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Dies that were modified

@DJD welcome to the forum. You said your purchased two dies, a 22-250 (modified) and a 22-250AI. You posted a photo of a case through the 22-250 die (modified) on the left and a case on the right through a 22-250 die non-modified. Nether are 22-250AI, so I'm assuming we are not discussing the AI die. If you have a 22-250 non-modified die, why not just use it?

At any rate, I would recommend as posted above, if you don't already have one, purchase a new 22-250 FL die from the brand of your choice, so if you have problems you have the manufacturers support. Set it up by the manufacturers instructions. I prefer Redding, but your choice may differ. I'm going to also assume your rifle is a factory variety chambered for 22-250 Remington, is that correct? If your rifle has an after market barrel, please post about it.

Also, just curious, what is with the 22-250AI die? Was it just part of the package you purchased or do you have a rifle chambered for the AI version, or something else?
 
Over the years I have ground down several sets of dies. They would not push the shoulder until I ground them down.
Amusingly, the thought of modifying the shell plate never occurred to me until reading this thread.
There are many roads to our destination.
 
Over the years I have ground down several sets of dies. They would not push the shoulder until I ground them down.
Amusingly, the thought of modifying the shell plate never occurred to me until reading this thread.
There are many roads to our destination.
It can be done either way. I actually prefer to take material from the die so I don't have to use a dedicated shell holder, in case one gets lost or whatever. Not a bad idea to use the same shell holder anyway but not typically necessary unless it's modified.
 
@DJD welcome to the forum. You said your purchased two dies, a 22-250 (modified) and a 22-250AI. You posted a photo of a case through the 22-250 die (modified) on the left and a case on the right through a 22-250 die non-modified. Nether are 22-250AI, so I'm assuming we are not discussing the AI die. If you have a 22-250 non-modified die, why not just use it?

At any rate, I would recommend as posted above, if you don't already have one, purchase a new 22-250 FL die from the brand of your choice, so if you have problems you have the manufacturers support. Set it up by the manufacturers instructions. I prefer Redding, but your choice may differ. I'm going to also assume your rifle is a factory variety chambered for 22-250 Remington, is that correct? If your rifle has an after market barrel, please post about it.

Also, just curious, what is with the 22-250AI die? Was it just part of the package you purchased or do you have a rifle chambered for the AI version, or something else?
Thanks for the welcome! I bought the AI dies because I have intentions of rebarreling my standard factory rifle in the near future. The set of dies I have for standard 22-250 is an old pacific chrome set I figured I'd upgrade since the price was what I get them for used at a local shop. I also have family that have standard 22-250 so it'll be used.
 
It can be done either way. I actually prefer to take material from the die so I don't have to use a dedicated shell holder, in case one gets lost or whatever. Not a bad idea to use the same shell holder anyway but not typically necessary unless it's modified.
I agree it can be done either way and I have done it both ways but I prefer dedicated shell holders and as a matter of a fact even if there not modified I have a shell holder in every set of dies with a note in the box what press I use them on in case I forget and the recipe I use. I rarely have to reset anything even if it’s years between loading that cartridge. I do laugh when someone can’t get shoulder bump and inevitably someone will mention Redding competition shell holders!….. there + sizes!.. the opposite of what you need!… and or they say follow die instructions, the instructions usually gives you about .010 bump!…. That doesn’t shorten brass life at all!?….
Wayne
 
I agree it can be done either way and I have done it both ways but I prefer dedicated shell holders and as a matter of a fact even if there not modified I have a shell holder in every set of dies with a note in the box what press I use them on in case I forget and the recipe I use. I rarely have to reset anything even if it’s years between loading that cartridge. I do laugh when someone can’t get shoulder bump and inevitably someone will mention Redding competition shell holders!….. there + sizes!.. the opposite of what you need!… and or they say follow die instructions, the instructions usually gives you about .010 bump!…. That doesn’t shorten brass life at all!?….
Wayne
I'm definitely with ya on the comp shell holders Wayne. Yes..it just doesn't work that way but I hear it often, too.
 
It does look like they were going for more shoulder bump. The easier and cheaper way would have been to grind the shell holder down by about 0.010. We do this all the time on wildcats.

Greg

A buddy of mine recently had this problem using a Forster press and Forster 223 dies. On that setup, it's easier to shave the base of the dies (the alternative is to grind the two halves of the universal shellholder things.) He hasn't moved on making a change yet; waiting to hear from Forster (or was, last I heard.)
 
That looks more like a .100" bump to me. No way in hell a newbie should be attempting to use that die. If I didn't know better I would have said that was a 6BR and a BRX.
 

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