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Decided to build my 1st custom. Advice?

For 300 yards, build a straight 6BR with a no turn neck. You could go 10 twist and limit yourself to mid weight bullets (I like the Berger 90 grain boat tail) or you could go 8 twist and have the flexibility to shoot the 105 grain bullets. 9 twist is even more of a bastard twist than 1:10.... All of the above assumes correct freebore for the bullet you intend to shoot. You want to keep the pressure ring above the donut.

Forget about a 20 MOA rail at 300. You are creating the reverse of the problem the rail is designed to correct.

I’d go with a 3” wide flatbottom stock. Put a rail system in it so that you can use your bipod when you want. If you have the option, I’d build the forearm 2-4” longer than normal.

If you dont have any weight or profile limits, I’d just get a 1.25” straight cylinder. Limit it to 28” so that it’ll fit into an inexpensive hard case. You will have to put some weight in the back to get the balance right (right at the front of the action...ish).

I like my NF Competition scopes, but you could pick up a NF 12-42 BR model for a good price. If you don’t mind a fixed power, you can pick up Leupold 45x45s for a good price. There is one more variable in a decent price range, but I’m having a senior moment....
 
Thanks to everyone! I really appreciate the leads on gunsmiths. Do you guys think it is valuable to stay somewhat "local" for a gunsmith? Or is it ultimately unimportant?

You would have to define a budget... The discussion is too open ended...

I would shoot either a 6BR/6BRA (my choice), a 6PPC, or a 6 Grendel. 13 twist for Barts bullets in the 68 grain range ;)

I don't really have much of a budget in mind. Eyebrows from a certain important person I live with would raise if it reached 5k.

You must REALLY like to play in the wind given your choice of cartridge.

Why would a 6 BR cost any more?

Bullets for 6mm are in the range of 0.28 each. 22 match bullets are down in the 0.18 range. That combined with the additional powder (18gns for the FB) adds up.

You didn't mention where the reamer would come from and with the rest of your program it's probably where you should start. Build some dummy rounds and send them to Dave Kiff. He'll grind you a reamer - nothing fancy - fixed pilot will do. While you're waiting scrounge up a used Savage varmint model. Doesn't have to be in great shape. Send the reamer to McGowen and have them chamber a barrel. Screw it onto the Savage and shoot 69 SMK's out of a Fireball for a while before you invest several thousand dollars.

Good hearing protection is cheap. The cost of components is minimal compared to what you're looking at spending on a custom gun. Get the Fireball/heavy bullet thing out of your system before it's costs you a lot of money to be disappointed.

Greg Tannel has a whole list of reamers that he already has, and the 221 is on that list. That's about as far as I had considered the reamers. I do like the idea of starting with a factory rifle to play with, given that I expect to wait a year or more to get the rifle built.

I use the highest rated passive muffs that I could find. Ear plugs are a no-go due to medical issues with my ear canals. Even still, with all the best, you're still getting hit with ~120dB for a fraction of a second with large centerfire rifles. Over time, that causes hearing loss. If I can achieve the same enjoyment and use out of a cartridge that creates less noise, and uses less material (smaller bullets, less powder) then I view that as a responsible choice.
 
Looks like your mind is made up on the little fireball. I know mine is one of the loudest rifles i have (not near as loud as a 30carb blackhawk) but thats not the point. Choose your gunsmith based on service and actual experience. Use one you have to ship to so youre not tempted into going by to “visit”. Do a search on them so you dont get one of the runarounds then a year from now everybody says “ahh yes you shouldnt have used him”
 
Looks like your mind is made up on the little fireball. I know mine is one of the loudest rifles i have (not near as loud as a 30carb blackhawk) but thats not the point. Choose your gunsmith based on service and actual experience. Use one you have to ship to so youre not tempted into going by to “visit”. Do a search on them so you dont get one of the runarounds then a year from now everybody says “ahh yes you shouldnt have used him”

Is your fireball a pistol? I had been reading that it is much quieter than even a 223 in a full length rifle but have no first-hand experience. The commenters had 20 and 22" barrels on bolt riffles.
 
