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Cleaning Carbon Ring from Throat?

Leaddog

F-Class T/R
Using a Lucas bore guide and Montana Extreme with a bronze bore brush. Is this enough or do you have a recommended method? Yes, I know a borescope will tell me what I need to know, but I don't have one.

What I have is Dasher brass that is a bit short and want to make sure that the throat is clean. Suggestions? Thanks.
 
I would add using iosso or jb bore paste as it is a light abrasive and may do a better job.
 
Brownells has a relatively new product.. The product(s) are felt type "pellets" that go on a special jag designed just for them.. You use those pellets in conjunction with JB bore paste and it really works on hard carbon! I use them on all my guns about every 200 or so rounds and my gunsmith's borescope indicates that I do not have any carbon fouling problem>>>IN ADDITION, he states that my fire-cracking is smooth and kept to a minimum! He checks my rifles quite often for me..
 
IOSSO is a very fine sharp abrasive that seems to cut carbon better than JB. If you don't believe that IOSSO is what I say it is, get one of those clear plastic disposable cups and rub some on it. (for that matter you can do the same thing with JB, they will both scratch it.) I am not saying that to be negative, but is is what it is, and yes I have read what their literature says, but I called them and after some discussion, the person that I spoke with agreed with me. I like JB for regular but infrequent use, I work few drops of oil into a patch, and then do the same with a little JB and then carefully short stroke in in the barrel, coming out of the muzzle only once, and with a little more attention to the back third of the barrel. I follow with some solvent patches to get it all out, and then some dry ones. Don't be fooled by these type cleaners turning black, they will do that on the clean outside of a stainless barrel. Depending on what I am trying to do, I use both IOSSO and JB on my best barrels...with care, and have been pleased with the results.

I would recommend that everyone give the felt pellets a try, they are very good for some tasks, I did a little research and found a jag that takes two, and retains them with a small nut. You have to look around, but they are out there. That way you can reverse in the bore without anything coming off.
 
my understanding is that the "carbon ring" as described by tony boyer is in the CHAMBER and not the "throat" which is usually considered a part orf the bore. the carbon in the bore responds to the mild abraisves (jb, iasso) and brushes while the ring of carbon deposited just in front of the case mouth is a different beast in that it seems harder, "baked on", and requires more effort to get out. a bronze brush pushed over this "ring" will in time get it out while a brush, bronze or plastic(tenex by hoppes) with a little jb/kroil spun in the fartherest end of the chamber will get this ring out...an establiched ring takes quite some time but once out a new ring is easier to get out...a borescope tells you everything. one thing i noted is after measuring a chamber's length (sinclair chamber plugs) and checking my brass's length, the difference is the length of the carbon ring. the shorter this gap, the less ring to get out, but i have to monitor ccase length very closely.
 
Donovan,
You had no way to know what kind of plastic cup. What I was talking about is the kind that are glass clear. They are not nearly as tough as the ones that you used. I am glad that you tried known abrasives. Good for you. I will look around to see if I can find one, without having to buy a whole bunch of them. When I do, I will do the test, take a picture, and post it, since I have the JB and IOSSO. Have a good day.
Boyd
 
Donovan, Boyd is correct that both JB & IOSSO are abrasive cleaners. The IOSSO is actually aggressive enough to slightly polish the bore of a SS barrel. Tony Boyer uses IOSSO with a brush (can't remember if bronze or nylon) to clean the carbon at the front of the chamber. If you have access to his book, I'm sure that is covered. Another product that I have seen mentioned a couple times lately is a carbon remover product from Stihl for cleaning the carbon out of small engines. The posters said that they were getting good results & the product is fairly inexpensive, so find some & give it a try. Also, IMO you should only use nylon brushes for cleaning with abrasives. IOSSO actually has their own line of nylon brushes for use with their product. Good luck & keep us posted on your findings.
 
Donovan,
I was not talking about dissolving the cup. The scratches are quite evident. The other poster is correct about IOSSO's potential for polishing a bore. I have seen this with a bore scope, and that is one of the reasons that I am cautious with its use. I know that if a barrel is polished inside, that it can increase jacket fouling.
Boyd
 
I used some JB past a couple weeks ago as I had only used copper killer and regular solvent for the first 300 or so rounds. Thought I might not be getting it all out. So tried good old JB. Bore scoped the barrel and it looked very shiny and not a spec of fouling anywhere in there. But I did give it a good scrubbing. Short stroking all the way down the barrel and especially the initial few inches and again paying attention about 2 in from the muzzle. I would say it worked. And plan on doing this every 200 rounds. I put some on a patch and then put a little bit of Kroil on with it. Seemed to work

Boyd/Donovan- so using IOSSO each time should help prevent as much fouling? And curious as to how many shots it takes after cleaning for the groups to settle back in to normal?
 
Donovan,

Boyd just called and told me about this thread. If you're going to quote me at least get it right. The abrasives I use are Iosso and Flitz. Iosso is my go to, slightly more aggressive than Flitz, bore polisher. I use them for the single purpose of removing carbon fouling and managing heat checking.

Dave
 
Super thread guys...with the best of the best. Wondering about the use of Flitz and where/when it would be best used on this topic.
Thanks all
 
I have played with Flitz, and looked at the result through a bore scope. I would not recommend it for jacketed bullet barrels for regular cleaning, because it polishes to a high shine very quickly, and this is not what you want. It will lead to an increase in jacket fouling. On the other hand, It may be that for a lead bullet application, that this would be different. Also, for spot polishing the neck part of the chamber, and just in front, it may have some use.
 
Could someone explain to me how a very smoth bore causes more copper fouling than a rough bore? Just seames to be backward to my layman thinking.
 
I did not say a rough bore is better for jacket fouling, but that if one makes one too smooth problems will result. If you get a chance, take a look through a bore scope, at the inside of a new Krieger barrel, with the benefit the 20x magnification you will see a very carefully calculated finish that has some slight texture, but is neither mirror smooth nor rough. To the unaided eye it appears smooth but not chrome shiny. Recently a very talented friend has been learning how to lap finished barrels, I think that it took him a couple of times of disregarding my advice not to make them too smooth to become fully convinced, but his is now, based on trial and error.
 
Boyd

Flitz will put a shine on it but does little to flatten out the surface removing the shallow peaks and valleys from the lapping compound . That shine probably goes away when after cleaning the second bullet goes down the barrel on top of powder fouling.

Dave
 

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