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Do you bed aluminum bedding blocks 300wsm

Found a deal on a 300wsm (rem 700)

Found a deal on an HS precision stock

together they make a nice rifle.


So far factory 150's will group an even 1 inch

165's 2 to 3 inches

180's 4 inches and more.


I would like to shoot 165's

what would you try next before getting a new barrel.
 
Yes you can, but shouldn't need to if everything is making good contact and doesn't have any movement.
As far as group size. You said you were shooting factory ammo right?
 
I have a New, HS precision Sporter style stock, for my older Rem 700 .22-250 and ended up relieving the aluminum, around the receiver as was too tight from Factory ( was wedged ) and about an 1/16th inch behind the recoil lug,.. then used, Ernie the Gunsmith's Pillar "Rings" on top of the factory pillars, to "level up" the action. Go to youTube and type in Ernie the Gunsmith, for instructions. I used Brownell's Acuraglas with, the fiberglass shavings (included in kit),.. Sub 1/2 MOA Rifle, now ! The rate of TWIST in barrel, must be known, to pick a good Bullet, too ! Good luck ! Only accurate Rifles,.. are interesting !
 
I bed everything too, a stress free skim bed with recoil lug snug is generally the best avenue. You CAN bed it tight, but taking it apart can be tedious and have seen a few crack the forend of the stock trying to get it apart.
I use 3 strips of tape (electrical type) under the recoil lug, 2 strips in front, 1 strip on each side and nothing behind. The action MUST be tight with the recoil lug recess ONLY where the lug touches the bedding. Even if the holes are not centred with the action screws, it is important to NOT alter where it naturally sits, unless of course you fill and re-drill the action screw holes centred to the action.

Cheers.
:)
 
Done it both ways. Depends on the fit and bbl clearance when you "drop" the barreled action in. If I can'get a dollar bill under the bbl all the way up to the recoil lug, probably going to have to bed it with a skim coat anyway. Just put two actions in two BR stocks yesterday at my smith. Forgot to do $ bill test and got home and did it and one fails. Going to see how it shoots first before taking back to smith.
 
I would like to shoot 165's

what would you try next before getting a new barrel.[/QUOTE]
Rl16 and some bergers or eldx or m's.
.30 cal bergers are a helluva lot easier to get than .264's
By looking at alliant site It'll push a 165 well over 3100.
 
I finally got a chance to play around with some hand loads.


Was able to get 165 Ballistic Tips with 64g of H380 down to an honest 3/4 of an inch.

A better, or higher powered scope might have shrunk that a little.

Didn't try any other bullet, or powder yet.
 
shb,

If your rifle started out life as an SPS then the factory barrel may be giving you all it is capable of offering. The twist rate is good and length is fine but it may be a simple case of a mass produced barrel. Remember that Remington is noted for it's longer throats...:rolleyes:

I don't want this to appear to be a blanket statement for all .30 caliber cartridges, but when testing several .30 cal. cartridges, I have found better accuracy when I moved up to the 175 grain class bullets. This has held true for me from the .308 Win. through the WSM and up to the .300 Norma Mag. with the Berger 175 gr. VLD Hunter. I also use a few of the Alliant Reloder powders.
 
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I say shoot it first. Not just one group but several groups allowing recoil to possibly change POI. After shooting several groups, remove the stock and replace it checking if that made POI differ. If nothing changes and your groups are acceptable meaning excellent, you could leave it as is. Bedding is ALWAYS the best for an accurate, repeatable set up but often times a factory bedded block offers exceptional accuracy out of the box. I have 2 I did nothing too once shot 100 rds thru. Good luck
 
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I forgot to say the velocity spread was

70

3009 to 3079

Probably try a couple more powders, and try to find some time to work on it at a relaxed pace.
 
The primary benefit of the aluminum bedding block IMO is stock stiffness. It's never going to be in perfect continuous contact with the action. I can't imagine not skim bedding it, as it is so easy to do compared to hogging and pillar bedding a plain stock.
-
 
Found a deal on a 300wsm (rem 700)

Found a deal on an HS precision stock

together they make a nice rifle.


So far factory 150's will group an even 1 inch

165's 2 to 3 inches

180's 4 inches and more.


I would like to shoot 165's

what would you try next before getting a new barrel.




I bed all all stocks, you want no movement, I also do not use tape on recoil lug.
 

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