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Cleaning with Abrasives and using Fire Lapping kits and warranty

FWIW.
I spun a 1/8" stainless steel rod [from Amazon] in a cloth covered with Iosso for 20 seconds. I did this three times after putting fresh Iosso on the cloth.
I measured the diameter of the rod in the area where it was contacting the Iosso before and after the three times. I used a Mitutoyo mic and took ten measurements each time.
All ten measurements post spinning were .0001 less than the measurements before starting.

=> no question Iosso removes some material.

I have no idea how that test translates to cleaning a barrel.
I saw that. I think it boils down to how the stuff is used and what price someone is willing to pay for it's effectiveness...or ease. I very seldom use abrasives but I won't say never. I just scoped the bbl I shot this weekend. I fired about 175 rounds without cleaning and won the 200 yard portion of unlimited class. Conditions were tough so it wasn't a day to really judge accuracy but after cleaning with traditional methods...no carbon ring and the bore is clean but has the start of some fire cracking and some discoloration from heat near the throat. Abrasives would probably get both looking good again but I will wait. It still shoots fine and the lands are still sharp. It ain't a beauty contest, to me. Lol!
 
FWIW.
I spun a 1/8" stainless steel rod [from Amazon] in a cloth covered with Iosso for 20 seconds. I did this three times after putting fresh Iosso on the cloth.
I measured the diameter of the rod in the area where it was contacting the Iosso before and after the three times. I used a Mitutoyo mic and took ten measurements each time.
All ten measurements post spinning were .0001 less than the measurements before starting.

=> no question Iosso removes some material.

I have no idea how that test translates to cleaning a barrel.
I saw that. I think it boils down to how the stuff is used and what price someone is willing to pay for it's effectiveness...or ease. I very seldom use abrasives but I won't say never. I just scoped the bbl I shot this weekend. I fired about 175 rounds without cleaning and won the 200 yard portion of unlimited class. Conditions were tough so it wasn't a day to really judge accuracy but after cleaning with traditional methods...no carbon ring and the bore is clean but has the start of some fire cracking and some discoloration from heat near the throat. Abrasives would probably get both looking good again but I will wait. It still shoots fine and the lands are still sharp. It ain't a beauty contest, to me. Lol!

Just remember it’s not so much how much you remove, as it where.

Basically trying to clean the copper and carbon out of nice square corners using a round tool with abrasives. In the beginning the sharper the corners are the more work to clean. As those corners round out, it’s easier to clean. Probably less bullets blowing up that way, may be a trade off?

Something else to consider is “bronze brushes”. I Stumbled on to some plated brushes
 
Just remember it’s not so much how much you remove, as it where.

Basically trying to clean the copper and carbon out of nice square corners using a round tool with abrasives. In the beginning the sharper the corners are the more work to clean. As those corners round out, it’s easier to clean. Probably less bullets blowing up that way, may be a trade off?

Something else to consider is “bronze brushes”. I Stumbled on to some plated brushes
Plated with what. I don't think I've ever seen plated bore brushes. It doesn't sound good to me.
 
Plated with what. I don't think I've ever seen plated bore brushes. It doesn't sound good to me.
I do not remember the brand, Otis comes to mind, but wouldn’t throw any one under the bus on that memory. Bought as a bulk pack, quite possibly a gun show vendor long time ago.

The giveaway was after the second trip down the bore. Run the brush through, unscrew it, run again. All the bristles were folded back. Cut a bunch of bristles off and picked them up with a magnet. Bronze or copper plated steel.

I’ve also seen nickel plated bronze. I don’t think that’s all that uncommon.
 
I do not remember the brand, Otis comes to mind, but wouldn’t throw any one under the bus on that memory. Bought as a bulk pack, quite possibly a gun show vendor long time ago.

The giveaway was after the second trip down the bore. Run the brush through, unscrew it, run again. All the bristles were folded back. Cut a bunch of bristles off and picked them up with a magnet. Bronze or copper plated steel.

I’ve also seen nickel plated bronze. I don’t think that’s all that uncommon.
Hmmm. I don't think I wanna find them but thank you.
 