I use the highest rated passive muffs that I could find. Ear plugs are a no-go due to medical issues with my ear canals. Even still, with all the best, you're still getting hit with ~120dB for a fraction of a second with large centerfire rifles. Over time, that causes hearing loss. If I can achieve the same enjoyment and use out of a cartridge that creates less noise, and uses less material (smaller bullets, less powder) then I view that as a responsible choice.

Less noise is relative. Have you shot a 221 Fireball or a .17 Fireball? In my experience, they are LOUD. Some bystanders claim they are louder than larger calibers. Having said that, if you do this long enough, you WILL have hearing loss.
 
So I've heard several negative comments about the BAT S. Is the B in a 1.35round a better buy? I'm hearing everyone on the integral rail and lug: it seemed like a nice thing to have (less individual parts and pieces is more reliable), but it's also $300 extra and requires the larger 1.4 octagon action.

Boy, there's a lot of heat with the fireball (:) haha, see what I did there?). I knew it was a slightly more obscure choice, but didn't think folks would be so opposed. A nice efficient design with lapua brass readily available. It's the 6BR of 22s. I also thought about going with a triple deuce, since it is a known and proven performer.

I've got a semi-custom 22-250, built on a trued Remington from the 80s. It's wearing the 4th barrel now and I feel the end coming. I'm pretty done with the 22-250 and was thinking that rifle would be re-barreled to a 6BR. The idea behind this gun was that I do not have a very nice rifle on the 378 bolt face that I can use to play with the smaller options.
 
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It amazes me how many replies you've gotten trying to steer you away from ur idea. I'm a huge fan of fireball rifles. I think u would be better off with one using 40 or 50 grain pills. That and 16 grains of little gun make for great accuracy. The more velocity the less wind affect. I've stoned coyote at 350 yards with 40gr Blitzkings. A fairly quiet rifle with a 22" barrel and even more so with a 28". I've got an excellent reamer and could build u a rifle. I would suggest a Panda , sent to Alex Wheeler for his magic treatment, a LV profile barrel and a Jewell. Doing your own stock you could easily get in 4 under $3,000.
 
So I've heard several negative comments about the BAT S. Is the B in a 1.35round a better buy? I'm hearing everyone on the integral rail and lug: it seemed like a nice thing to have (less individual parts and pieces is more reliable), but it's also $300 extra and requires the larger 1.4 octagon action.

Boy, there's a lot of heat with the fireball :)) haha, see what I did there?). I knew it was a slightly more obscure choice, but didn't think folks would be so opposed. A nice efficient design with lapua brass readily available. It's the 6BR of 22s. I also thought about going with a triple deuce, since it is a known and proven performer.

I've got a semi-custom 22-250, built on a trued Remington from the 80s. It's wearing the 4th barrel now and I feel the end coming. I'm pretty done with the 22-250 and was thinking that rifle would be re-barreled to a 6BR. The idea behind this gun was that I do not have a very nice rifle on the 378 bolt face that I can use to play with the smaller options.
Not any more.B.jpg
 
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Why reinvent the wheel? For what you've listed just get a nice 223 build. 20 - 26in 8 twist 223rem and you're all set. You could shoot 55-80gr bullets no problem. Brass is readily available and if you want it quieter add a suppressor. In a pinch you could even buy ammo off the shelf at any Wally World or sporting goods store.
 
A fireball is quieter than a 223 assuming same barrel length. Very long barrel life too. With these attributes you give away some performance.
 
If you want noise attenuation, the obvious solution is suppressor. That way, you could pick the cartridge that you wanted for performance vs how loud it is.
 
I refuse to play the Tax stamp scam. I'd love to have a suppressor, but the cost is prohibitive not to mention my strong objections to the way that and reasons why they are restricted :mad:. Could rant all day long about this topic. I'll put the extra grand into better equipment until suppressors are available freely without government involvement; the way that they should be.
 
if you are not averse to a wildcat a Vartarg could be the perfect solution. Extremely accurate, low noise and recoil as well as long barrel lifelife.

