Developing a load for big calibres

[Hamo]

Update:

Got a new triggertech trigger. It is very nice - I was going to go for a timney but thought I'd give it a try. Very interesting trigger, a rolling sear. Feels like glass breaking. I'm happy - only complaint is that the bolt release is stiff and tends to jam down requiring a fingernail under it to pull it back down. Not a major problem and hopefully it will loosen up a tad


Also during the trigger change I stripped the entire rifle. The MDT stock has a V block style bedding system. Interestingly the front of the action had two parallel witness marks where the bedding sat. The recoil lug had a nice witness mark where it was making good contact. However, the rear of the action had nothing, except there were two set screws that protruded from the rear left hand side of the receiver - I assume that these were for open sights. These set screws had the top black coating stripped and a matching set of marks on the MDT stock. Looks like the few thou they were protruding was rubbing inside the tube stock and preventing the receiver from being tight against the action.

Bedding screws that I torqued down nicely had come loose too. They are now in with threadlocker

Got an MDT padded butt pad - very soft.

Also got a great deal on some factory ammo - with good brass to reload. Box says federal but its stamped with the lapua logo so hoping its that quality lapua brass

Hopefully the minor tweeks above will give me that group size im after. So far best is about 1.6 MOA and thats disappointing. Also the loads looked a bit hot so I was hoping for some better results with the factory ammo - still has some big dimples around th primer strike. Might have to consider bushing the firing pin. A PTG bolt would be my ideal addition but they are unobtainable in Australia and crazy expensive.

I'm going to shoot again hopefully this weekend so fingers crossed i get some better results.

 

[Bart B.]

Sierra Bullets' load recommendations for best accuracy with their bullets have proved very good over the years. They're tested in several rifles to get good data. Components used for their data:
Case Lapua
Trim-to Length 2.714"
Primer Fed 215

.

 

[Art Dirindin]

I'm sure you have a good muzzle brake. Another way to save your shoulder is with a "Limbsaver" pad. It takes about half the noticeable recoil out of my 12 gauge with 3" magnum slugs. A push vs a slap.

I second the Limb Saver Air Tech recoil pad. My T3 in 300wsm with optics weighs 7.3lbs and after I installed the LS pad no doubt in my mind it significantly reduced felt recoil. Now I can easily shoot 30 or more rounds from the bench with little discomfort.

 

[Zero333]

RL-33
300 smk
Fed-215/215m
Test from 93 to 98 grains.

You'll either find a node at the lower end and one at the higher end... but just as likely you might find one solid node in the middle. Thus why I can't tell you what will work in your rifle. Too many variables.

Develop the load with the rifle set up the same way you intend to shoot it day in day out.

 

[Rsadams]

I'm sure you have a good muzzle brake. Another way to save your shoulder is with a "Limbsaver" pad. It takes about half the noticeable recoil out of my 12 gauge with 3" magnum slugs. A push vs a slap.

This is so true.. I was just out the other day and a guy just got a .338 and was showing me the bruise on his shoulder.. It was a perfect imprint of the butt plate.. I let him borrow a limbsaver slip on I keep in my range bag as a spare.. He loved it , I would bet money he has one now.. My local wallyworld has them for $ 19.99 I have the custom fit pad on my Mossberg short barrel 12guage00 buckshot gun which kicks like a mule.. I have a bad shoulder and I recommend there airtech highly..

 

[Kiwi Greg]

ADI AR2225 is the way forward with the 300s in Aussie, make sure you have a decent brake, Terminator, & Lapua brass with Fed 215s

As others have said I can't stress the brake enough, 300s in a Lapua Mag will beat you up.

 

[Twoboxer]

For my 338LM I opted for a different approach . . . a Past Magnum Plus Recoil Pad. Plavix + aspirin + 40 rounds of 300gr Bergers at 2795fps and no bruising whatsoever.

 

[SierraCJ5]

RL-33
300 smk
Fed-215/215m
Test from 93 to 98 grains.

You'll either find a node at the lower end and one at the higher end... but just as likely you might find one solid node in the middle. Thus why I can't tell you what will work in your rifle. Too many variables.

