urbanrifleman
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Very interesting test.
CLP test video. VERY interesting
- Thread starter urbanrifleman
- Start date
xr650rRider
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PatMiles
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Clenzoil - The Original C.L.P.
Clenzoil is the leading and most trusted manufacturer of cleaning and maintenance products for the firearm and marine industries. Founded in 1948 by a WWII Army captain and still veteran owned today, Clenzoil is proud to be an All-American brand.
clenzoil.com
I like it and it smells good. Cooper Firearms rebrands it and recommends it for metal and wood.So, if you're in 0+ degree weather, it's clenzoil. But, I've never heard of Clenzoil!
I literally just purchased some of the clenzoil..... My friend let me use some at the range after I forget to oil an AR before the 40 mile drive to sight it in.... I had never seen or heard of it before and applied to much actually to the AR bolt carrier group.... It's way over 100 degrees here in central Texas and I took the rifle home and put it in the gun safe knowing I would be shooting it again soon...
I have been a slip 2000 ewl guy for many years but when I cracked that AR open I was shocked to see it still wet ready to run.... I actually wiped some of it off before reassembly... I understand wet lube , dry lube and even lube that goes on wet but then films into a dry lube , the options are endless in the gun world... But once again it's crazy this popped up because I have the unopened package of this oil on my coffee table right now to start testing..... The one thing I can say so far is don't go crazy spraying it on , just a little goes a long way from what I have seen and I suggest something like dipping a qtip into the bottle.... The spray application is to much wasted oil for me...
I have been a slip 2000 ewl guy for many years but when I cracked that AR open I was shocked to see it still wet ready to run.... I actually wiped some of it off before reassembly... I understand wet lube , dry lube and even lube that goes on wet but then films into a dry lube , the options are endless in the gun world... But once again it's crazy this popped up because I have the unopened package of this oil on my coffee table right now to start testing..... The one thing I can say so far is don't go crazy spraying it on , just a little goes a long way from what I have seen and I suggest something like dipping a qtip into the bottle.... The spray application is to much wasted oil for me...
A couple years ago I spent my own money and bought boxes of CLPs for testing. I'm not a CLP fan and a career in the military got me to that point. We were issued BF and all it ever did was make an oily mess of the M-16, M-60, and M-2 weapons I cleaned. I digress. In the end, the top 2 CLPs were Clenzoil and Prolix. The reason I listed 2 is this, Clensoil is a wet lube CLP and Prolix is a dry lube CLP. No CLP tested would remove the hard bore carbon. I know CLP is needed in the field but I am a believer in dedicated cleaners and lubes. I tested cleaners also but thats another story for another day.
Cleaned my AR today with Clenzoil since it was sitting on my bench. Sprayed down the bolt and carrier and let it sit a couple minutes. Using a nylon brush the carbon on the bolt came off with little brushing. The BC also came clean easily. Wiped it all down and it still had an oil sheen on it. I also decided to clean my reloading press with it and it did a great job and the press was noticeably smoother afterward. Clenzoil is good stuff
Cleaned my AR today with Clenzoil since it was sitting on my bench. Sprayed down the bolt and carrier and let it sit a couple minutes. Using a nylon brush the carbon on the bolt came off with little brushing. The BC also came clean easily. Wiped it all down and it still had an oil sheen on it. I also decided to clean my reloading press with it and it did a great job and the press was noticeably smoother afterward. Clenzoil is good stuff
Back years ago when the stuff was all the rage, many were saying use it to lube but don't get it in the bore. They all said it took 20 rounds to get your zero back after cleaning the bore with it. I was scared off from all CLP products from all this drama so I am saying this only as I heard it.
I have to agree with the oily mess breakfree can make cleaning weapons.
Sometimes I didn't know what was worse ,the dirt and grime in the weapons or the oil trying to clean it up.
I will not deny nor confirm the dipping of gun parts in scalding hot water.
I still use Breakfree CLP
urbanrifleman
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This is my current favorite. I sell it in my store. Great CLP and does not stink. It actually smells really good.
How much Break Free did you have in the action to be able to do that?
When going out in the cold, I use a very thin film on everything, and make sure any bore cleaners, etc don't get down in the trigger, firing pin channel, or other parts of that action.
For 20 yrs I lived on an island with a barrier reef right infront and onshore winds = atomized salt spray everywhere. Even plastic tried to rust. Corrosion-X was the one product that saved my valued items and guns! I tried nearly all of the products. It is very similar to ACF-50 which the aircraft maintenance guys used on our aircraft, but Corrosion-X has more lubrication with same anti-corrosion properties. Like you said good for hunting..but I am too much of a puss to hunt where my rifle freezes up!!
Have you used the regular gun oil or the extreme duty gun oil thats a bluish kind of color? Years ago I worked at an autoparts store and our boss gave us some of each, the red gun oil and bluish colored gun oil with a needle tip. Anyway it didnt sell well in our store so he ended up giving me several bottles of both. It has lasted me over a decade what he gave me and its been my primary oil for everything gun. I use the extreme duty more just because of the easier application with the tip. Seems like good stuff. When I finally run out of the free stuff I got I will probably buy it.This is my current favorite. I sell it in my store. Great CLP and does not stink. It actually smells really good.
