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You are so right, Eddie! Might be good to have that GO gauge, though.EddieHarren said:"I have never bought GO and NO GO gauges for a reamer because they won't tell you bullet seating depth."
I'm tellin' ya', this place is better'n the funny papers.
IMHO this is terrible advice. The GO/ No Go gauges are the "standard" ........ precision machined parts that absolutely verifies the reamer produced the desired chamber that is safe. A "machinist" who engages in such a practice is NOT a gunsmith in any sense of the word.Ledd Slinger said:Dummy rounds are also the best way for a smith to set your headspace. So I also supply him with empty sized brass.
I've never bought GO and NO GO gauges for a reamer because they won't tell you bullet seating depth. Always supply dummy rounds.
I know some smiths who won't even chamber a rifle for you if you don't supply multiple dummy rounds.
You give a good smith the right tools to do the job, he'll have a lot better chance of doing the job right.
Ledd Slinger said:LHSmith said:IMHO this is terrible advice. The GO/ No Go gauges are the "standard" ........ precision machined parts that absolutely verifies the reamer produced the desired chamber that is safe. A "machinist" who engages in such a practice is NOT a gunsmith in any sense of the word.Ledd Slinger said:Dummy rounds are also the best way for a smith to set your headspace. So I also supply him with empty sized brass.
I've never bought GO and NO GO gauges for a reamer because they won't tell you bullet seating depth. Always supply dummy rounds.
I know some smiths who won't even chamber a rifle for you if you don't supply multiple dummy rounds.
You give a good smith the right tools to do the job, he'll have a lot better chance of doing the job right.
You should expect more PM's from "real" smiths.
That's your "opinion" and you can do your job however you want.
I've had nothing but outstanding accuracy results from my smith. You can give him go/no go gauges if you want, but there's no advantage in it. For folks who are building common SAAMI spec cardtridges and plan on using factory ammo, that's a different story. Insult him all you want, but he's probably built more tack driving rifles than you've even laid eyes upon.
My gunsmith set up ALL of the barrel making equipment for the new X-Caliber barrel manufacturer and trained all the machinsts how to properly use the machines AND how to properly hand lap the bores. How about you look up reviews on X-caliber customer barrel tolerances and finishes, then bad mouth him some more if you like. We got feedback from a 1K BR competitor shooting a 2.75" 10 shot group while practicing with the barrel from the machines he set up. He's been a machinist for about 40 years or more now...I think he knows what he's doing![]()
Erik Cortina said:Ledd Slinger said:LHSmith said:IMHO this is terrible advice. The GO/ No Go gauges are the "standard" ........ precision machined parts that absolutely verifies the reamer produced the desired chamber that is safe. A "machinist" who engages in such a practice is NOT a gunsmith in any sense of the word.Ledd Slinger said:Dummy rounds are also the best way for a smith to set your headspace. So I also supply him with empty sized brass.
I've never bought GO and NO GO gauges for a reamer because they won't tell you bullet seating depth. Always supply dummy rounds.
I know some smiths who won't even chamber a rifle for you if you don't supply multiple dummy rounds.
You give a good smith the right tools to do the job, he'll have a lot better chance of doing the job right.
You should expect more PM's from "real" smiths.
That's your "opinion" and you can do your job however you want.
I've had nothing but outstanding accuracy results from my smith. You can give him go/no go gauges if you want, but there's no advantage in it. For folks who are building common SAAMI spec cardtridges and plan on using factory ammo, that's a different story. Insult him all you want, but he's probably built more tack driving rifles than you've even laid eyes upon.
My gunsmith set up ALL of the barrel making equipment for the new X-Caliber barrel manufacturer and trained all the machinsts how to properly use the machines AND how to properly hand lap the bores. How about you look up reviews on X-caliber customer barrel tolerances and finishes, then bad mouth him some more if you like. We got feedback from a 1K BR competitor shooting a 2.75" 10 shot group while practicing with the barrel from the machines he set up. He's been a machinist for about 40 years or more now...I think he knows what he's doing![]()
Machinists own gauges to use as a standard, like joe blocks, pin gauges, etc. Chamber gauges serves the same purpose for chambers. Using brass as a gauge would be the same as calibrating your mic's on 1" extruded aluminum.
shortgrass said:Ledd Slinger, you've convinced me to view any of your future posts as pure gibberish. You're the reason the web is known as "The Mis-Information Super Hi-Way!". (the beginning of June I'll have 41yrs. experience as a "job shop" machinist. I, also, have a diploma from MCC [Troy, N.C.] 2yr gunsmithing program [grad. '93, I've installed countless barrels since then]. I had a part time job while I went to school in the day,,,,, guess where, in a machine shop!)
Your BAD ;D I have a dasher that I have chambered another .030 deeper. Trying it because of the powder I use. I now have no crunch and a slight loss of speed. LarryLedd Slinger said:My wildcats are not SAAMI.
Most folks have a rifle chambered then fool around with their dies to get the right headspace where it is safe and accurate. I provide sized brass so the chamber is fitted to conform exactly how my brass is set from the sizing die. I get my rifle back, quick check on headspace, it's always right, load the test ammo, off to the range I go. Never have to worry about changing the headspace on my FL sizers.
Should this method be used by inexperienced handloaders or people using factory ammo? No, I would not recommend it at all. If you are well versed in making your own ammo safely by ensuring the proper headspacing is used, there is no danger with my method.
How far does a Dasher blow the shoulder forward during fire-forming? And that's a practice you all think is safe but my method of chambering a barrel is not? However, forming Dasher brass CAN be made a safe operation IF you know what you're doing right? Same with how I have my barrels chambered. If you know what you're doing when loading your ammo, there's nothing unsafe about it.
My chambers are made to custom fit my brass which eliminates the chance of a sizing die being out of spec and not being able to knock the shoulder back correctly. You always hear guys on hear complaining about rounds chambering tight with bolts closing hard or sizing dies not knocking the shoulder back far enough wondering what the heck is going on. You'll never hear that complaint from me...
Not mine and apparently not yours. :Ledd Slinger said:Oh don't do that Larry!!! That's against the rules! LOL ;D
