im trying to full length size brass that is VERY tight in my chamber (savage model 16 .22-250) i can barely close the bolt. I screw my die in till it touches the shell holder when the ram is all the way up then lower the ram and turn it another 1/2 turn in. Its a lee die. But when i actually try to resize a case i cant get the shell holder to even touch the bottom of the die it seems like the case mouth is hitting up against the top of the die there is a very small gap between the shell holder and die and the ram stops solid and my cases are still very hard to chamber. My die and gun are clean so it cant be crud built up that causing this. Are the die dimensions wrong? Or am i doing something wrong?
what am i doing wrong? full length sizing question
- Thread starter hildy99
- Start date
1. Not to sound like a smart a**, but confirm you are using a .22-250 die and didn't mistakenly grab the wrong one. Also, you are using case lube?
2. How does your brass overall length compare to SAAMI maximum?
3. Do you have a piece of unfired brass you can run through the die to verify fit?
4. Do you have a comparator of some sort so you can check brass before and after sizing to see exactly what is happening to the case head to shoulder length?
5. When you run the brass into the die and see the gap between the shell holder and bottom of the die, is the ram at the top of the stroke? There was an article by M.L. McPherson in this month's Precision Shooting magazine regarding flex in the press and the resulting gap that you are seeing. A half-turn on the die ought to be enough to counter that condition.
6. Might check the overall length of the die and confirm with Lee it is correct and you don't have a die someone had ground off the nose for some reason to shorten it up.
HTH,
TAB
2. How does your brass overall length compare to SAAMI maximum?
3. Do you have a piece of unfired brass you can run through the die to verify fit?
4. Do you have a comparator of some sort so you can check brass before and after sizing to see exactly what is happening to the case head to shoulder length?
5. When you run the brass into the die and see the gap between the shell holder and bottom of the die, is the ram at the top of the stroke? There was an article by M.L. McPherson in this month's Precision Shooting magazine regarding flex in the press and the resulting gap that you are seeing. A half-turn on the die ought to be enough to counter that condition.
6. Might check the overall length of the die and confirm with Lee it is correct and you don't have a die someone had ground off the nose for some reason to shorten it up.
HTH,
TAB
If you can run the die all the way down to touch the shell holder then back off and give it a little more turn and when you run a case into the die and you have a gap between the shell holder and the case it sounds like you have either of two problems. One is that you have a LOT of slop in your press. The other is that you need to take your die apart and clean it really well and when you put the depriming rod assembly back in the die make sure that you do not have it sticking out the bottom too much. This assembly may be adjusted too long and it will bottom out on the bottom of the inside of the case and not allow the case to be sized all the way. I know that when these dies are designed for the assembly to push up and not break the depriming pin but your may be really tight.
I will answer your question one at a time. Thanks for the reply
1. Yes my die says .22-250 on it and I am using the rcbs lube pad. It takes minimal effort to run the case in and out of the die.
2. My Lyman reloading manual says the trim to length is 1.902 and I trimmed my cases to 1.901 so I'm already .001 shorter.
3. I have not ran I unfired piece of brass through the die I never thought of that but I do know never fired brass chambers in my gun just fine.
4. I do not have any tools to measure from the shoulder all I know is that they won't fit in my chamber.
5. I can run the die completely down to the last thead and run I case up into it and there is still a gap.
6. I bought the die new, I'm the only person who as ever owned it so I know it has not been modified but I guess I could still measure it and call lee to see if it's correct.
1. Yes my die says .22-250 on it and I am using the rcbs lube pad. It takes minimal effort to run the case in and out of the die.
2. My Lyman reloading manual says the trim to length is 1.902 and I trimmed my cases to 1.901 so I'm already .001 shorter.
3. I have not ran I unfired piece of brass through the die I never thought of that but I do know never fired brass chambers in my gun just fine.
