Clickers in 284 win

[Tarmacshooter]

Just full length size and it should cure your problem. Your load isn’t your problem.

You would be incorrect.

As been mentioned. .502 reamer at the .200 line, a ring die or a custom sizer die to match your chamber.

I’m going the ladder. My issues aren’t cured yet but time will tell.

If you don’t know your reamer specs, it’s hard to point you in the correct direction. Cigarcop just posted 3 reamers for sale. My reamer matches his pretty close.

While I’ve seen 2 others that are .5009, .5029 and Alex Wheeler says for some brass and sizers, your chamber needs to be .502 at the .200.

I’d ask John Whidden what his sizer reamer specs are. And yes, I’m using a Whidden FL Bushing Die. Not for much longer. This is no disrespect to JW, it’s just his die no longer work for me.

 

[Coyotecreek]

Yep, I'm an Idiot.

What are clickers?

 

[Ringostar]

Yep, I'm an Idiot.

What are clickers?

It’s a problem that can happen with a tight chamber. If you don’t get your brass sized down enough on diameter, you can develop a click sound while extracting a fired case. I’ve had several barrels with no issue. My newest barrel was chambered with a different reamer, and I get constant clickers because my sizing die doesn’t reduce the base enough for the chamber. I just received my own reamer that will match my sizing die.

 

[Fire Dog]

Mine only took one firing.

I have a pair of .280AI rifles that have been chambered with the same reamer but have different barrels and actions and one has clickers from virtually the first reload and the other has never had any at 4+...
Any ideas???
The "Clicker" is a Blake barrel mounted in a Pierce action the other non-clicker is a Swan {made in OZ/Qld} in a Remington action.
Both shooting the same brass/batch {Peterson} same primers, same load/head space/AOL.

 

[Rook 6]

I have a pair of .280AI rifles that have been chambered with the same reamer but have different barrels and actions and one has clickers from virtually the first reload and the other has never had any at 4+...
Any ideas???
The "Clicker" is a Blake barrel mounted in a Pierce action the other non-clicker is a Swan {made in OZ/Qld} in a Remington action.
Both shooting the same brass/batch {Peterson} same primers, same load/head space/AOL.

Wow. That would eliminate any variables I would think off….other than maybe bolt face measurements? I’m grabbing thin air here…

 

[Fire Dog]

Wow. That would eliminate any variables I would think off….other than maybe bolt face measurements? I’m grabbing thin air here…

Will be putting my RollSizer onto the problem once the Blake barreled rifle is out of custom impound, registered and in my possession... Just back with last year's build + the clicker brass and some Berger 184's to get me through till next year's visit... Just wish powder and primers were allowable on air transport... I would be bringing in them as well! Cheers, Mate

 

[Sandstorm]

You could try some emery cloth on your chamber to slightly open up the base area only. ( or not ) have not tried this myself.
Better yet would be another die with tighter spec from the start before your brass gets a chance to expand would be my first priority Fire Dog.
your call Sir.

 

[Hohn]

You could try some emery cloth on your chamber to slightly open up the base area only. ( or not ) have not tried this myself.
Better yet would be another die with tighter spec from the start before your brass gets a chance to expand would be my first priority Fire Dog.
your call Sir.

A better option IMO would be a Flex Hone brush. The Flex hones have worked small miracles for me in the past on cleaning up chambers and even a FL sizing die. Lube them with motor oil as you use them.

They sell then in many different sizes and different abrasives and grits. I use the Aluminum Oxide 400 grit in a power drill. It removes material slowly enough to have excellent control (it’s really more of a polish/hone than material removal). It also leaves a *perfect* surface finish.

Grab a pin guage of the appropriate size and mic it to know exactly what it’s diameter is. Then you can flex hone until your chamber will accept that gauge to the depth you wish it to.

This is an easy process one can do at home with a drill, a brush, and some patience. You can control to well under 0.001” working by hand with no lathe or precision tools (except the gauging and mic).