View attachment 1475832
I keep a can of Breakfree CLP in my range bag, I heard that is what the military uses. But I wanted to point out that Ballistol is used by leathersmiths also, and I got some...that's the worst smelling crap on the market, which is surprising as it's made in Germany. It is worse smelling than WD40, IMO. Frog Lube does smell nice, it is the one attribute I would give it the nod on. If odor bothers you, go with the Frog Lube, and stay away from Ballistol at all costs.
I will give you a few of my secrets.
For artic weather get a can of Mobil Jet Oil II run it straight but just for Artic blasts. For anything short of Artic blast's mix with the grease of your choice I like Mobile Synthetic Grease, Redline CV-2, Moly EP grease of your choice. You want to mix it until it has the consistency of just a little bit thicker than Extra Virgin Olive Oil your looking for US Army LSA type ligiid grease. Any grease is fine so long as it is an EP grease and so long as it is not bentonite based. You do not want a clay thickener in any grease used for a firearm or bearing.
If $23 a quart for a lifetime supply of Mobil Jet Oil II is too much than just go to Walmart and pick up a $26 5 quart jug of M1 0W40 it works great for anything not quit artic blast and you can also mix it with grease to make liquid grease like US Army LSA of days gone by!
If used by it's self the M1 0W40 has a better additive package than the Mobil Jet II oil but the Jet II is full of super elite ester base oil that can take the extreme temptures of almost being in space all the way up to 400°C+ with out batting an eye. The Jet II really needs the EP additives in the grease to keep wear low outside of artic temp's. Ester's are do attract water so Jet II not a great idea for jungle of deep south or Coastal area's! Ester's are fantastic because you can create anything you want, they are very polar so they seek out metal and want to force other things off of the metal so they can bond and you can clean them easily with IPA because they are so polar.
I live in Michigan and have used plain Mobil-1 FS European 0W40 on everything from bolt guns to AR's to my cars and trucks with great results. Mixing with grease is mostly for my SS handguns and AR's in warm weather when I am going to be beating the crap out of them!
The Mobil Jet Oil II is a recent experiment. I am currently developing some new automotive products and started with Mobil Jet Oil II as an initial low cost feasibility study for a client before ordering up all kinds of base stocks and additive packages from Ornite, Vanderbuilt, Lubrizol and Cargill. I am now getting 55 gallon drums of various ester, pao and GTL base stocks arriving for formulation testing full scale.
One of my long time favorites for AR BCG's, SS 1911's and such is Mobil-1 0W40 combined with Mobil-1 Synthetic grease. I have used this combo for over 12 years. I started using M1 0W40 in everything I owned from I4 to V10 about 14 years ago. Prior to that I used either M1 5W30 or M1 15W50 which ever I had on hand and was using. I did not always use M1 grease though I used what ever I had on hand from Aero Shell to Sunco Moly EP prob. since about the 1990's even though I went to M1 synthetic oil in 1988.
Some of the best oil I have used for firarm storage have been various plant based oil since they formed a tough coating on the metal and deepened the blueing nicely but they had almost zero anti-wear properties so outside of storage alone I would never recommend seed oils or plant based oils. Not unless the seed oils or plant based oil have been reacted to form ester base stocks when no longer have anything in common with natural seen or plant based oils. Soy Based ME ester are a great example of a plant based product that has nothing in common with soybean oil after it has been made into a synthetic base stock.
Lanolin which comes from sheep is fantastic as a barrier to prevent rust as long as you do not intend to cook it or drag it behind an car or force it to lubricate metal parts. Better to be used for under coating of cars, lips and nursing mothers nipples.
The problem with rust prevention is one of no one wanting to develop and sell a product just for that purpose. Cheap man made sulfa compounds like what is found in cosmoline is great for that. It is nasty in every other way and does not prevent against wear and tear but it will protect against rust.
I have never had a problem with rust even when using cooking oil for storage in America. It is when you start asking a product to lubricate a gun, protect it from sweat and salt water or jungle environment for weeks or months at a time that issues arise. If you live in North America and are not a Navy Seal and you have rust issues with hunting rifles or duty weapons that are not military use you are just a lazy bump that needs to expect less and do more! This includes police officers that just have unrealistic expectations either because of military background or because they believe all the nonsense Glock puts out!
My Dad who was career Army is terrible with civilian fir arms especialy civilian shotguns and rifles. The idea that you need to actual oil a fir arm more than once a decade even if your not using it just seems to escape him!
Back in the late 1980's I tried BreakFree CLP at Ft. Benning around 1982. My Dad and I would drive around to all the motorpools and take a nail and puncture the drum they would throw out. We drained it into a metal can and would later put it in the large empty spray bottle my Dad had. We would also drive around to the motorpool trash cans and take a child cheater and scrape out all the tubes of Moly EP grease back when it was unobtanium on the civilian market. Once the motorpool had thrown it in the trash it was not stealing and was free game! I had Timkin bearings that I repacked ever 2 years from 1986 to 1998 that where still like knew and showed no signs of wear because of the free to me motorpool Moly EP grease.
