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Did I get ripped in on my 2013 purchase??

***auto correct, title should say "ripped off"

A few months ago I picked up a used Anschutz 2013BR on this sight. I knew it was used but now I am seeing some red flags.... I have tested 9 different lots of eley tenX and eley match ammo. It seems that all ammo is grouping 1.5" at 100yrds. Is that normal and I just have not found the magic lot #?

I was not told the stock was bedded (I don't think they come that way) and other than the bottom of the action there is a 1/8" gap around the action.

It might be my shooting but I do not believe so, I am using a Seb Neo rest with a nightforce scope, I shoot consistent .3" groups with this scope and rest on other rifles.

Thanks for any input
 
***auto correct, title should say "ripped off"

A few months ago I picked up a used Anschutz 2013BR on this sight. I knew it was used but now I am seeing some red flags.... I have tested 9 different lots of eley tenX and eley match ammo. It seems that all ammo is grouping 1.5" at 100yrds. Is that normal and I just have not found the magic lot #?

I was not told the stock was bedded (I don't think they come that way) and other than the bottom of the action there is a 1/8" gap around the action.

It might be my shooting but I do not believe so, I am using a Seb Neo rest with a nightforce scope, I shoot consistent .3" groups with this scope and rest on other rifles.

Thanks for any input


One might think that an Anschutz would do better, but the reality is that you may have not found the ammo it likes. My 1712 & 1710 both will do .75 with certain lots of SK Standard Plus and Rifle Match pretty regularly, but I can't do that every 5 shot group. Occasionally they will grow to 1 1/2".

Maybe this particular rifle would benefit from bedding. Are you shooting with flags? It's entirely possible errant winds would have an impact (no pun intended) on group size.
Does this rifle like to be held firm? or a light touch?

As far as getting "ripped off", that's between you and the seller. A strong phrase when there are many variables to consider.
 
I was using flags today, the previous owner did bed it I'm just not sure if it was done correctly?? If my groups were mainly horizontal I might chalk it up to wind but vertical seems to be worse. I'm just trying to see if I need to scrap the stock and get something new, from what I see this stock has had a lot of aftermarket work.
 
***auto correct, title should say "ripped off"

A few months ago I picked up a used Anschutz 2013BR on this sight. I knew it was used but now I am seeing some red flags.... I have tested 9 different lots of eley tenX and eley match ammo. It seems that all ammo is grouping 1.5" at 100yrds. Is that normal and I just have not found the magic lot #?

I was not told the stock was bedded (I don't think they come that way) and other than the bottom of the action there is a 1/8" gap around the action.

It might be my shooting but I do not believe so, I am using a Seb Neo rest with a nightforce scope, I shoot consistent .3" groups with this scope and rest on other rifles.

Thanks for any input
The 2013 is tougher to get bedded correctly than a standard 54 match action. It uses a 4 screw system from the factory. The bottom of the 2013 action is squared. The 54 uses a 2 screw system and is round. The round actions are easier to bed and evenly torque. I owned a 2013 that shot well but was very finicky about action torque. I believe the 2013 manual explains the 4 screw system and how to torque it to Anschutz's specs. Since yours has been bedded their torque specs and information may not work.
 
Seeing that your new to rimfire , many variables apply , not usually associated with centerfire BR . As mentioned action torque , shooter style , free recoil or hard / little hold , wind flags , many many flags , and very sensitive to ammo and specific ammo lots , bore conditioning , carbon ring , cleaning or not cleaning completely . You see a lot of tuners used for good reasons on rimfire . Did I mention flags .
Good luck
Ps I forgot to mention Parallax ( spelling , no coffee yet )
 
The 2013 is tougher to get bedded correctly than a standard 54 match action. It uses a 4 screw system from the factory. The bottom of the 2013 action is squared. The 54 uses a 2 screw system and is round. The round actions are easier to bed and evenly torque. I owned a 2013 that shot well but was very finicky about action torque. I believe the 2013 manual explains the 4 screw system and how to torque it to Anschutz's specs. Since yours has been bedded their torque specs and information may not work.

I have re-torqued the action twice according the manual with no improvement. This leading me to believe it was bedded poorly. I should of asked the seller if he had ever messed with it before I purchased it.
 
I have re-torqued the action twice according the manual with no improvement. This leading me to believe it was bedded poorly. I should of asked the seller if he had ever messed with it before I purchased it.
Are you using their torquing values, or are you playing around with different values? Have you tried shooting five and making a change, shoot five more and continue till you see a major improvement?
 
Rimfire rifles are well known for being picky about ammo, torque value settings on the action, bedding, etc. It's a process of elimination or trial & error method to find what each and every gun likes. Torquing the front action screw(s) may help or hurt, just like the rear ones may or may not help. I can't speak on the bedding process as I've never done it, just that someguns have improved with it.

