DIY Annealer using Fluxeon's ferrite core?

[ToddP]

Has anyone built their own induction annealer (such as the GinErick unit detailed in this forum), but that used the Fluxeon ferrite core ( https://fluxeon.com/product/annie-flux-concentrator-coil/ ) rather than the coiled copper tubing? If so, how do you attach the Fluxeon unit to the ZVS board? I'm led to believe soldering is required. Can someone explain how the coil is attached and show some photos of theirs?

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

A little difficult to tell from the photos on their website, but it looks like the coils either go into a screw-down terminal, or possibly a quick-connect. Doesn't look like a solder connection.

 

[Round1]

I can't speak on using thier ferrite core. I bought a core and cut the gap myself. I bought the copper wire for the coil. I tinned the wire and connected it using the existing connections on the ZVS board.

 

[ToddP]

A little difficult to tell from the photos on their website, but it looks like the coils either go into a screw-down terminal, or possibly a quick-connect. Doesn't look like a solder connection.

I mentioned soldering because I'd spoken with someone who had done what I'm trying to do. He mentioned having to solder something, but he never responded to my follow up question. Unfortunately, the picture on Fluxeon's website doesn't show the part of the coil I'm wanting to see.

 

[divingin]

Has anyone built their own induction annealer (such as the GinErick unit detailed in this forum), but that used the Fluxeon ferrite core ( https://fluxeon.com/product/annie-flux-concentrator-coil/ ) rather than the coiled copper tubing? If so, how do you attach the Fluxeon unit to the ZVS board? I'm led to believe soldering is required. Can someone explain how the coil is attached and show some photos of theirs?

Don't think that works. A ferrite core is a torus of iron. You need the windings to concentrate the magnetic flux.

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

Do you have the parts already? If you post a picture, I can tell you how they connect. If not, it's a safe bet there will be a screw lug of some sort. This is typical for automation cabinets doing power delivery (ie. what this project does).

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

Don't think that works. A ferrite core is a torus of iron. You need the windings to concentrate the magnetic flux.

All the cores shown on the fluxeon website are gapped, so they focus all the magnetic field across the gap (and across the case neck).

 

[divingin]

All the cores shown on the fluxeon website are gapped, so they focus all the magnetic field across the gap (and across the case neck).

Sorry, I hadn't looked at the site and thought you were replacing the coil. In that configuration shown, I don't think the core is attached to anything. It's the property of iron channeling the magnetic field that does the work. Completely passive. Same theory as the ferrite core that power cords are wrapped around (with insulated wires); there is no electrical connection to the core itself.

 

[ToddP]

Do you have the parts already? If you post a picture, I can tell you how they connect. If not, it's a safe bet there will be a screw lug of some sort. This is typical for automation cabinets doing power delivery (ie. what this project does).

I don't have the parts yet, but this is what I'm looking at. There's definitely screw lugs for attaching a conventional coil, but am not sure about the Fluxeon ferrite coil.

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

I don't have the parts yet, but this is what I'm looking at. There's definitely screw lugs for attaching a conventional coil, but am not sure about the Fluxeon ferrite coil.

View attachment 1518987

It looks like the leads going from the coil to the board will need to be different lengths. This shouldn't be an issue, as long as you have enough wire. You can call Fluxeon, and ask how much length you have to work with. Then it's a matter of cutting one end shorter to match your board, or re-winding the core with one end longer than the other (it's only four wraps around the core).

 

[ToddP]

Here is Fluxeon's response. I'm not quite clear why the same turn count the Annie uses wouldn't come close enough.

Our coils are engineered for the Annie's particular output. I don't think it will work well with these ZVS heaters as-is. You'd need to play with the turn count to get things right.

I could do that for you--our shop rate is $60/hr and I would estimate two hours. I can also sell you a cut ferrite for $25 and you can experiment on your own.

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

Here is Fluxeon's response. I'm not quite clear why the same turn count the Annie uses wouldn't come close enough.

The two boards may output a different pulse frequency, different voltage, or both. His point is that if you put too many turns on the core, you could exceed the flux density of the core (core heats up). If you put too few turns on the core (let's say zero), your "coil" is now a dead short, and your transistors will heat up.

You could solve this empirically with a laser thermometer. Start with a known number of turns, power the system on, measure temperature on the ferrite, coil, transistors, and a brass case. Then add or remove a turn and repeat.

 

[squint-n-squeeze]

The two boards may output a different pulse frequency, different voltage, or both. His point is that if you put too many turns on the core, you could exceed the flux density of the core (core heats up). If you put too few turns on the core (let's say zero), your "coil" is now a dead short, and your transistors will heat up.

You could solve this empirically with a laser thermometer. Start with a known number of turns, power the system on, measure temperature on the ferrite, coil, transistors, and a brass case. Then add or remove a turn and repeat.

Oh yeah and be careful! There are plenty of ways to burn or shock yourself with this! Please use good judgement and don't burn or shock yourself