FWIW.
I spun a 1/8" stainless steel rod [from Amazon] in a cloth covered with Iosso for 20 seconds. I did this three times after putting fresh Iosso on the cloth.
I measured the diameter of the rod in the area where it was contacting the Iosso before and after the three times. I used a Mitutoyo mic and took ten measurements each time.
All ten measurements post spinning were .0001 less than the measurements before starting.

=> no question Iosso removes some material.

I have no idea how that test translates to cleaning a barrel.
I think what is being said is, Flitz will polish a barrel too smooth, with extended use, over use etc
Flitz def polishes steel, in order to do that, metal must be removed to average out the surface finish
---
I never use Flitz inside of a barrel
and when I seen Iosso is about as good a Flitz on SS
I stopped using Iosso also.
I would rather take longer cleaning with chemicals than less time with abrasives
---
I think Rem Clean is diatomacious earth, which is an abrasive on carbon but not on steel
I have done some test patches on barrel stubs and looked at them with magnified Loupes to get a good idea what to use and not to use inside a bore.
 
I think what is being said is, Flitz will polish a barrel too smooth, with extended use, over use etc
Flitz def polishes steel, in order to do that, metal must be removed to average out the surface finish
---
I never use Flitz inside of a barrel
and when I seen Iosso is about as good a Flitz on SS
I stopped using Iosso also.
I would rather take longer cleaning with chemicals than less time with abrasives
---
I think Rem Clean is diatomacious earth, which is an abrasive on carbon but not on steel
I have done some test patches on barrel stubs and looked at them with magnified Loupes to get a good idea what to use and not to use inside a bore.
ABRASIVE only on carbon? But not on steel? SMDH!
 
Hmmm. I don't think I wanna find them but thank you.
You got me curious. Maybe it was brwnells, although these are not plated.

 
You got me curious. Maybe it was brwnells, although these are not plated.

I think those are a ss wire core but not the actual bristles. I may be wrong but I don't think I want plated bristles, was my point. On the core, it's likely fine there.
 
ABRASIVE only on carbon? But not on steel? SMDH!
What?
yes, does not also a bronze brush scrape out carbon but not scratch SS?
How many guys here remove the carbon ring with a drill and bronze brush?
---
Steel wool is another example, I can scrape off rust, carbon etc without hurting/scratching a blued finish
 
What?
yes, does not also a bronze brush scrape out carbon but not scratch SS?
---
Steel wool is another example, I can scrape off rust, carbon etc without hurting a blued finish
That's a rational point, to a point. But I can scratch polished metal with my clean fingertip, if that's where your point is headed. I mean, both are abrasive but not the same.

Point taken though. Good point. Thank you.

It doesn't negate the other crap though! :D


edit...sorry, that's in another thread!
 
I think those are a ss wire core but not the actual bristles. I may be wrong but I don't think I want plated bristles, was my point. On the core, it's likely fine there.
Sadly I don’t think it’s just core. It’s pretty clear, I think in the description. Kind of how got fooled. “Thinking nobody would do that”

Stainless Steel Bore Brush - For severely leaded, fouled or rusted bores, the aggressive cleaning action of a stainless steel brush can help get them clean. However, the aggressive action accelerates wear, and regular use can shorten barrel life.


SPECS:
  • Bristles: Available in stainless steel. Shank:
  • Steel, looped and wound.
  • Overall length: 3.27" (8.3cm)
  • Threads: .17 and.20 cal. 5-40 threads, all others 8-32 thread.
 
A company I buy barrels from has the buyer lap his own barrel and furnishes lap compound with directions on lapping. No big deal.
Using the tub process with lapping bullets is a different thing all together, the bullets with lapping compound are applying pressure to surface inside the barrel just like a sanding block on piece of wood, yeah, you going to get more wear. Lapping compound on a bristle brush does not apply enough pressure to the surface thus you not hurting anything buy doing so. I'd say the tub process is a last-ditch effort but if one thinks he needs to use it then something was wrong with barrel to start with.
 
Those gas to diesel engines made me a lot of $$ for a few years. I did so many block replacements or other repairs that it was easy to about 1/2 even the warranty times. Nobody else in the shop wanted to do them. Line 'em up sez I.

