Cleaning Revolvers

[centershot]

I like shooting revolvers with lead bullets. Does anyone have a solvent or a system to make cleaning them a bit less painful? I was using Shooters Choice lead solvent and do not really see much difference.

 

[Timberyote]

I use a Hornady Turbo Sonic ultrasonic cleaner using the Lyman solution, which I found to be better than Hornady's.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I have been told by several handgunners to always shot a cylinder of jacket bullets after shooting lead and I will have no problems. I do not know if it really does keep the lead at bay but it is what I have always done and never had a problem. I would be interested in hearing from a handgun expert if this does in fact work.

 

[SSL]

I like shooting revolvers with lead bullets. Does anyone have a solvent or a system to make cleaning them a bit less painful? I was using Shooters Choice lead solvent and do not really see much difference.

Unless leading is severe, I've always had good luck using a patch soaked in Kroil and letting it sit for awhile. Follow with a good bronze brush and a few dry patches. Hoppes makes a lead formula, but honestly, I don't think it works better than my method.

 

[SSL]

I have been told by several handgunners to always shot a cylinder of jacket bullets after shooting lead and I will have no problems. I do not know if it really does keep the lead at bay but it is what I have always done and never had a problem. I would be interested in hearing from a handgun expert if this does in fact work.

I always heard this too, but I've also heard that it can merely 'iron' the lead into the grooves making it harder to get rid of. Lead has an affinity for copper, and I have noticed that a bore with traces of copper left behind will lead far worse than a bare bore. Just my experiences.

 

[mousegunner]

The cloth used to clean cylinder faces cut into patches works well. Just work it back and forth then a brass brush. It will strip bluing but worked good on a stainless 686 many years ago.

 

[AlNyhus]

The cloth used to clean cylinder faces cut into patches works well. Just work it back and forth then a brass brush. It will strip bluing but worked good on a stainless 686 many years ago.

This ^^^^^

 

[BDman]

I've not tried it but my friend swears by No Lead, from the makers of Wipeout. He started by trying it on an old .22 and then began using it on his .357's and .44's. He shoots a lot of cast bullets and says it's the best thing he's used.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Thanks for the reply. All I know is that for 4 yrs while competing in the Buckmaster TV Series I shot a lot of lead through a 6 in. 686 in practice. In good weather 100 rounds at pop cans at 100yds every night after work. I just sold that revolver and told the gentleman that out of all my revovlers including those I used in IHMSA, this was my most accurate. He called me several weeks after buying it to thank me. He said I have never had a revolver like this. I never did anything special to address possible leading except the jackets bullets at the end of every shooting session. I was really sorry to see the IHMSA go away in my area. I loved the standing disciplines.

 

[tmwinds]

I wrap a few shreds of Chore Boy pure copper pot scrubbing pads around a cleaning brush with solvent. It cuts the lead and won’t hurt the barrel.

 

[matthias]

Lewis lead remover tool. A couple swipes and its clean.

 

[biggun2869]

I have been told by several handgunners to always shot a cylinder of jacket bullets after shooting lead and I will have no problems. I do not know if it really does keep the lead at bay but it is what I have always done and never had a problem. I would be interested in hearing from a handgun expert if this does in fact work.

That is what I have always done too Jeff. Gary

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Lewis lead remover

 

[K22]

I've shot lead bullets for many years. There are two kinds of lead bullets that need to be addressed:

1. Soft lead swaged bullets designed primarily for target shooting such as the hollow base wadcutters which are extremely accurate. These are designed to be shot at low velocity with fast burning powders such as bulls eye and 231. I shot these in competition for many years and in a high quality barrel such as the S&W revolvers, there is very little leading. I often could go 500 rounds+ without cleaning and without loosing accuracy.

2. Hard cast lubed bullets can be shot at higher velocity but will lead the bullet more quickly. If velocities are kept somewhere around 900 f/s or lower within published data values, leading is minimized but will required cleaning more regularly. I use a lot of Oregon Trail Laser Cast bullets in 38 caliber loaded to about 950 f/s. I can get about 150 rounds before accuracy begins to drop off.

Bore Tech Rim fire blend work very well for me on my center fire revolvers shot with lead bullets if used with a bronze brush. This solvent is non-toxic and odorless.

I've use the Shooter's Choice Lead Remover, it worked for me well if used with a bronze brush about 20 stokes or so. Be careful with this solvent, it's highly toxic.

 

[cw308]

Lewis lead remover works great for the forcing cone and barrel . The Birchwood Casey Lead removing cloth is by far the best , as posted above will remove the bluing but on SS it wipes the lead off , never saw anything work so easy.
As for a solvent , Ballistol is my favorite only problem , my wife hates the smell. It does it All , in the warmer months I'll brake out the Ballistol and clean outside .
.

 

[FNSafari]

I like shooting revolvers with lead bullets. Does anyone have a solvent or a system to make cleaning them a bit less painful? I was using Shooters Choice lead solvent and do not really see much difference.

I'll add to the Lewis Lead Remover advice. Every couple hundred lead bullets, regardless of gas check or not but especially if not, I use a Lewis Lead remover. It cleans the barrel and forcing cone pronto. Brownells sells them. Please don't tell me a soft brass screen will damage a hard steel bore. Good luck with whatever method you decide on.

 

[AccelR8]

I wrap a few shreds of Chore Boy pure copper pot scrubbing pads around a cleaning brush with solvent. It cuts the lead and won’t hurt the barrel.

This is what I do. Works fast.

I had a Lewis Lead Remover back in the day but several moves later and not having shot revolvers for years it has been lost. My heirs will find it when I'm gone and say "What the heck is this for? Repairing damaged window screens?"

 

[Ken Lewis]

I used the Lewis Lead Remover tool for decades and it worked well. I now use bronze wool wrapped around an old bore brush. For me, that has worked even better.

 

[drano38]

I wrap a few shreds of Chore Boy pure copper pot scrubbing pads around a cleaning brush with solvent. It cuts the lead and won’t hurt the barrel.

This.
I wrap the bronze brush basically full of Chore Boy. The edges are sharp/strong enough to remove lead, but won't hurt the barrel. Did this for years when shooting a .45 auto with cast bullets for action pistol.
Use your favorite solvent to help, and act as a lubricant.

 

[Gun Smith]

If using mild target loads with soft lead (swaged), or hard cast, I found that crimping with the standard
roll crimp die was actually shaving lead, adding to the leading problem. I switched to a taper crimp for .38 and .357, .45 Colt, and reduced my leading problem to almost nothing. It seems the very mild target loads would not open up the brass mouth, and the belled over edge was scraping lead. Just my experience.