I really like the vartarg, but tooling up for it makes me 2nd guess it. I've got all my pilots, reamers, brushes and whatnot for 22. I'd need a new cleaning rod for a 20 too. I'm just not sure I'm ready yet. I guess it is ultimately a small cost; maybe 100 bucks. It's on my mind, particularly as a potential barrel for this rifle down the road, if nothing else! I also was thinking about the 17 Mach 4. I'm liking the catchy names: Fireball, Mach 4.... what can I say, I'm a sucker for a good name. I wish remington had been a bit more interested in actually, you know, supporting it and making it successful.
 
Hi everyone! I've decided that I want to take the plunge and commission my first custom rifle and was hoping for some advice! Almost everyone learns something important with a big purchase like this. Little things that they wish they had done, mistakes or happy accidents that came from their build. I'd really appreciate any wisdom you can share!

Backstory: I bought a RPR in 6.5 creedmoor, got super lucky, and won the factory gun lottery; it's very accurate.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/how-to-train-advise-me-on-how-to-get-better-faster.3954107/
But in the process I discovered that I don't much care for walking to distant targets and have been having a blast shooting at ~300yards. Well I don't much need to be shooting anything near as heavy duty as a 6.5 creedmoor for that (which I view as a 1300yrd round) This spawned this idea:
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/221-fireball-and-69gn-class-of-bullets.3956949/
A 221 fireball shooting very affordable 69gn class of match bullets! Minimal powder, less noise and recoil and cost, and really attractive ballistics to my eye. I like working with the wind, but I want to clearly see my bullet holes to judge the next shots because I largely shoot alone. I think the 300-400 yard range is what the middle-high end scopes can clearly resolve in most conditions (Vortex GE and similar) and it is the most comfortable distance I've found for shooting at my favorite spot. The wind pushes things around, but groups remain under 2inches, so the target I carry out can be reasonably small and still have a lot of dots (less trips to the target), etc.

How important is it to choose a gunsmith near you? I'm in Colorado, a bit north of Denver and the only big-name gunsmith I know of in Colorado is Greg Tannel. I'd be happy to work with him, and I could go visit him in person, but it also seems like he is a very busy guy. Suggestions?

Here's what I'm interested in building:
  • BAT S, RB, DP, 1.4 Octagon with integral lug and 20MOA picatinny rail.
  • 1:9 twist 22 barrel finished at perhaps 30" with a MTU or similar contour. No real brand preference (gunsmiths's choice?) 221 Fireball throated for dummy rounds I'll make.
  • Jewell or Bix'n'Andy (gunsmith's choice?) set somewhere sub 6oz.
  • I'll fit and finish my own stock. I enjoy working with wood, and strongly prefer it for guns, so it'll be a lovely piece of hardwood or a laminate if I decide the hardwood is too expensive. I'm thinking of something pretty traditional in shape. It will likely wear a bipod and be used with a rear bag although I've been considering moving to a rest and more benchrest style stock.

Dan Doweling. I believe in Arvada. Bench rest smith.
 
Thanks to everyone! I really appreciate the leads on gunsmiths. Do you guys think it is valuable to stay somewhat "local" for a gunsmith? Or is it ultimately unimportant?



I don't really have much of a budget in mind. Eyebrows from a certain important person I live with would raise if it reached 5k.



Bullets for 6mm are in the range of 0.28 each. 22 match bullets are down in the 0.18 range. That combined with the additional powder (18gns for the FB) adds up.



Greg Tannel has a whole list of reamers that he already has, and the 221 is on that list. That's about as far as I had considered the reamers. I do like the idea of starting with a factory rifle to play with, given that I expect to wait a year or more to get the rifle built.

I use the highest rated passive muffs that I could find. Ear plugs are a no-go due to medical issues with my ear canals. Even still, with all the best, you're still getting hit with ~120dB for a fraction of a second with large centerfire rifles. Over time, that causes hearing loss. If I can achieve the same enjoyment and use out of a cartridge that creates less noise, and uses less material (smaller bullets, less powder) then I view that as a responsible choice.


Stay local if possible. I have hard case that has many frequent flyer miles accumulated.
 
Got a retired buddy that runs a XP100 with a custom barrel in 221 Fireball. That damn pistol puts a lot of rifles to shame. He campaigned benchrest with a rifle in 221 Fireball for years. I would go with it after seeing what that little cartridge is capable of.
 

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