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DIY carbon ring scraper

A trick for making short work of removing the carbon ring that forms at the end of the chamber is to use an aluminum arrow shaft with notches on the end. Please refer to the picture.
For 22 caliber, an aluminum arrow shaft numbered in the 16xx series having an outside diameter of 0.250’’ should be used. These arrow shafts are tempered aluminum which is hard enough to scrape carbon but not so hard as to cut into the steel chamber. Use an outside case neck chamfer tool to chamfer the end of the arrow shaft so that it will match the taper between the chamber neck and throat of your barrel where the carbon ring forms. Then cut or file notches spaced at 90 deg. around the end of the shaft. This creates four teeth in the end of the arrow. Insert the arrow into the chamber, press forward and give it a few turns. If it is a loose fit, carefully flare the teeth outward with a tapered punch (a common nail set should work) until the teeth fit snugly in the chamber neck. There is a little springiness to the teeth so a snug fit is possible. A bit of trial and error should get your new tool scraping most of the carbon out. A borescope used in between scapings will show you exactly what is happening to the carbon ring. Also, carbon will load up in the teeth so it will be obvious when it is working properly. The arrow shaft is anodized so there is little friction but I prefer to lube the end of the shaft with a bit of bore solvent anyway.

For 6mm chambers an arrow in the 17xx series (.266’’) should work in most cases. For 30 cal. an arrow in the 21xx series (.328’’) should do the trick.
Any feedback you might wish to provide would be appreciated.
 

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Dave,
what I like about this tool is that it is specific to the carbon ring and does not scrape any other part of the chamber. When using something like JB paste to get the carbon ring out, the chamber neck and throat also get the treatment which is something I like to avoid.

Your borescope will show you how the scraper is working and with a little patience you can get the scaper shaped and sized to get most of the carbon ring. Any carbon left came out with regular chamber cleaning tools in my case.
 
Actually, finding the rigth sized arrow shaft might be biggest difficulty. Our local archery shop seems to have them all and sells them individually but that might not be the case everywhere.
 
Dave, aluminum arrow shafts are easily cut with a regular copper tubing cutter. I use the arrows full length but they are plenty long. Looking forward to hearing how it turns out for you.
 
Dave, Thanks for the update. Did you chamfer the arrow tip before cutting the grooves? I would think that a chamfer to fit the end of the chamber might help. Looks like you are off to a good start. Besides your shallower groove idea you might try only two or three cuts in the arrow tip to keep it stiff.
 
Also, brand of arrow shaft can make a difference in hardness. I have some no-name (at least that I can remember) aluminum arrow shafts that work OK for their intended purpose, but they are definitely softer (and more prone to in service injury) than the arrows I have that were assembled using Easton brand shafts, so I think Dave is on the right track with the ones he found. Just a thought that might prove useful for this project.
 
You will need at least xx75's which are 7075 aluminum. If anyone needs pieces I may have some being a former archery dealer.
 
Jon,

Are you sure about the xx75 designation? Aluminum arrow shafts may be made ou of 7075 aluminum but the number code is supposed to designate outside diameter and wall thickness. For example a 1618 arrow would have an O.D. of 16/64ths and a wall thickness of .018''. The code printed on the arrow does not refer to the type of aluminum used.
 
I think you are both right. XX75 is the model or allow for Easton XX75 shafts, which are available in various sizes such as 2013, 2216, 2514, etc., designating the diameter and wall thickness of the XX75 shaft material......that's what I'm thinking!

Best Regards......Eagle Six
 
Years ago I started making carbon ring removal tools for each of my barrels by notching the neck on a "wasted" cartridge, cutting the neck off at the shoulder, and gluing the neck onto a wood dowel.

Frank B.
 

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