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Could someone on here teach me how to get a glued in panda out of the stock!

jonbearman

I live in new york state,how unfortunate !
Next fall I want to remove my glued in panda in order to do some stock work,like pillers and bedding so if the need arise's it will kake it possible to remove it from the stock and do what needs to be done.Dont know what they used for glue but it isnt a regular epoxy.It is a light brown color that you can see through to the metal that shows.I know heat will do it but it is an aluminum receiver and I dont want to ruin the thing.If you have any idea's please post or pm me with details.Thanks in advance as it will be a big help to know the easiest way to do it.
 
I wonder how hot aluminum has to get before it warps.I dont know but the iron thing sounds the best,so thank you for the replys.
 
Put rifle in a barrel vise set iron [not better half's good one] on the base and let it set till it is good and warm[hot] and take stock from muzzle end and pry it off. It should come right off. I have done 4 pandas this way and it has worked fine. And no I have not ruined any actions they still shoot.
 
I have melted Devcon with a heat gun on the Low setting and it did not take long but agree that the iron seems more logical. Perhaps try the freezer first?
 
jonbearman said:
I wonder how hot aluminum has to get before it warps.I dont know but the iron thing sounds the best,so thank you for the replys.

Jpberman,

It is not warping to fear, but annealing and destroying the 7075 light metal characteristics. Not to heat over 200°C400°F I think

R.G.C
 
Robert said:
jonbearman said:
I wonder how hot aluminum has to get before it warps.I dont know but the iron thing sounds the best,so thank you for the replys.

Jpberman,

It is not warping to fear, but annealing and destroying the 7075 light metal characteristics. Not to heat over 200°C400°F I think

R.G.C


Aluminum 7075 alloy is annealed at 413°C (775°F) for 3 h followed by controlled cooling at 10 to 260° C (50 to 500°F) per hour, and cooling in air.
[font=verdana, sans-serif][/size]http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6652[/font]
 
jonbearman said:
Anyone know just how hot an iron gets?


Not precisely, but it seem s the newer ones don't get as hot as the older ones do. Probably lawyers...
I've never checked one, but have read that they only get a little over 200°F
 
Talk with a mechanic or racer buddy, see if they have a temp. gun...

If not check your local tool supply and see if there is a "deal" on one, then you will know what YOUR iron`s temp. is.....
 
phil said:
Talk with a mechanic or racer buddy, see if they have a temp. gun...

If not check your local tool supply and see if there is a "deal" on one, then you will know what YOUR iron`s temp. is.....
I've got one. I might just have to plug up ther iron and see what it says.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
phil said:
Talk with a mechanic or racer buddy, see if they have a temp. gun...

If not check your local tool supply and see if there is a "deal" on one, then you will know what YOUR iron`s temp. is.....
I've got one. I might just have to plug up ther iron and see what it says.
Well, after about 15 minutes, the highest reading I can get is 227°F..and it's cycling on and off, on it's highest setting
 
Call Kelby's and see what they say and see at what temp the locktite, that hold the inserts release at.

Hal
 
Hal said:
Call Kelby's and see what they say and see at what temp the locktite, that hold the inserts release at.

Hal
^This is where there is "some" potential for a problem, but it's miniscule, as the insert is torqed into the action at something like 350ft/lbs., as well as loctite. Thermal expansion differences between aluminum and steel being what they are, and with all the stars aligning against you.,..it could happen that the insert moves. I've seen it once! The maker couldn't believe it, but after doing the calculations, considering full potential movement at 200+°, it actually proved to have moved precisely the calculated potential amount. Just jon't try removing the barrel with it hot, and you should have no problem.
 
Freezing does work. Freeze solid for 24 hours, remove and tap on underside of barrel with a rubber mallet upwards towards the receiver end. You should hear a POP on release.

It does work.

Larry
Tinkerer
 

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