Develop the load with the rifle set up the same way you intend to shoot it day in day out.

Excellent advice here. Several of us shoot 338 LM prone for LR targets and use this recipe except with a 300g Berger. We all settled on the "high" node.

We shoot these 338s like they were 22LR gallery guns, lots of rounds with no discomfort at all. Swapping an ineffective brake for the APA Fat Bastard brake has made difficult rifles easy to handle. Make sure you have an efficient brake.

During load development there are no free rides; be prepared to shoot any quantity required to properly identify a load. A large caliber rifle is no different than a 6BR. All require adequate diligence to identify the correct load combination. Also, don't be afraid to toss an under performing barrel, it's easy to waste money on load testing with a junk barrel or one that is past it's prime.

 

[J. Gunz]

I've loaded a lot for the 338 lm the best loads that have worked in 4 different 338 lm were:
250 smk
Retumbo 95.0 gr
Lapua brass
federal 215 GM
OAL 3.725

300 smk
Retumbo 90.5 gr
Lapua brass
Winchester magnum rifle primers
OAL 3.710

Hi everyone.

I have wanted a .338 lapua for a long, long time. Years in fact. I finally found a great deal on a used 338 lap (6 grand new, second hand $2500 in great condition), and couldn't resist. I know the 338 lap shoots $5 bills so I want to try and minimise cost. Reloading is my only option and I managed to get some very cheap once fired brass which should do well.

I regularly shoot up to 1000 yards with my .308 - I have several 308's and I can usually get a good load developed in an afternoon. Typically I pick my projectile (The type of target shooting I do here only allows a few different types, so that's an easy choice). Dial in my powder in 0.5 grain increments, and shoot a string of 5 round groups with each load. I pick the best one, and then play with the seating depth if i'm still not happy with the groups. In all honesty though I have never found any of my rifles to be too fussy with the seating depth, and factory seating depth when I measure varies wildly, but my target rifle still shoots factory loads great - It shoots my developped loads which are a grain hotter much nicer though.

Now burning through 50 - 100 handloads of .308 in an afternoon is not too bad, but doing the same for the .338 will be a pain in my wallet and my shoulder. Does anyone have tips for developing a load for the .338? would I be better off going for 1 grain increments, playing with different powders, bullet weights etc. I intend on starting with a known load and trying to work around that. I think a 250 grain pill would be a nice starting point, realistically I can't shoot more than 1000 yards so getting the extra weight at 12-1500 yards isn't really a problem.

 

[300_whisper]

Hamo, can you post pictures of your rifle? I had a .338 MLR and it had a 23 inch barrel!! It was advertised by Remington as 25.25 with the brake. I was pretty upset. Also, the barrel was scoped by my smith and it had a lot of machining marks and freebore. I scraped it and did a full custom build on the receiver with a 30 inch shilen barrel. I wouldn't waste load development without checking all possible flaws in the rifle.

 

[jlow]

Excellent advice here. Several of us shoot 338 LM prone for LR targets and use this recipe except with a 300g Berger. We all settled on the "high" node.

We shoot these 338s like they were 22LR gallery guns, lots of rounds with no discomfort at all. Swapping an ineffective brake for the APA Fat Bastard brake has made difficult rifles easy to handle. Make sure you have an efficient brake.

During load development there are no free rides; be prepared to shoot any quantity required to properly identify a load. A large caliber rifle is no different than a 6BR. All require adequate diligence to identify the correct load combination. Also, don't be afraid to toss an under performing barrel, it's easy to waste money on load testing with a junk barrel or one that is past it's prime.

I don't know, I just find it hard to believe that a 338 shoots like a 22LR. The 22LR that I have shot are like squirrel farts compared to my .308 and .260Rem and those to me are relatively tame but no 22LR. I have shot a .338LM, an AI PSR with a decent AI brake shooting Lapua Scena factory ammo with the 300 grain bullets. Making hits out to 1850 yards on steel but the gun was a real butt kicker but a 22LR it was absolutely not. The APA brake works decent but hell, it is louder than hell and in no way would it make a 338LM and 22LR.....

