I have seen threads like this that were cut on a machine that had problems with the half-nut not engaging properly... the dovetail that controlled the up and down sliding of the half-nut was loose..due to a stripped out screw.. check the half nut and engagement closely...
I have seen threads like this that were cut on a machine that had problems with the half-nut not engaging properly... the dovetail that controlled the up and down sliding of the half-nut was loose..due to a stripped out screw.. check the half nut and engagement closely...
mram10
Eww, thank you. I’ll go check it out. Part of the problem was I didn’t have it fully engaged. I noticed a different feel in the handle when it was correct. Got that part down now.
Someoldguy
Nope. I don't have a gun shop.
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Someoldguy
No apology necessary. But thank you all the same.
Gene Your probably right its just how I do it and makes me feel better hahah, just something I do so I slow down and don't try and rush it. I'm no pro just a self taught garage warrior was just trying to help the guy out. Seem like he had some serious issues going on here and looks likes he is getting them slowly figured out. I learned to thread on a Cheap POS lathe. Then moved on to a better Taiwan lathe which greatly improved my work and knowledge. I'm actually looking for a new lathe but garage space is limited so we will see.
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Rich S
Silver $$ Contributor
Once your satisfied with the basics of turning faving and threading, Id recommend getting some reference material if you dont have it. The books I bought that I liked most are:
Centerfire rifle accuracy by W Hamby Clark. He goes into good detail with photos for setting up a rifle including threading and chambering.
The complete illustrated guide to precision rifle barrel fitting by Jon Hinnant. He provides a lot of set up detail and information to make your own tooling.
The book of rifle accuracy by Tony Boyer.
And of course the PDF in the advanced gunsmithing section of this site
There is a ton of information out there but for me the above covered most of what I've seen.
Centerfire rifle accuracy by W Hamby Clark. He goes into good detail with photos for setting up a rifle including threading and chambering.
The complete illustrated guide to precision rifle barrel fitting by Jon Hinnant. He provides a lot of set up detail and information to make your own tooling.
The book of rifle accuracy by Tony Boyer.
And of course the PDF in the advanced gunsmithing section of this site
There is a ton of information out there but for me the above covered most of what I've seen.
mram10
Rich, thanks. I will check those out. Threading is going much better now. Give me some good reading on road trips
mram10
Christmas Day update. Machines the new qctp threaded holder. Works great. .010 slop and locks tight.
Here is the last barrel scrap I did. One side of hss threading tool was a bit dull and not enough angle. Cut shank too far to 1.058. I think that is why one side of the threads didn’t get as clean. Also, used compound except for .002 on the cross slide half way through. Better results when I use the crossslide more. Didn’t use a relief cut just to see. Used boring bar only for bolt nose recess. Measured .152 x .705. Very happy with that. Critiques please.
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
do you have an action there you can try on them?
Someoldguy
You may get some replies referring to thread wires but I tell you what, if a thread pitch gauge matches up and an action will thread up without forcing it and it ain't floppin' around, you're golden. But I'm one of those 'It only matters if it matters' guys.
Pull a dozen factory barrels and you'll see what I mean.
mram10
I do have an action, just need to pull the barrel off. Need to rechamber my edge, so I will use it to practice with for a while. I don’t plan on using wires. Getting a lot more comfortable with my equipment. Amazing what a week will do with the right help. Some great guys on here.
Someoldguy
It's been inspiring to watch your progress. A week from then to now? Huh.
Imagine where this man will be in a year.
Merry Christmas.
Progressing nicely.
Outboard side (toward muzzle end) of threads looks good. Inboard side looks like you might have missed the mark and made a gouge in that side (about half-way down). This would be consistent with missing the mark just once about half-way through, then cleaning it up somewhat on the next few passes.
Outboard side (toward muzzle end) of threads looks good. Inboard side looks like you might have missed the mark and made a gouge in that side (about half-way down). This would be consistent with missing the mark just once about half-way through, then cleaning it up somewhat on the next few passes.
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By the way, one site that has helped me a lot with threads is Theoretical Machinist:
http://theoreticalmachinist.com/Threads_UnifiedImperial.aspx
Plug in the numbers for your thread and you'll get more info that you know what to do with, but one of them is Thread Depth. This is how far your tool must travel from the time it just makes a mark on the tenon until the thread is at its theoretical end point. In the case of 16 TPI, this is 0.0338. If you were just plunging the cross-slide, this would be how far. If your using the compound at 29.5°, take this value divided by cosine of 29.5° ( 0.0338 / cos 29.5 = 0.0389) this would be how much to go on your compound dial (or probably twice that, 0.0777, since most compound dials are calibrated for total removed from the diameter).
