308 brass I had converted to .243 back in the brass shortage. Granted - a lot of prep work was done to the brass. But what is most important is what you just said - whether YOU are satisfied with it.I also had a guy on hear tell me because I was using PPU Serbian brass and bullets and not nosler lapua Sierra or norma that I was some kind of a amateur and spinning my wheels and wasting my time and $. But like I said I'm happy with my results.
Yes I agree. I have the premium stuff and it shoots great also the cheap stuff almost as well. I think this is the beauty of reloadingI truly think Lapua and Norma brass are superior to pretty much anything else out there in respect to overall quality and durability. That said - phenomenal groups can be had shooting brass that is routinely described as "garbage" by a lot of folks. I shoot Lapua and Norma exclusively in my target rifles and couldn't be happier with the stuff. That said - some of my best groups ever fired came from Federal .308 brass I had converted to .243 back in the brass shortage. Granted - a lot of prep work was done to the brass. But what is most important is what you just said - whether YOU are satisfied with it.