Choice of stocks

[1S2K]

With the factory tupperware stock on my Remington 700 sps Varmint, I recently averaged .297 for 3 consecutive groups of H. V-max 32 grain factory loads at 100 yards. I am pleased with the accuracy but hated the looks and feel of the factory plastic stock. So, instead of being satisfied, I installed an HS Precision stock and torqued the action screws to 45 in#. Shot 3 groups that averaged well over an inch at 100 yards! My tupperware stock was torqued to 35 in#. So, there is the difference in the torque on the stocks (I think HS recommends 45), the difference in the stocks, and the absence of the front "bump pad" in the HS stock which the original plastic stock had.
So my question is, "What would you do now?" Return to the tupperware stock? Or what can be done to get the HS stock to shoot like the tupperware?
This is my 4th HS stock and I really like them, but maybe I should learn to leave well-enough alone. Your thoughts will be appreciated. I'm going to shoot some more.
Maybe this rifle doesn't like being free floated?

 

[1S2K]

Sorry folks. I did not include that this rifle is chambered in the .204 Ruger.

 

[Preacher]

Put a little material in the nose of the new stock and see if it likes the pressure or not..
All the H&S stocks I dealt with needed a skim bedding to get them to shoot really good.

 

[hogpatrol]

I goofed & took the pressure point out of a Model 7 17fireball wood stock and it went from being a rifle to a shotgun patterning weapon. I made the switch to an aluminum bedded stock, put in a pressure point in the forearm and it's back to being a rifle.

 

[1S2K]

Thanks for those comments. Placing a small pressure pad near the end of the forearm of the HS stock was one of the things I considered. There is no comparison between the HS and the original stock so I really want to stick with the change I've made. I just have to find something that will work.

 

[flatlander]

I tend to agree about the positive effect of a pressure pad with lighter barrels. I built myself a 280 AI on a Howa long action a couple of years ago, and used a Krieger #5 sporter blank in a B&C Weatherby pattern Medalist stock. I know a Krieger #5 isn't a lightweight bbl - their catalog shows a typical #5 weighing 4lbs - but after I sanded the pressure pads out of the tip of the B&C's forend, what had been pretty decent accuracy went away.

 

[1S2K]

It worked great. I added 1/4" wide strips of aluminum tape just short of the end of the barrel channel in the HS stock, building it up enough to provide a "bump". Then I tightened the action screws to 35" lbs and fired three groups which averaged about 1" at 100 yards.
Not good. Then I tightened the torque to 45" lbs and fired three more groups. They measured as follows: .241, .061, and .217! And that was with factory Hornady 32 grain V-maxes. I think I've got a shooter.

 

[silverhawkII]

Hi all.

I am new to this and I do not shoot for the accuracy you all do. But your talking about using Alum. tape wich I have also done and it worked quite well.

Just a thought here, I used a Bug Hole Tuner and it really did the job.

Now if I am way out in left field take it easy on me. Plus I may lear something new.

Silver Hawk II

 

[hogpatrol]

Put a little material in the nose of the new stock and see if it likes the pressure or not..
All the H&S stocks I dealt with needed a skim bedding to get them to shoot really good.

Since my post on this thread I've bedded the action and barrel up to where the chamber taper stops. Made a HUGE improvement in accuracy.

 

[Larryh128]

Preacher is right on the $, very few stocks won't see a benefit from being skim bedded as Hogpatrol experienced.

 

[bheadboy]

in the same stocks i have used thin washers on the aluminum bed at screw hole and then skim bedded the action to 2" in front of the recoil lug, recol lug tight, then have bbl completely clear.

all the difference in the world,

bob