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Do I need both a roughing and a Finish Reamer?

You can also carefully remove some with a drill bit. Just be careful not to go too far in. But, if it's your finish reamer on your barrel, you'll never wear it out. Advance slowly, back out to clear the flutes often, and clean flush often.
 
EDITED: I had the two reamers secondary functions reversed. Try this.

It has been my practice since my first full custom to get both for bolt action rifles. My first BR/Accuracy gunsmith told me that doing that allows the use of the rough reamer for an FL sizer, and the finish reamer for a seater.. Same for Go/No-Go gauges. If you really like the cartridge, you match the chamber for subsequent new barrels, and save the cost of new dies.
 
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It has been my practice since my first full custom to get both for bolt action rifles. My first BR/Accuracy gunsmith told me that doing that allows the use of the rough reamer for a custom seating die, and the finish allows for the use as an FL sizer. Same for Go/No-Go gauges. If you really like the cartridge, you match the chamber for subsequent new barrels, and save the cost of new dies.

a roughing reamer is not a sizing reamer. they are 2 totally different things
 
It has been my practice since my first full custom to get both for bolt action rifles. My first BR/Accuracy gunsmith told me that doing that allows the use of the rough reamer for a custom seating die, and the finish allows for the use as an FL sizer. Same for Go/No-Go gauges. If you really like the cartridge, you match the chamber for subsequent new barrels, and save the cost of new dies.
You can't use a roughing reamer for a seating die or a finish reamer for a FL sizing die. You can use a finish reamer for a seating die.
 
For a new build is a finishing reamer all i need? Or must I use both?
You don't "must use" anything :) ........You can use somebody else's reamer or buy yer own and then order a sizing die from one of three people on the planet..... ya's k'in single-point your individual chambers if you like .......but IMO the PROPER way is to get a finishing reamer and a "roughing/sizing die" reamer. You can call the second reamer whatever you want but it's purpose is to build you a sizing die that actually works.

But of course this only works if the person doing the work can cut duplicate chambers. 99% cannot.
 
I pre bore the chamber, then use the finishing reamer, that’s the way I was taught and it works just fine.
this is a great question the OP has asked--So when you prebore you lose the use of the pilot right? and you need to use a pusher as a floating reamer holder would not work?? hopefully these answers OP will find useful Thanks
 
You can also carefully remove some with a drill bit. Just be careful not to go too far in. But, if it's your finish reamer on your barrel, you'll never wear it out. Advance slowly, back out to clear the flutes often, and clean flush often.
So how many chambers have you done with a finish reamer only and the reamer is still sharp and useable? Id like to know this and hopefully the OP will find it useful also.
 
What ever cartridges I chamber I use a finish reamer period no boring bar or predrill at all the pilot on finishing reamer is going to keep you centered on the bore specifically if you have a good quality floating reamer holder.
and how many chambers can you get out of one?
 
Just skimmed this thread, a couple minutes of my life I will never get back. While I am not a gun smith, I was a journeyman tool and die maker for over 30 years. I can still remember my mentors telling me rough before finish. I loved my job and took pride in it. There are enough things that can jump up and bite you, that taking foolish short cuts should not be one of them. Single pointing or boring is another excellent procedure for chambering (for true location}. For the pros, your reputation is your bottom line. For the hobbyist, think of the cost of a barrel. Punches (failures) are a part of life. Why stack the odds against yourself?
 
I've used both methods, rougher/finisher and just finisher on long cartridges and didn't see any difference. High speed steel reamers on stainless or chromoly, cutting fluid is your friend. I would say a flush system is best. The key is to keep the metal cool and not let it get work hardened.
 
I have used roughing reamers , boring bars , drill bits , and just plain finish reamers for the Chambers I have done. This year I passed 300 barrels chambered total. Not as much as many of you, but enough for me to have an opinion.

With the current quality of reamers and barrels it still comes down to operator competency. Many have won with chambering methods that "will never work" and " wear out tooling " . Attention to detail, carefully watching and making adjustments are the biggest things to a good chamber , period.

All other things are like politics and religion. Argue and get mad, pronounce the superiority of your method, then go do what works for you in the shop.
 
I have a new rifle in the final stages being completed. I bought and supplied a new PT&G finish reamer to Kelbly's to chamber a USA FTR team action. I did not supply a roughing reamer. The barreled action is now with the stock maker.
 
Would it pay the average shooter to spend the extra money for a carbide finish reamer and not use a rougher?
 

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