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Cross Hair / Scope Leveler

I've used a few different types of scope leveling contraptions in my years and the Wheeler Professional Reticle Leveling System is hands down the best in my opinion. Very well made and makes leveling quite easy. Don't buy those junker magnetic sticks or the type that are secured with a rubber band. They ain't worth a cat's ass in a dog fight.

Make sure you look at the "Professional" model from wheeler. Here's a link.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system
 
Leupold magnetic is the best i have used
I put a level on the picatinny rail,place a level on top of the leupold boresight,mount the scope,level the crosshair to the boresight . It works perfectly
 
Use a CTK level on the action (doesnt use magnets) and a plumb bob on the wall. Put your gun in a vice and level the action. Now rubber band a flash light on the barrel pointing into the objective. Put your scope on its lowest power and turn the flash light on. The light will project the chrosshairs onto the wall, make sure the butt of the gun is roughly 18"-24" away from the wall. Focus the eye focus untill the crosshairs are crisp. With the gun level level the crosshairs to the plum line shadow on thw wall. You can get your bubble level set this way too. I like this method because if you try to look through the scope and set it the paralax messes with you and takes a long time. This method takes 15 min from start to finish. And you only use 1 level. Ill post some pictures.
 
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I moved the croshairs to the sise for a photo but normally you can run it along the wider part of the duplex and it makes it east to see when there parallel. I also use this to check if the scope tracks true up and down.
 

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Even in quality scopes the reticle can be off center 0.5deg-3.0deg (extreme case).

Leveling the scope using the reticle or crosshairs as the primary reference point with a plumb bob may result in inadvertent scope cant.

Using a level on top of the turret may also result in issues as you can't be positive that the turret is level in reference to the rest of the system.

If you confirm that the turret is level you can use it as a reference point. Then true the crosshairs to a plumb bob at a distance like mentioned.
 
True that is why in the method i wrote i run the turrets all the way up and then down to make sure that the center of the crosshairs track on the plum line. the scope in the pictures has a elevation turret that doesnt sit perfectly level. i took off the turret and put a level on the erector and checked and as you rotated the erector the level was off as it moved which showed the top wasnt machined straight its about .002" off. but the crosshairs are straight and do track straight even tho the turret sits slightly off level. you can use a Starrret level which is good to about .002"
 
I moved the croshairs to the sise for a photo but normally you can run it along the wider part of the duplex and it makes it east to see when there parallel. I also use this to check if the scope tracks true up and down.

Stop,

Very ingenious idea. Makes total sense and allows for checking several things at once. I will try this next time I mount a scope. Simple solution to something that can be very awkward at times.:cool:

Thanks, Paul

www.boltfluting.com
 
Thanks Boltfluter, i cant take all the credit i learned about the using a light on a "how to calibrate survey equipment" article and figured if it works for calibration why not for scope leveling, same principle. So far its worked for me.
 
Stopp you explain it perfectly.

After you level the rifle if you true the crosshairs to a plumb bob it still may not account for reticle cant.

By tracking the crosshair all the way up you can note any deviation or reticle cant.

I'm going to try your method with a flashlight to project the reticle. A light just turned on
 
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Thank you. Correct it allows you to see any cant as you dial your turret. I would rather have it slightly canted and have it track true than to have it straight and track crooked.
 
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The brighter the light the better. Also make sure the scope is on the lowest power or the reticle wont focus at its full potential.
 
Your method is a lot easier
versus using a plumb bob or calibrated target at 100 yards.

Attached is some food for thought. I think most of us are on the same page, just getting there different ways.

IMG_2723_zpshp3alsh6.png


IMG_2724_zpsbutqa716.png


IMG_2725_zpskqsmela7.png


IMG_2726_zpsckckhy8z.png


http://precisionrifleblog.com/2014/09/19/tactical-scopes-field-test-results-summary/
 
When i get to the range and have roughed in my bubble level i will set up a peice of cardboard with a straight line on it. Use a 4ft level or straight edge to draw the line. Put a dot at the bottom of the line and a dot at 30 inches up the line. Now hang it vertically using a plum bob the get the line perfectly verticle. Shoot a group at the bottom target with the scope bubble level level. Then dial 30moa and make sure its level and shoot a group. It should land on the line close to your 30 inch target ( moa is 1.047"). If its right or left of the line move the scope level accordingly. Make a witness mark with pencil so you can see how much you have moved it. Then its time to try it in the feild. This makes certian that the scope is tracking correct
 
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Dont rotate the scope, just the level on your scope. If the bullets hit right move the level to the right. So with them hitting right you would have to "roll" the crosshairs to the left which would cause the level bubble to go right so move it right to center the bubble again.
 

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