Some rimfires like/prefer less torque than factory spec, some more. What my MPR 64 likes in ammo, yours may or may not. Some rimfires don't like to be cleaned but every 500+ rounds, some like/prefer to be cleaned more often.

Trying everything to get a gun to shoot to your expectations is part of the journey, the challenge, etc. If you don't want to take the trip, don't buy used. But on a brand new in the box 22 rimfire, it's still the same journey, the process of elimination to improve the groups.
 
Let the buyer beware. There's a reason the guy was selling. Could be everything was done right and it just won't shoot. If I have a gun that I am not happy with I do just that.. While this may or may not be in your case, it is something to consider.. I have a 22 Hornet that wouldn't shoot and had other issues. I bought it new. . Bite the bullet and sent it off. Problem solved. Not a problem now just an expense.
 
2 cents here.

I brought a Brand new 1913 Barreled Action complete a few yeas back . I was shooting Indoor Small Bore.
I could never get it to shoot .... Went back to my 1972 1413 and never looked back.
I sold for way less than I had in it.
It is like buying a Car ! you can get a Monday Morning Hang Over.
 
Did the seller provide you with any info on the rifle's accuracy up front?
Did you ask?
He did disclose that it was bedded (not in factory configuration). Did you ask why?
Did you ask what ammo was performing best for the seller?
It's actually possible that the rifle NEVER shot well and the bedding was an attempt to improve it.
Lastly, did you pay the going rate for a 2013? More or less?
 
"All Buyers and Sellers--Please Read this Article on How to Avoid Disputes".

I am not trying to go after the seller i know it is a risk when buying used. I am just trying to figure out if this gun is worth putting any more effort in. I would love to know some real world groups other people are getting with stock 2013BRs
 
Whether you have a 100 year old .22 that still shoots dime size groups at 100 or last years newest marvel that doesn't preform up to expectations, .22 rifles sometimes need to be barreled. They don't last forever and sometimes, they didn't start off shooting competitive. Put a new barrel on it and don't look back.
 
I have a CZ 455 that will not shoot any of the Eley Ammo. It does like "Federal Ultra Match" Ammo. With the 22 LR some days it shoots great and some days it doesn't. I've tried shooting long range out to 200 yards. If you have a change in temperature and humidity, your POI changes considerably. Good luck!
 
I own a 2013 since 2002 and it is the best I've ever had.
You do not mention any of the following:
Type of stock, i.e. wood or aluminium.
Barrel lenght and Brand, it can be 50 cm or 69 cm, Anschutz/any other
Have you deeply cleaned the barrel?

For you to know
Make your tests in the 50 yard range. You will have time later to shoot at a longer distance.
In wooden stock you shouldn't go above 5Nm torque, for alu make it 6Nm.
If it is wood with pillars, take it as if it were alu.
Barrel must be cleaned with a bronze brush, one way pass, until you see no more light dust when the brush exits the muzzle. Pay close attention to the dust and kkep on passing -one way- until you see none.
Don't slow down when exiting the brush, it may minimize the dust.
Check only one type of ammo at the time. Enough shots to foul the barrel and then test for accuracy.
Only one felt pad after each shooting session, right away hot barrel, just to make sure that all powder residual is gone. Do not insist with cleaning or the wax will go away, and you need it there.
Hopefully, next session will start with an erratic shot, maybe two, but the rest will group like hell, if you keep same brand an ammo lot.
When you change ammo -brand or lot- first 10 or more shots will behave as the previous one.
It will slowly go to the new ammo performance. The reason is the wax change in the barrel.
You will not have a right performance until all the wax is fully replaced with the new formula.
Mine goes perfect with R50 in cold weather. I only use ELEY TENEX in hot weather. Anyway, yours can be different.

Please tell us the date of manufacture of your 2013 and the barrel lenght as well as the type of stock.
I will follow this post to keep an eye on your development.
 
How about nice simple, common sense, " first things first " before all the experts drive you nuts.
First off, as stated do everything at 50 yards. 100 is great doing further testing on a proven platform....you are not there yet.
Second, you got a nice gun....used.
Did you clean it well, do you know how? Do not assume the previous owner practices proper barrel cleaning procedures.
If you have access to a borescope, it is also not a bad idea to check and see if the prior guy damaged the bore or crown. if it's the crown, it's fixable, if it's the barrel.....you're headed for a new one.
More than a few guys are heavy handed with a cleaning rod.
If this stuff checks out, how are you shooting, cleaning? Are you just shooting all this ammo on top of each other or cleaning between brands/lots?
 
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