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Crimping Jacketed Rifle bullets without cannelures ?

hoz53

Gold $$ Contributor
Hello all. I am trying to decide which crimp die I should use in a dillon 550b set up for .223 to be used in ar-15s. I have a standard rcbs seater die I could use to roll crimp cannelured bullets, but I am wondering if the lee factory crimp die would be better for this and specifically if I could/should use the lee die to crimp bullets that don't have a cannelure, in this application. any info will be much appreciated.

Thanks napsac
 
Lee Factory Crimp Die all the way. As a side note I have found that when it comes time to trim your cases leave them five thousands longer than the trim to length. That will give you enough case length to get a full crimp on and the case still not be too long. Contrary to the thinking of many people I have not experienced any decrease in accuracy when using the LFCD on match bullets or any bullet without a cannelure.
 
I have never crimped a bullet for any of my AR's & have never experienced any issues with bullets moving seating depth.
 
I use a Lee FCD on all calibers I reload. I no longer use the crimp ring contained in the seater dies. With the LFCD, the case lengths don't all have to be precisely uniform. So, there's no bulging of the case necks.

This is so because the LFCD uses collets to squeeze laterally rather thaan by pushing/ramming the case upward into a crimp ring.

Bayou52
 
With a roll crimp die on un cannelured bullets the brass length will need to be very precise each loading. I recommend not going that way.
 
Redding makes a taper crimp die for the 223. This fits the bill perfectly for the non cannelured bullets. Hope this helps.
 
You have three choices.

1. Decrease the expander button diameter for increased neck tension and no crimp.

2. Stab crimp like the Lee factory crimp die.

3. A taper crimp like on the RCBS AR series dies

NOTE: Number 1 and 2 are more forgiving with case length and crimping.

Crimps-3_zps15b1fd66.jpg
 
Okay some great info here!

Gandof-- Thanks for the vote on the LCD and info that it doesn't affect accuracy

2505-- Another thumbs up for the LCD and thanks for the trimming info

Larry-- I relied on only neck tension for a long time and I know this is how many still do it thanks

Bayo-- Thanks Yes I know the LCD relies on a collet setup. I will try one and probably use more on other calibers if it works

Barnwell-- thanks for letting me know about the Redding taper crimp die, I will get one and try it out.

Big Ed-- Always good to hear from you. Thanks for the clarifications. I didn't know the ar dies had a taper crimp die. I will probably try a set. I'm amazed how you reply to these posts while fling around in your P-51 ;D


Warren- thanks for another vote for the LCD.


Well you guys provided me with all the info I was looking for about this topic. I will try these dies and I'm sure one of them will work for me. Napsac
 
LFCD info says minimum of 25 pounds of crimp. I’m Scratching my head wondering how I can do that with my RCBS one armed bandit? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I shot NRA high power with AR15s in 223 and 6mm for quite a few years and never crimped. Never had any problems.
 
I have shot 30-40,000 rounds thrue AR platforms over the last 20 years without a crimp. Adding a crimp is a solution looking for a problem.
 
I shot NRA high power with AR15s in 223 and 6mm for quite a few years and never crimped. Never had any problems.

I also shoot Highpower, and have for many years. I have never crimped for an AR, M1 or M14 clone.

Danny
 
Another no-crimper. Please don't get me wrong; crimp if you want to, but why add a process step?

I'm curious as to why you want to crimp?

I suppose some have said that crimps improve their accuracy; but I've never seen a crimp on the shooting line at a match. I have to conclude that load work-ups are more important.

Is it for storing a large batch of ammo? If so there's far more important process steps and crimping isn't one that helps long term storage.

Is it to prevent bullet set-back? Recoil based; it's a non-issue on 223. Maybe I'm wrong?

Preventing a bullet from being stuck in the barrel? If your AR is a Wylde or 5.56 chamber and you're seating for mag length, any bullet is still a LONG way from the lands.

Squib load protection? Primer still has enough pressure to send the bullet into the barrel. Keep a range rod with you.

Use bullet point as disassembly tool? Ok, yes crimp bullets for this. Don't see how it'll maintain accuracy though.

-Mac
 
I shoot a 20 practical, AR platform, 40 grain boat tail bullets, about 3/16 of bearing surface in the neck, with .001 neck tension, can't really crimp and never had a problem. If you are concerned about bullet movement and you have a bullet puller of some stripe, take a couple rounds each of crimped and non crimped dummy rounds and try pulling your bullet. The inertia/impact puller would probably be the best test.
 
Hello all. I am trying to decide which crimp die I should use in a dillon 550b set up for .223 to be used in ar-15s. I have a standard rcbs seater die I could use to roll crimp cannelured bullets, but I am wondering if the lee factory crimp die would be better for this and specifically if I could/should use the lee die to crimp bullets that don't have a cannelure, in this application. any info will be much appreciated.

Thanks napsac
I use the exact setup... The only way to tell would be to try some... I crimp my .223 for the AR platform , better safe than sorry... I have seen them get reseated in operation.... Since I use iron sights super accuracy is not that important but I want all I can get... I have crimped Berry's bullets for pistol like your talking about with no problems... Rifle though is a different story...

With the LFC die I would try some at 1/4 turn and 1/2 turn and see what they do on paper...
 

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