I have always used Redding and Wilson dies through the years for reloading. I have never had custom dies made for a rifle that i had built and i am thinking of having it done. In the past i have necked sized till the brass needed sized and have used the Wilson bullet seater and the Redding micrometer die also. The way i am going to reload for these 2 is to seat bullets with a Wilson micrometer and i want to have a die for a press that full length sizes, bumps the shoulder and neck size in 1 pass. I know that Redding sells these dies and Harrels does not due the 2 calibers i am doing. Neil and Warner make dies their that i could have done. So my question is could i have my smith ream me out a chamber off the extra piece of barrel left over to send out to have this die made from? Would it be better than sending fired brass? Would it even work? I do not have a problem sending out fired brass to have this die made but if it has to be a piece of brass that has been fired 2 or 3 times from my chamber to get a die made then i am going to have to buy a die to size my neck to get a 2nd or 3rd firing from the case. I would like to know what you fellows due when you have dies made for your rifle and how you go about it. Do most of you guys use someone that also makes dies to when you have a barrel chambered.
Custom full length dies
- Thread starter dtucker
- Start date
dtucker said:
What are your two mystery calibers?
Harrell's [ http://www.harrellsprec.com/ ] by the way, makes dies for many calibers, but the only ones you see in their site are for the 6PPC and 30BR.
YOU MUST CALL for the other caliber dies they offer, and, they offer many.
When I had Billy Stevens [ http://www.stevensaccuracy.com/ ] build my 6PPC he supplied me with a die he has made up for his 6PPC specs. It's not made from a piece of the barrel but rather from a Full Length Die blank [a Newlon I believe http://newlonprecision.com/ ], with bushing capability.
He also built my 30BR but since he doesn't offer dies for the 30BR I had Harrell's supply me with one. And, of course, their F/L dies are designed for bushings too.
I had Warner make my sizing die from fired cases and a chamber cast.
His dies are exceptional quality and his customer service is very good. I would recommend his dies without hesitation.
http://www.warner-tool.com/reloading.htm
His dies are exceptional quality and his customer service is very good. I would recommend his dies without hesitation.
http://www.warner-tool.com/reloading.htm
Dan, call Neil Jones and talk to him, he just made me a FL bushing die for my .220 Weatherby Rocket based on 3 fired cases each one having been fired 3 times each. I am lucky as I live 7 miles from Neil, and he is a customer of mine as well. I recommend him very highly--shop # 814-763-2769. Depending on his work load which has lightened up recently, it takes him anywhere from a month to 3 months to get them built. These dies work well!
Frank
Frank
Dan, no, I used my 6AI Redding bushing neck die to size neck just enough to hold a bullet and then the .220 Rocket bullet seater he had made for me 15 years ago. The neck die I had from Neal used larger bushings so I could not neck these new Norma cases down for this tight neck Rocket chamber.
Frank
Frank
Try a Type S FL die and a set of Skips spacers.
Shooting a semi-auto? I use the FL S dies especially for semis, but they work great with spacer(s) when just want to neck size with the bushing, like for bolt-gun.
Custom die might float your boat and give you bragging rights, but... Type S FL die will do all you want. Might also try a set of Redding comp shellholders so you can explore all the variables. Try setting your lock ring with the decapping pin through the flash hole for extra concentricity. Might find your 7/8x14 dies are sufficient to meet your expectations.
Shooting a semi-auto? I use the FL S dies especially for semis, but they work great with spacer(s) when just want to neck size with the bushing, like for bolt-gun.
Custom die might float your boat and give you bragging rights, but... Type S FL die will do all you want. Might also try a set of Redding comp shellholders so you can explore all the variables. Try setting your lock ring with the decapping pin through the flash hole for extra concentricity. Might find your 7/8x14 dies are sufficient to meet your expectations.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Dan,
Call Neil Jones or who ever you decide to use and ask if a chamber cast will do, your smith can make one easy enough. I have several sets of 22-250 dies, I would be happy to mail you a set so you can send the fired brass and not waste the money on dies you won't need again.
Wayne.
Call Neil Jones or who ever you decide to use and ask if a chamber cast will do, your smith can make one easy enough. I have several sets of 22-250 dies, I would be happy to mail you a set so you can send the fired brass and not waste the money on dies you won't need again.
Wayne.
Wayne, I had your number until i deleted all my stuff from the transaction we had. I would like to call you to just talk a little bit about some stuff when you get some time. If you could pm me your number and let me know when a good time to reach you would be. Remember i am here in Ohio and i do not know how much time difference their is between you and i. Thanks and hope to hear from you.
I agree with hogan. I use Skip's shims and Redding S-Type FL Dies. I set my die height accurately (using the Digital Headspace Gauge) for each rifle that I load for. It's like having custom dies for all of my rifles, and it's a whole lot cheaper. My chamber clearance is set to -.001"
The case neck, body and shoulder are resized in one operation with everything fully supported in one die. Brass lasts a lot longer, and concentricity of my handloads is -.001" or less (occasionally -.002").
The case neck, body and shoulder are resized in one operation with everything fully supported in one die. Brass lasts a lot longer, and concentricity of my handloads is -.001" or less (occasionally -.002").
DTucker
If you can chamber a factory case you don't need dies to get new dies made.
Simply prime a case add your powder and if possible seat your bullet.After firing knock out your primer seat a new one add powder and seat your second bullet.
If you can't do this due to no neck tension simply pinch the very end of the neck using vise grips.You want to use vise grips as you can adjust them tighter and tighter in very small increments just so you can seat a bullet.You are not trying to do the whole neck on all sides you are just pinching it enough so your bullet doesn't fall into the powder.
After your third firing don't do anything and send your brass to Neil Jones.
Lynn
If you can chamber a factory case you don't need dies to get new dies made.
Simply prime a case add your powder and if possible seat your bullet.After firing knock out your primer seat a new one add powder and seat your second bullet.
If you can't do this due to no neck tension simply pinch the very end of the neck using vise grips.You want to use vise grips as you can adjust them tighter and tighter in very small increments just so you can seat a bullet.You are not trying to do the whole neck on all sides you are just pinching it enough so your bullet doesn't fall into the powder.
After your third firing don't do anything and send your brass to Neil Jones.
Lynn
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