 

[Mlow]

Whidden will fix his die if you pay him solve your problem get a good die

 

[Fire Dog]

Whidden will fix his die if you pay him solve your problem get a good die

I do have Whidden custom dies for my 6BRA and they work just fine... If things cannot be fixed otherwise, perhaps some cases in the mail to them and wait for a new die to replace the Redding Competition ones...

 

[No i deer]

Small base die will sort it

 

[Rook 6]

Small base die will sort it

I am becoming a fan of Cortina dies. Have two different calibers. No clickers, great results. He makes them tighter at the base.

 

[Fire Dog]

I am becoming a fan of Cortina dies. Have two different calibers. No clickers, great results. He makes them tighter at the base.

Have his 7PRCW one but putting the cases through the rollsizer has been the real cure...
As we used to say in my race car days.... "Speed costs money.... How fast do you want to go...??"
It is just as quick and easy as Erik shows in this video... Also has some sage advice about perhaps driving the cases too hard and to back off on the maximum velocities before damaging the cases... He managed to save hundreds of cases that he was about to discard and at the cost/availability of brass today that is worth the long term investment... Perhaps even go in with a friend or club purchase = rental.
I just C clamp mine to the bench so once I have finished it can be put away and out of the way.

 

[Ruger15151]

Whidden will fix his die if you pay him solve your problem get a good die

Whidden no longer makes custom dies.

 

[saunaking]

200.

 

[Dolomite]

Have his 7PRCW one but putting the cases through the rollsizer has been the real cure...
As we used to say in my race car days.... "Speed costs money.... How fast do you want to go...??"
It is just as quick and easy as Erik shows in this video... Also has some sage advice about perhaps driving the cases too hard and to back off on the maximum velocities before damaging the cases... He managed to save hundreds of cases that he was about to discard and at the cost/availability of brass today that is worth the long term investment... Perhaps even go in with a friend or club purchase = rental.
I just C clamp mine to the bench so once I have finished it can be put away and out of the way.

Did the OAL of the brass grow or the CBTO increase after rolling?

 

[REMINGTON JIM]

Use a Redding Small Base Die every other time.

yes the redding # 74141 small base die sloved my clicker problem too !

 

[McStocks]

As soon as I can get some photos taken, I'll describe the absolute positive way to solve the problem. Small base dies won't necessarily fix the problem.
Steve

 

[SeabeeKen]

Using Peterson Brass and Whidden Non-bushing dies. I just fired them for the 7th time. I anneal every firing and size only enough to bump the shoulders 2 thou everytime. Never had clickers/heavy bolt lift with this load before. I'm using an Impact action and it has a significant catch right before the bolt comes all the way up. Is this something I should get into contact with Whidden about? I don't want to just band-aid the issue and would rather have a more permanent fix.

The load I'm using is 49.2 grains of H4350 under a 180 grain berger hybrid. With my 26" barrel I'm getting right at 2710 fps. It has never been a hot load in my rifle, no ejector marks, cratering, or overly excessive case head expansion.

According to berger's manual, you are 2 grains over their listed max load. You are likely getting enough case head expansion to cause clickers. Back the load down and see if the problem goes away.

 

[Fire Dog]

Did the OAL of the brass grow or the CBTO increase after rolling?

Sorry about the delay in a reply but was locked out of the forum for 3 months for apparently posting a link to a fraudulent/SPAM site when I was trying to be helpful… No warning, no appeal…. {:~/
To your question, yes, the case lengthened just slightly but only needed me to readjust the bump on the die to get back to what I wanted.
The instructions with the Rollsizer mention that this can occur, 5 loads now and still not having to trim yet…
Definitely will fix a clicker problem… F Class John recently {within the past week or so} posted his own review of the product.
I am also hoping that as a side benefit it will slow down primer pocket expansion and thus extend the life of the brass...