Did I screw up really bad during a re-sizing step?

[1badbadger]

I just finished loading up a batch of .223 loads, and I realized when I re-sized the cases, I screwed the sizing die down 1 full turn after it touched the shell holder instead of 1/4 turn. I'm guessing I set the shoulder too far back when I did this. So, my questions are:

Are these rounds safe to shoot, or should I pull the bullets?

If I pull the bullets, is there a way to size this brass correctly, or should I just throw them away?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BoydAllen]

Order an attachment for your dial or digital caliper that you can use to measure bump. Hornady is selling one that used to be by Stoney Point, and Sinclair has a copy that they sell, which is well done. You need a way to measure bump.

 

[gambleone]

You will just form your cases back out when you shoot them. Bumping one quarter turn may even be too much. Like Boyd said, get a comparator that fits on your caliper so you can get an accurate measurment. Bought mine from Sinclair. I use two feeler gages under my die lock ring to measure bump.

 

[Mikem]

Assuming your using a F.L. sizing die, all it would have done is size them back to factory size. With a full turn, you most likely couldn't cam over the press, but the cases would be fine to shoot. Then they will be back to the fire formed size of your chamber.
Take the advice of the above posts, its a tool you will use often, and then you will know when and how much to move the shoulder back.
Mike.

 

[6BRinNZ]

hey, my 2c on my experience here. I am now using the Redding Instant indicator tool (RIID), along with the redding competition shell holder set to size my cases.

I don't know what one full turn would size a case to but with the RIID, I was able to tell that I was over sizing new brass (lapua) by 6 thou.

I measured all new brass using the RIID until I found the shortest to the datum, and then sized all the remaining to this same length, this ended up over sizing the brass. I did this because I figured it would be better to have all brass sized exactly the same before trimming for length. In hind sight probably a waste of time?

Once I discovered I was over sizing the brass I tested FPS and point of impact difference between brass fired once and sized 2 thou compared to new brass and sized 8 thou (oversized) and I couldn't detect any perceivable difference (this is out of a 6Br at 200yrds).

Shims are definitely a cheaper option than using the redding comp shell holder set to set the sizing for the brass.

Before you pull or throw the brass it would pay to measure how much they are bumped, as one full turn may not be oversizing to any conceivable difference.

 

[Winchester69]

If you have the die bottomed on the shell holder at 1/4 turn, another one, two or three turns will still have the die bottomed on the shell holder. All of the slack is out of the mechanism with any of the settings, and the die won't stretch. The cases have the same shoulder height.

 

[1badbadger]

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate the info. A comparator will be my next purchase.

To clear up how I did this, after the shellholder contacted the bottom of the die, I lowered the shellholder so I could turn the die down (supposed to 1/4 turn), but I spaced it and turned it down 1 full turn, mixing it up with the seating die (back it out 1 full turn after die hits top of case). I just got mixed up where I was supposed turn the die 1 full turn. ??? But I did not turn the die while it was bottomed out on the shell holder.

Beginner mistake.