Most wear and tear is due to either neglect or using sub standard lubricants!
For artic weather get a can of Mobil Jet Oil II run it straight but just for Artic blasts. For anything short of Artic blast's mix with the grease of your choice I like Mobile Synthetic Grease, Redline CV-2, Moly EP grease of your choice. You want to mix it until it has the consistency of just a little bit thicker than Extra Virgin Olive Oil your looking for US Army LSA type ligiid grease. Any grease is fine so long as it is an EP grease and so long as it is not bentonite based. You do not want a clay thickener in any grease used for a firearm or bearing.
If $23 a quart for a lifetime supply of Mobil Jet Oil II is too much than just go to Walmart and pick up a $26 5 quart jug of M1 0W40 it works great for anything not quit artic blast and you can also mix it with grease to make liquid grease like US Army LSA of days gone by!
If used by it's self the M1 0W40 has a better additive package than the Mobil Jet II oil but the Jet II is full of super elite ester base oil that can take the extreme temptures of almost being in space all the way up to 400°C+ with out batting an eye. The Jet II really needs the EP additives in the grease to keep wear low outside of artic temp's. Ester's are do attract water so Jet II not a great idea for jungle of deep south or Coastal area's! Ester's are fantastic because you can create anything you want, they are very polar so they seek out metal and want to force other things off of the metal so they can bond and you can clean them easily with IPA because they are so polar.
I live in Michigan and have used plain Mobil-1 FS European 0W40 on everything from bolt guns to AR's to my cars and trucks with great results. Mixing with grease is mostly for my SS handguns and AR's in warm weather when I am going to be beating the crap out of them!
The Mobil Jet Oil II is a recent experiment. I am currently developing some new automotive products and started with Mobil Jet Oil II as an initial low cost feasibility study for a client before ordering up all kinds of base stocks and additive packages from Ornite, Vanderbuilt, Lubrizol and Cargill. I am now getting 55 gallon drums of various ester, pao and GTL base stocks arriving for formulation testing full scale.
One of my long time favorites for AR BCG's, SS 1911's and such is Mobil-1 0W40 combined with Mobil-1 Synthetic grease. I have used this combo for over 12 years. I started using M1 0W40 in everything I owned from I4 to V10 about 14 years ago. Prior to that I used either M1 5W30 or M1 15W50 which ever I had on hand and was using. I did not always use M1 grease though I used what ever I had on hand from Aero Shell to Sunco Moly EP prob. since about the 1990's even though I went to M1 synthetic oil in 1988.
Some of the best oil I have used for firarm storage have been various plant based oil since they formed a tough coating on the metal and deepened the blueing nicely but they had almost zero anti-wear properties so outside of storage alone I would never recommend seed oils or plant based oils. Not unless the seed oils or plant based oil have been reacted to form ester base stocks when no longer have anything in common with natural seen or plant based oils. Soy Based ME ester are a great example of a plant based product that has nothing in common with soybean oil after it has been made into a synthetic base stock.
Lanolin which comes from sheep is fantastic as a barrier to prevent rust as long as you do not intend to cook it or drag it behind an car or force it to lubricate metal parts. Better to be used for under coating of cars, lips and nursing mothers nipples.
The problem with rust prevention is one of no one wanting to develop and sell a product just for that purpose. Cheap man made sulfa compounds like what is found in cosmoline is great for that. It is nasty in every other way and does not prevent against wear and tear but it will protect against rust.
I have never had a problem with rust even when using cooking oil for storage in America. It is when you start asking a product to lubricate a gun, protect it from sweat and salt water or jungle environment for weeks or months at a time that issues arise. If you live in North America and are not a Navy Seal and you have rust issues with hunting rifles or duty weapons that are not military use you are just a lazy bump that needs to expect less and do more! This includes police officers that just have unrealistic expectations either because of military background or because they believe all the nonsense Glock puts out!
My Dad who was career Army is terrible with civilian fir arms especialy civilian shotguns and rifles. The idea that you need to actual oil a fir arm more than once a decade even if your not using it just seems to escape him!
Back in the late 1980's I tried BreakFree CLP at Ft. Benning around 1982. My Dad and I would drive around to all the motorpools and take a nail and puncture the drum they would throw out. We drained it into a metal can and would later put it in the large empty spray bottle my Dad had. We would also drive around to the motorpool trash cans and take a child cheater and scrape out all the tubes of Moly EP grease back when it was unobtanium on the civilian market. Once the motorpool had thrown it in the trash it was not stealing and was free game! I had Timkin bearings that I repacked ever 2 years from 1986 to 1998 that where still like knew and showed no signs of wear because of the free to me motorpool Moly EP grease.
Most wear and tear is due to either neglect or using sub standard lubricants!
Ballistol is probably (I have not researched) the only CLP that does not have carcinogenics in it and is 100% skin safe. That to me is worth the smell!
Infrequent Shooter
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horses for courses?
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