 

[SierraCJ5]

I don't know, I just find it hard to believe that a 338 shoots like a 22LR. The 22LR that I have shot are like squirrel farts compared to my .308 and .260Rem and those to me are relatively tame but no 22LR. I have shot a .338LM, an AI PSR with a decent AI brake shooting Lapua Scena factory ammo with the 300 grain bullets. Making hits out to 1850 yards on steel but the gun was a real butt kicker but a 22LR it was absolutely not. The APA brake works decent but hell, it is louder than hell and in no way would it make a 338LM and 22LR.....

I never said the 338 LM handles like a 22 LR. I said we shoot them like they are 22LRs, meaning high round counts with no regard to recoil. Time and interest are the limiting factors, not recoil or physical discomfort.

We own 338 LMs. They're not borrowed. We shoot on private property to 2000+ yds as frequently as we desire. We're fortunate to have these opportunities and we'd be foolish to let an improperly setup ELR rifle limit our enjoyment. 30" bull profile barrels with a good brake make this possible.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . . 30" bull profile barrels with a good brake make this possible.

A 15lb rifle definitely helps with the recoil lol.

ETA: One of the good things about shooting 338LM is it made my 30-06 a joy to shoot

 

[Hamo]

Sorry for the massively late reply. Thanks for all the advice.

RL33 is impossible to get here

We have an equivelant to Retumbo that is readily available.
I've tried 300, 250 and 225 grain pills, only the 250's seem to shoot

90 grains of AR2225, CCI magnum match primers, Ruag brass, and 250 grain sierras and I'm getting close
120m 5 shots 1 hole. Measures about 1/2" - for a factory Remington I'm happy with this and hopefully I can improve a little. It was at 130 yards (not 100)



I find it interesting everyone is complaining about the recoil - yes, this thing kicks a lot, a hell of a lot - but in all honesty I find that the fun.

300 whisper I'll post a pic tomorrow when I get home from work.

 

[Hamo]

had a weekend at the old mans farm. From 300m I was nailing a 6" gong every time - it was bolted to a pine frame, and every shot would spin it over the frame. Good fun.

I decided to move to the 3" gong. One shot and I couldn't see it through the scope. When I got to the target it had split the pine frame in two, torn off the 3" coachbolts holding it to the pine frame, and the target was no where to be seen. After 15 minutes of looking, I found the target. It had been thrown 30 yards behnd the target, and over a 20 foot berm of dirt I use as a backstop. The chain links which I welded to the gong had been bent.

To put it in perspective the .22-250 I had used earlier would must make it move a little from 300m. One shot from the .338 lap eneded our gong shooting for the day.

Hell of a round. Power is insane.

 

[gary0529]

I can save you some time and money. Get reloader 33 and don't bother with anything else powder wise. It is made to work with the 338 and fits it so much better than the others it is light years ahead. This is coming from a guy that has 16lbs of retumbo, 16lbs of US869 , and 20lbs of WC 872, all the go to powders of big magnum cartridges in the past.

+1 on R-33 I have tried H1000, US869 and Retumbo with Sierra 300 gr. BTHP and was not able to get things to settle on a workable load that delivered what i needed in accuracy. That was using Lapua and norma brass all properly prepped . Now understand that the rifle is an AR-30 in .338LM and not a heavy barreled 20# rig so I am not looking for 1/2 MOA at 1000 but still I expect something aside from a "pattern" The R-33 does better than the others tried.

If you don't really really push the pressures you should be able to get 5 or 6 reloading from good brass and buying the bullets in larger quantities you can get the cost per trigger pull down around $2.50 Not exactly cheap but at a price I can live with.

Gary

 

[onelastshot]

For my 338 I first decided on which bullet I wanted to use and then read my reloading manuals; reloading manuals such as Speer highlight which load (Powder) they found to be best given the bullet you are using. I started with their recommendation as to powder and shot 3 shot groups going up .5 increments. Once I found a node, I went to 5 shot groups.

For the 338 and other medium bore rifles I found a past recoil pad to be invaluable. I can't shoot a box or two of ammo without some type of shoulder protection. I also start by touching the lands and work my way backwards once I've chosen a powder.