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Clear coat for a laminated stock

Most local custom cabinet shops could do so as well...

The finishes we use regularly now are a metric crap ton better than anything you will ever find in a rattle can.

Think Heat resistance, moisture resistant, I’ve resistant, etc.

Not even remotely like the old nitro lacquer stuff that was popular not so long ago. Much better indeed.

Spaymaxx 2k in a rattle can is auto clear. It has a catalyst button on the bottom.
 
Spaymaxx 2k in a rattle can is auto clear. It has a catalyst button on the bottom.

I tried the Preval rattle can garbage system one time (where you mix your own whatever and then shoot in their container via their propellant).

As junky as that was at least you could control (adjust) your ratios and any additives you wanted to suit your spraying conditions.

This spraymaxx stuff sounds even worse than the Preval garbage.

457FE0E3-7F5D-4449-B2F4-B2902C8090F6.jpegB3480053-A2E1-4952-8E1F-27699EDDAD33.jpeg
 
I think I’m on my 4th or 5th big can of this particular Chemcraft clear product now.

Tested it most recently against dog vomit that sat on the finish for several days (bitch puked in her bed between the pillow and the wood and it was several days before I discovered and cleaned it up). Zero damage to finish...
 
Body shop is the best suggestion, They have all the best equipment, spray booth ( no dirt in finishing) n know exactly how to get the level of gloss u desire.
 
Body shop is the best suggestion, They have all the best equipment, spray booth ( no dirt in finishing) n know exactly how to get the level of gloss u desire.

Those spray booths are not really hermetically sealed ya know...

They are there more to exhaust the fumes and prevent them from building up (hazardous) than they are to keep fine specs of dust out.

Something small like a gun stock - I would not bother to turn mine on as there would not be enough overspray to be of concern.
 
At about $25 a can the spraymax is a fantastic DIY option. I use the crap out of it, especially in the colder months on small projects. Even more attractive if you want a matted down finish as it comes ready to go.

The 2k auto clears from a gun are a bit more labor and equipment intensive but you will get higher film builds and often fewer runs and sags (unless you get carried away). But to do something other than shiny you will need to add a matting agent.

always plan on wet sand and compound for a gloss clear to remove orange peel and dust / dirt unless you are painting in a very quiet environment.

Automotive paint booths literally spray sticky stuff on their walls and put down matting on floors (pig mat) to capture dirt and dust to keep it out of the finish on top of massive airflow through the booth.

If anyone wants to learn to wet sand and compound c’mon over. I’ll be starting this one momentarily IMG_7714.jpeg
 
I'm no expert I have done 6 stocks for myself, with different kinds of finishes and Spraymax 2k clear is by far the bast I have ever used. It is just about non scratch finish for a using gun.
 
At about $25 a can the spraymax is a fantastic DIY option. I use the crap out of it, especially in the colder months on small projects. Even more attractive if you want a matted down finish as it comes ready to go.

The 2k auto clears from a gun are a bit more labor and equipment intensive but you will get higher film builds and often fewer runs and sags (unless you get carried away). But to do something other than shiny you will need to add a matting agent.

always plan on wet sand and compound for a gloss clear to remove orange peel and dust / dirt unless you are painting in a very quiet environment.

Automotive paint booths literally spray sticky stuff on their walls and put down matting on floors (pig mat) to capture dirt and dust to keep it out of the finish on top of massive airflow through the booth.

If anyone wants to learn to wet sand and compound c’mon over. I’ll be starting this one momentarily View attachment 1753976
Tell us more about this car. Years and enging. She's a Bueaty.
 
Did a few stocks with the spraymax, it works but, it goes on like a fire hose, once you start the can you can't save any.

Ended up getting a Badger Crescendo air brush with a 1 mm nozzle. A quart of 2 part clear coat will do 15 to 20 or more stocks.

View attachment 1752693
Did you have luck in using an airbrush? It was big enough to do stocks reasonably well? Was cleaning the airbrush simple enough? When you say that once you open a can, you can't save any. Can you elaborate? That sounds utterly wasteful if you only want to paint something small. Does it require mixing hardener and a reducer, or is it "all in one"? If you have to mix it, I understand that you can't save what you mix.

Danny
 
Tell us more about this car. Years and enging. She's a Bueaty.

It’s a long story! 1964 Mercury Comet Cyclone. My dad brought it home as a project for us when I was like 15. I’m now 52. I took to apart when I graduated college in 1998 but got sidetracked for 20 years. In 2018 I started a full restoration. 3 years ago she was on a rotisserie. Other than do the machine work on the block and balance the rotating assembly I’ve done all work myself. Hopefully I have it done this year but I’ve been waiting on shop to rechrome a bunch of stuff for like 6 months now.

Engines is a sbf, 331 stroker motor. Made 506 @ 6600 rpm and 454 lb-ft @ 5000. Converted her from auto to 4 speed (close ratio) and from 8” to 9” rearend (4.11’s and a Detroit Locker).


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We found a matt / satin finish look really good and it is really slick in the bags…
 
It’s a long story! 1964 Mercury Comet Cyclone. My dad brought it home as a project for us when I was like 15. I’m now 52. I took to apart when I graduated college in 1998 but got sidetracked for 20 years. In 2018 I started a full restoration. 3 years ago she was on a rotisserie. Other than do the machine work on the block and balance the rotating assembly I’ve done all work myself. Hopefully I have it done this year but I’ve been waiting on shop to rechrome a bunch of stuff for like 6 months now.

Engines is a sbf, 331 stroker motor. Made 506 @ 6600 rpm and 454 lb-ft @ 5000. Converted her from auto to 4 speed (close ratio) and from 8” to 9” rearend (4.11’s and a Detroit Locker).


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Throw a 5 speed in her with .55 od and drive her. If it's a true daily driver.
that car needs a Lenko
thats some dang impressive numbers for a 331 ci
---
I had a '63 Comet, '63 Ranchero, a few others I almost wanna kill myself for ever selling also
had a '71 Cuda at one point and tripled my investment in it and still kick myself for selling
but when I got divorced there was no way I was gonna let my Ex get that car.
for some dumb reason, I have always kept my trucks though
I love my '70 series Fords
my landlord has brought it up a couple times "I dont want a junkyard!"
(my attitude is, HEY! YOU're not the one who lives here, those are assets, you're just more like the bank who owns the property !)
---
I think because i realized at one point, Muscle cars are a money pit
Trucks just keep running
---
Held onto my 1st Muscle car though, '67 Mercury Cougar XR7
needs some resto work now but
When I retire I need someplace to put my money haha
 

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It’s a long story! 1964 Mercury Comet Cyclone. My dad brought it home as a project for us when I was like 15. I’m now 52. I took to apart when I graduated college in 1998 but got sidetracked for 20 years. In 2018 I started a full restoration. 3 years ago she was on a rotisserie. Other than do the machine work on the block and balance the rotating assembly I’ve done all work myself. Hopefully I have it done this year but I’ve been waiting on shop to rechrome a bunch of stuff for like 6 months now.

Engines is a sbf, 331 stroker motor. Made 506 @ 6600 rpm and 454 lb-ft @ 5000. Converted her from auto to 4 speed (close ratio) and from 8” to 9” rearend (4.11’s and a Detroit Locker).


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Cam Specs?
 

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