Cleaning carbon out of a suppressor

[Nomad47]

I was looking for a metal bread pan for soaking, but couldn't find one locally that would fit my 10" suppressor, then I ran across the aluminum foil one. Its only purpose will be for soaking my suppressor.

The PVC is an excellent idea - so I assume CLR won't eat the PVC.

Still wondering if anyone knows if CLR will attack the foil.

I left a small amount of CLR in the aluminum foil bread pan and after 2 days 3 pin holes developed.

I then built the 2" PVC with end cap. Put a 50/50 mix of CLR and hot water along with the suppressor in the PVC tube for 5 minutes. The mixture turned black. But the baffles are still stuck in the "can" tube.
That CLR sure is nasty stuff and I'll bump up the soak time to 15 minutes for my next go at it.

 

[dcali]

I don't have a suppressor, but Piston Kleen works great to soften up carbon in general. It's green (as in environmentally mild), but it actually works. $20/gallon on amazon. Just take a little soaking. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJZB6QK/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[roadkill61]

Well guys let me tell you that the SIMPLE and very quick way is to use plain old oven cleaner. About 3 minutes and mine are cleaner than new. No need to over complicate this.

 

[jdh47]

Do you submerge in oven cleaner? ( My can is welded so the parts are hidden.)Oven cleaner is a subject I've historically avoided.

 

[Nomad47]

Well guys let me tell you that the SIMPLE and very quick way is to use plain old oven cleaner. About 3 minutes and mine are cleaner than new. No need to over complicate this.

I think oven cleaner is a foam. Since most of my baffles (freeze plugs) are stuck in the suppressor tube, I would hesitate to squirt foam in there. I would be concerned with getting all of the foam back out.

 

[people]

Do you submerge in oven cleaner? ( My can is welded so the parts are hidden.)Oven cleaner is a subject I've historically avoided.

I use ton of this stuff. It is a foam but it does not really lift off the baked on stuff. It does make it very soft. If you could get a brush in after that and just rotate it with water I can see this working.

When you get burn on stuff on your oven or Pyrex using oven cleaner makes it come off but you need to wipe it off. Maybe a pressure washer would make quick work of this but I have not tried it on my oven or Pyrex.

After wiping the gunk free using water to give it a final cleaning does remove the residue.

As to my cans I like using them on my 300-221 and frangible ammo I do get some build up. If the stuff does not just shake out I will just use them on my bigger stuff. A couple mags of 308 clean them up good enough for me.

 

[Om606]

Yankee Hill will void your warranty if you use a sonic cleaner , FYI.

 

[Nomad47]

Yankee Hill will void your warranty if you use a sonic cleaner , FYI.

I wonder why that is.

In my case, my suppressor is a build your own (Form 1, ATF). I bought the tube and end caps, then made baffles from freeze plugs. So, obviously not worried about warranty.

 

[Milo 2.0]

I wonder why that is.

In my case, my suppressor is a build your own (Form 1, ATF). I bought the tube and end caps, then made baffles from freeze plugs. So, obviously not worried about warranty.

Post a pic of your suppressor, I have a neat system to get take apart cans apart, see if the same would do you any good.

 

[Nomad47]

Here are pics of what I have removed, plus pic of tube and one of baffles still stuck in tube.

 

[Milo 2.0]

Here are pics of what I have removed, plus pic of tube and one of baffles still stuck in tube.

My system will not work, yours way diff. Both ends of yours are threaded. Thanks Nomad

 

[Nomad47]

My system will not work, yours way diff. Both ends of yours are threaded. Thanks Nomad

No problem. I'm going to soak for 15 minutes in my PVC tube soaker, then try to drive out the remaining baffles. If still no go, then 30 minutes. If still no go, I figure that by that time most of the carbon will be gone and I will simply re-assemble and resume shooting.

 

[Milo 2.0]

No problem. I'm going to soak for 15 minutes in my PVC tube soaker, then try to drive out the remaining baffles. If still no go, then 30 minutes. If still no go, I figure that by that time most of the carbon will be gone and I will simply re-assemble and resume shooting.

Yes, good luck, cleaning a can should not be a 3 week ordeal though. Being in the raw, no coating, I would have sonic cleaned it to death, with a solution called Spartan High Acid, it's industrial clr, safe down the drain.

 

[XTR]

...called Spartan High Acid, it's industrial clr, safe down the drain.

No, actually it is not.

CLR is Lactic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Lauramine Oxide
Spartan High Acid is phosphoric acid.

 

[Milo 2.0]

No, actually it is not.

CLR is Lactic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Lauramine Oxide
Spartan High Acid is phosphoric acid.

Thanks for that, I stand corrected. I was going off recommendation of a friend, after 2 yrs, read the label, not a powder puff mixture, damn.

 

[Nomad47]

Yes, good luck, cleaning a can should not be a 3 week ordeal though.

Its actually not a 3 week ordeal although it does look that way. Its cold here. I'm retired. My reloading room is a heated room in a detached garage. So I go out in the cold to the room for a few minutes at a time for something to do. I don't care if it takes 3 months to get relatively clean, just so its ready for groundhog season next year.

 

[Knotwild]

Here are pics of what I have removed, plus pic of tube and one of baffles still stuck in tube.

Looks like you might have a corrosion problem sticking your baffles rather than a carbon problem based on your pictures. Maybe soaking in some Seafoam Deep Creep lubricant and a little heat would bring them out. When you put it back together coat the parts with Never Seize.

 

[Nomad47]

Looks like you might have a corrosion problem sticking your baffles rather than a carbon problem based on your pictures. Maybe soaking in some Seafoam Deep Creep lubricant and a little heat would bring them out. When you put it back together coat the parts with Never Seize.

You make a very good point. Where do I find the Seafoam Deep Creep?

One good thing about my type of suppressor - it is fairly easy to replace the baffles, provided I can get the old ones out. But I would need to wait for the Hearing Protection Act to pass before I make "repairs" to my can.

 

[Knotwild]

You make a very good point. Where do I find the Seafoam Deep Creep?

I get mine at the local NAPA auto parts store. I work on an island with salt water everywhere and I have found the Deep Creep works better for me than WD 40 or the other common brands. The Never Seize can be found aluminum or copper based and should protect it from seizing again, but I have never used it in conditions of extreme heat and pressure. I do know I use on on nuts and bolts exposed to the saltwater and they do not seize up.

Also, based on your pictures, it looks like you could find a piece of pipe, tubing, or even pvc that fits snugly inside the suppressor body and against the baffle. Soak the baffles really good. Then put the end cap on one end to protect the threads and the tube/pipe in the other end against the baffles. Then place the end with the cap on it on some soft wood and lightly tap the tubing inserted in the other end to break them free.

 

[ragsflh]

i would contact manufacturer first .bore tech carbon remover works for me