Do get some thread wires. They are cheap but are very accurate. With them, you can even make your own thread gauges.
http://theoreticalmachinist.com/Threads_UnifiedImperial.aspx
Plug in the numbers for your thread and you'll get more info that you know what to do with, but one of them is Thread Depth. This is how far your tool must travel from the time it just makes a mark on the tenon until the thread is at its theoretical end point. In the case of 16 TPI, this is 0.0338. If you were just plunging the cross-slide, this would be how far. If your using the compound at 29.5°, take this value divided by cosine of 29.5° ( 0.0338 / cos 29.5 = 0.0389) this would be how much to go on your compound dial (or probably twice that, 0.0777, since most compound dials are calibrated for total removed from the diameter).
Do get some thread wires. They are cheap but are very accurate. With them, you can even make your own thread gauges.
mram10
SomeOld, thanks. Nice to hear. Have a long ways to go, but you guys have been a HUGE help.
Danny, thanks. Long ways to go.
Gene, perfect analysis. That’s what I need. I’ll try to knock out another tonight and post pics. I’ll cut a new hss threading tool because I think the other is off on the side rake angles. The depth you mentioned is a huge help. I’ll try it. Your input is appreciated
Danny, thanks. Long ways to go.
Gene, perfect analysis. That’s what I need. I’ll try to knock out another tonight and post pics. I’ll cut a new hss threading tool because I think the other is off on the side rake angles. The depth you mentioned is a huge help. I’ll try it. Your input is appreciated
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The only change is your camera angle. the front side of the threads are just there. Put the front side finish on the back side of the thread before you stick a piece of steel into an action. The back side of the thread is what is important, that's why I'm not overwhelmed with cutting threads on 29.5 deg. One little chip on the point of the tool and you end up with a garbage thread. Then someone posts a picture of the wrong side of the thread and everyone is overwhelmed with awe.
About the harsh responses, if you are going to become a chip maker you need to get used to it. There are a lot of machinists on here who are the equivalence to cabinet or exotic furniture makers. Master craftsmen don't have much patience with framers either.
You will eventually get it but you seem more interested with atta'boys than real criticism.
You said you are not, going to use wires to measure your work. Just how do you plan to do so?
I mean you no disrespect but you are attempting to cut threads your way with out doing any of the prep work. You have garnered quite a following with this, yet you seem to ignore those that have spent years perfecting their trade. This is no difference than someone buying a 300.00 parts kit and screwing an AR together and after 50 rounds becoming a member of the Presidents 100 club.
About the harsh responses, if you are going to become a chip maker you need to get used to it. There are a lot of machinists on here who are the equivalence to cabinet or exotic furniture makers. Master craftsmen don't have much patience with framers either.
You will eventually get it but you seem more interested with atta'boys than real criticism.
You said you are not, going to use wires to measure your work. Just how do you plan to do so?
I mean you no disrespect but you are attempting to cut threads your way with out doing any of the prep work. You have garnered quite a following with this, yet you seem to ignore those that have spent years perfecting their trade. This is no difference than someone buying a 300.00 parts kit and screwing an AR together and after 50 rounds becoming a member of the Presidents 100 club.
mram10
TRA, you have no idea. Not sure who stuffed coal in your stocking, but it’s not my fault. I am all about constructive criticism. If I were teaching you something I have become proficient in, I would use constructive criticism as opposed to negative reinforcement.
What have I ignored? I have ordered hss, carbide inserts, learned to grind my own hss. I’ve squared the shoulder better, added a 45 at the face for starting threads. What haven’t I done?
I know a few guys that make nice rifles and simply fit the action as they thread. They don’t use wires. Seems to work for them. I appreciate the nuggets of knowledge you threw in your post, just would prefer you keep it to that rather than a crabby rant.
What have I ignored? I have ordered hss, carbide inserts, learned to grind my own hss. I’ve squared the shoulder better, added a 45 at the face for starting threads. What haven’t I done?
I know a few guys that make nice rifles and simply fit the action as they thread. They don’t use wires. Seems to work for them. I appreciate the nuggets of knowledge you threw in your post, just would prefer you keep it to that rather than a crabby rant.
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mram10
Just did another one since I’m not tired. Still didn’t get very clean faces to the threads. Used more of the cross slide this time. Probably 70/30 cross slide. Need a better relief cut. Don’t have cutoff tools yet, so I used my shoulder 90 tool. I ran some sand paper over them at the end and flattened the threads a bit much. Fire away guys.
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Instructing me in whatever your proficient in, stands a slim to slimmer chance in hell it would happen.
You have learned to grind your hss? it sure docent look like it. If you were in a structured environment, a class so to speak, your instructer would have you back in the class rooms until you know how to setup, what the dimensions must be and how to measure them, and if he wants to torture you he'd have you grind threading tools till your fingers were fully blistered. The setup is what matters and the tool has to be ground in a very fine window when working on 16-18-20 threads.
If you haven't done so yet, go to Grizzly and buy their South Bend reprint. The book is
"How To Run A Lathe".........costs about 15.00 and is the best most user friendly primmer available for operating a lathe.
I'd pitch the HSS and go with a top notch tool holder with thread inserts of the stand up style. I only use full form inserts which requires a wide assortment of inserts and an assortment of pitch shims. You can't f... up a thread with those if you are well versed to their method of operation
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