They didn't run that terribly & didn't smoke at all when set up right. The guy that worked next to me had one & we fooled around with pump timing, shimmed the governor, & a few other pump mods on his. It ran like a raped ape, but fuel economy went way out the window so we changed it back. There were different pumps... I remember something about a yellow paint mark on the governor cover being better. Thank the EPA for some of that mess.

That PCV over-run on oil fumes thing was addressed with a rather simple & quick to do recall. The 4 speeds had more get up & go than 5 speeds due to the gearing. Yes, the automatics were pigs. My dad was getting 51-52mpg on the highway, & it wasn't terribly piggish around town. He loved it after the 1200 mile service when it was set up right.
I had a one ton with a 6.2 that was not kind to head gaskets or heads. I did put a good water separator fuel filter on it when I bought it. It was a joke but it sort of worked for awhile.
 
I got to thinking about the test I did with the SS rods and Iosso - maybe the reduction in diameter was just from smoothing out the surface and, if the test continued, the rate of reduction would go way down.
So, I just redid the test on a fresh SS rod. As before, I spun the 1/8" SS rod in a cloth with Iosso for 20 seconds; each time I used a fresh cloth and fresh Iosso.
After each pass of 20 seconds, I measured the diameter of the SS rod where the Iosso contacted it with a Mitutoyo mic. I took measurements at 6 random locations around the diameter.

Here's the results:

1775595757530.png


I guess first is should we be comfortable that these results are meaningful? In reading others' comments about measuring below tenths, I wonder if the fifth decimal has any meaning? Are we comfortable with the measurements to the tenth's?

Assuming the tenth's are valid, it looks like the first pass smooths out/polishes the surface. After that, it looks like there is no further material removed.

What do you think?

To me this looks like the first pass with the Iosso polishes rough spots

ETA: When I pasted the table it looked fine. I just noticed that after saving the table got scrambled. Just replaced it with an image.
 
Last edited:
I got to thinking about the test I did with the SS rods and Iosso - maybe the reduction in diameter was just from smoothing out the surface and, if the test continued, the rate of reduction would go way down.
So, I just redid the test on a fresh SS rod. As before, I spun the 1/8" SS rod in a cloth with Iosso for 20 seconds; each time I used a fresh cloth and fresh Iosso.
After each pass of 20 seconds, I measured the diameter of the SS rod where the Iosso contacted it with a Mitutoyo mic. I took measurements at 6 random locations around the diameter.

Here's the results:



[td]
0

[/td][td]
1

[/td][td]
2

[/td][td]
3

[/td][td]
4

[/td][td]
5

[/td]​
[td]
0.11735

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11720

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11715

[/td]
[td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11720

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td]
[td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11735

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td]
[td]
0.11735

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11720

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td]
[td]
0.11740

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11735

[/td][td]
0.11720

[/td][td]
0.11720

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td]
[td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11730

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td]
[td]
0.11733

[/td][td]
0.11728

[/td][td]
0.11728

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td][td]
0.11726

[/td][td]
0.11725

[/td]​


I guess first is should we be comfortable that these results are meaningful? In reading others' comments about measuring below tenths, I wonder if the fifth decimal has any meaning? Are we comfortable with the measurements to the tenth's?

Assuming the tenth's are valid, it looks like the first pass smooths out/polishes the surface. After that, it looks like there is no further material removed.

What do you think?

To me this looks like the first pass with the Iosso polishes rough spots
Another very interesting test thank you.
What rpm were you spinning the rod at?
 
here is another I have here in the shop for show and tell.

308w barrel off of a tactical gun.

Guy cleaned it with Witchs Brew and a brush. Only 500 rounds on the barrel. I don't know how many times he cleaned it. Shot great when new.... now the bore and groove are basically a full .001" ovesize.

View attachment 1704645
Many years ago, the folks at PacNor barrels were kind enough to give me a tour of their shop. The other day I ran a cross the pictures. One of them shows the station where they finish lap barrels (button process) after rifling, stress relieving and contouring. There were several bottles of Witches Brew. If I find the picture again I will post it.
 

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