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Competition machine f class .vs

Looking to do an open f class build for fun on somewhat of a budget.

I set up my 6br in a KRG Bravo with a front and rear bag rider to see if it's something I would enjoy. Using a bald eagle front rest and a rabbit ear bag. Pretty sure I'm addicted. Took it out to 500 and was getting .6-.3 groups, which I'm really excited about, because I've never gone past 200 yards.

I can't help but wonder what a better everything would do for me. Trigger, stock, better front rest. Etc.

Trying to keep it budget friendly, the competition machine F class chassis seems awesome.

Questions:

Anyone use them, and your thoughts?
Any other options in that price range?
 
.6-.3 MOA or inches?
My bad. MOA. Using the ballistic X app. So...no comment on the actual question then? Yeah, I'm shooting .3in groups at 500 yards with a KRG bravo stock, repeater actions and a rabbit ear bag. Breaking world records. Lol
 
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Well, .6 MOA at 500 yards is pretty good. .3 is very good.

Since you're resting the rifle on bags, the only question about the KRG chassis is how secure is the action in the chassis. If it's nice and secure, I'm thinking the Eliseo chassis wouldn't improve things.

A key question for me would be what trigger are you using?
 
Well, .6 MOA at 500 yards is pretty good. .3 is very good.

Since you're resting the rifle on bags, the only question about the KRG chassis is how secure is the action in the chassis. If it's nice and secure, I'm thinking the Eliseo chassis wouldn't improve things.

A key question for me would be what trigger are you using?
I'm using a trigger tech special at 16oz. Not the greatest lol
 
Looking at a shade tree top as well. My bald eagle top constantly gets loose and wobbles and it has no horizontal movement.

The bag rider on the KRG is 1in thick. So I dont even know what rear bag would be best for that
 
Kev, the price of your equipment isn't important, so don't denigrate it. You are shooting very well with what you have. I won several matches when I was competing, against shooters with FAR more expensive gear, because I knew how to use my gear and could gauge conditions. A 16 oz trigger is better than good. Keep it.

Don't spend money on gear now; spend it on practice and competition. If you have a rifle that is capable of 1/2 MOA accuracy at distance, then you have a rig (and shooter) that is capable of doing very well. And you do, so have confidence in your gear and yourself, and get to a match. Practice with an F-class target. Shoot F-class strings. Scale your target down for the distance where you can practice.

You're on the right track.
 
500 yard F-Class targets and repair centers are available


One can order as few as 12 or more if wanted.

Group size is a good place to start. Checking your score after 2 or a few sighting shots and 20 record shots with a regulation time limit, will give you an better idea of match conditions & your performance.
 
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I own two Competition Machine F One chassis's they shoot great. Won plenty with them but a chassis is low on the list for importance barrel quality and bullet quality matter the most. Best of luck with the project.
 
Kev, the price of your equipment isn't important, so don't denigrate it. You are shooting very well with what you have. I won several matches when I was competing, against shooters with FAR more expensive gear, because I knew how to use my gear and could gauge conditions. A 16 oz trigger is better than good. Keep it.

Don't spend money on gear now; spend it on practice and competition. If you have a rifle that is capable of 1/2 MOA accuracy at distance, then you have a rig (and shooter) that is capable of doing very well. And you do, so have confidence in your gear and yourself, and get to a match. Practice with an F-class target. Shoot F-class strings. Scale your target down for the distance where you can practice.

You're on the right track.
I will take that into consideration. I will continue to shoot over the summer, and mid or end of summer I will try and go/enter a match. However, one thing I am going to buy is the shade tree top, because the front rest I have now, the top comes loose, and I want that joystick haha. Appreciate the honest words.
 
I'm cheap too. I have a BAT repeater action in a Bravo chassis with a Bartlien barrel chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. It got me to High Master in both mid range (300-600 yards) and long range (800-1000 yards). I milled a 3 inch wide bag rider that mates to length of aluminum that fits in the spigot. That runs on a SEB mini with a SEB bigfoot rear bag. Works great.

I'd keep shooting what you have until you've done some matches to see what other people are shooting. The calibers, actions, scopes, rests, rear bags and everything else will surprise you. What you have is not limiting you at this point. And once you shoot a couple matches wants on the equipment front may change significantly.
 
Just because something catches your eye doesn't mean it's necessarily the best option for F-Class shooting. Because you already have a 6BR that is shooting 0.3 to 0.6 MOA groups at 500 yd, I would suggest using that setup to participate in some midrange F-Class matches in your area; whatever you can find. While at those matches, I would be looking very carefully at the rifle stocks, front rests, and rear bags other competitors are using, particularly those competitors that are placing at/near the top of the leader board. Nothing is better than inspecting a potential equipment buy up close and in person.

I would also suggest leaving any preconceived notions (if there are any) about possible choices at home. See what the folks are using successfully first, then look into prices and begin to form an opinion of what equipment might best suit your needs and budget. Then notion of looking for support from others for a puchase choice you may have already decided upon in your mind can end up being very expensive, and not just in terms of money. Most F-Class shooters are more than willing to talk to others about their setups - i.e. what they're using, why they chose a particular item, how well it is working for them, and whether it might have any shortcomings. This is exactly the kind of information that can help you make purchases that will allow you to accomplish your goals without breaking the bank.

As a final consideration, a "budget" or "economy" piece of equipment that doesn't do the job isn't really economical at all. In fact, it's usually a complete waste of money, because you will most often end up having to buy something else later that does work. In other words, the money spent on the piece of equipment that ultimately was unsatisfactory and had to be replaced was totally wasted. Saving money is great, but sometimes you have to spend a bit of money in order to save a bit of money. F-Class equipment can sometimes be a great example of this concept. It's analogous to the statement of "buy once, cry once". Regardless of the specific piece of equipment, there are lots of different manufacturers and lots of different choices. No matter how much is spent on a piece of equipment, it has to effectively do the job. Cheapest is not always best, nor is most expensive guaranteed to be the best. Seeing what equipment others are successfully using is a great way to start narrowing down one's potential choices into a manageable list, as well as helping to cull items that might look great in a magazine or online advertisement, but that have already been found by others to be unsatisfactory.
 

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