4. I do not have any tools to measure from the shoulder all I know is that they won't fit in my chamber.
5. I can run the die completely down to the last thead and run I case up into it and there is still a gap.
6. I bought the die new, I'm the only person who as ever owned it so I know it has not been modified but I guess I could still measure it and call lee to see if it's correct.
Ok thanks ALOT guys I think it is flex in my press. (it's a lee classic turret) I tryed sizing a case in my lee hand held press that I totally forgot I had and after using that one the case fits in my chamber nicly. So is there anyway to correct press flex or do I just have to get a different one of higher quality?
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
You really need to invest in an attachment for your calipers that will allow you to set your shoulder bump accurately. This is not window dressing. If your die is on the large side, and your chamber happens to be small, you can end up pushing your case shoulders back too far, and that will lead to what is called an incipient separation, and eventually your cases will separate near the head. In the situation that I have described, using your rifle to gauge die setting will not tell you what you need to know to set the die properly.
MGYSGT
Silver $$ Contributor
Don't get too itchy on buying a new press. Trim your brass a little more. If store bought brass fits then resized brass should fit. I use the Lee turret press for some of my reloading and used to have a problem with 22-250. Turned out, if I trimmed 5 to 10 thousandth under everything worked just fine. Mine was a Savage. I just thought it was chambered with a short neck. Speaking of neck, did you check the seating depth of your bullet. Maybe your are jamming into the lands. If your die is crimping (I never crimp), mabey you are getting a bulge in the neck or somewhere. Don't remember if you said, but will a cartridge that has been resized fit in the gun with out any problems?
If so, then it is a seating or crimping problem.
Tom
If so, then it is a seating or crimping problem.
Tom
2506 said it right, expander is hitting bottom of the case!
What case lube are you using? Some lubes make sizing real hard. How many times has this brass been fired? Brass will work harden. See if you can find a friend that has the Wilson case Gauge to check your fired brass to look at all demensions including the shoulder, you could have a min. chamber in your gun. A shoulder bump gauge as sugested using your calipers are a must for setting dies.
I own a Redding turret press(T-7) and wouldn't think of FL sizing .22-250's with it. I use it for all my handgun reloading and use two single stage presses for my rifle caliber reloading. I am not saying they won't do it but as I service and align CNC Machine Tools for a living I cringe at the thought of stressing a center mounted casting with a big lever! 
I think you found the answer to your question.
I think you found the answer to your question.
I think Boyd has the most important advice: get some tools. You need to know two critical measurements: case headspace and base-to-ogive on a loaded round. The first measurement will allow you to measure the headspace on a fired case and the headspace on a sized case. This will not only help you to solve your current problem, but also allow you to adjust your press for optimum shoulder bump. The second measurement will help you determine how deep to seat. Without these tools your reloading is guess work and makes a fairly safe activity into a less safe activity.
Here's what you need: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=34014/Product/Sinclair-Insert-Style-Bullet-Comparator
Get this with a bump gage insert and bullet comparator for your cartridge(s).
Here's what you need: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=34014/Product/Sinclair-Insert-Style-Bullet-Comparator
Get this with a bump gage insert and bullet comparator for your cartridge(s).
Was the cases that your resizing originally fired in the rifle that your trying to size them for. If not that's most likely your problem and your headspace is incorrect. As Boyd Allen tried to tell you, ya need to invest in a headspace gauge tool. Hornady make a inexpensive one that come with a 5 bushing and a compactor body that fits on your calipers which will allow you to set your die up properly so that your only pushing the shoulder of your brass back .001 to .002 to active necessary clearance. Pushing it back to far can l lead to case separation. And yes that is dangerous! Without a headspace tool of some sort your just guessing and will most likely end up over working your brass and shortening it's life.
Look at item #HK-66 Hornady headspace gauge for 36.95 at Sinclair
RJ
Look at item #HK-66 Hornady headspace gauge for 36.95 at Sinclair
RJ
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