chamber reamer sharpen and set back question

[Shawnba67]

I have heard of having the reamer set back when you send it in to be sharpened? How far back do they normally go? could the set back let you go from a neck turn chamber to a no neck turn for less $than a new reamer? Or is it likely just a few thousanths thanks for the answers to my silly question

 

[BIG D]

Shawn I'm not a gunsmith but I do own my reamers. I use jgs and I just sent one out to them last week for this. The best advice I can give you is call whoever you want to regrind it and talk with them. Dave Kiff is the reamer scientist I'm sure he could steer you in the right direction. As far as costs go that can vary all depending upon how much they need to change the original specs. In some cases it's cheaper to buy a new reamer.

 

[WayneShaw]

I think Big D is right. If you think about it, if you are sharpening that edge, it will reduce in size. All you dimensions will get smaller, depending on how much "sharpening" it needs. So they grind the length of the reamer back and basically start over. You save the cost of the reamer material, but that's about it.

Maybe Dave Tooley will chime in, how knows reamers.

 

[pmarms]

I've had several re-grinds done by Kiff and Manson - all came out great. When I switched to separate throating reamers a several years ago, I needed to remove the freebore from almost all of mine. (annoying process, but cheaper than creating new reamers). Every one I sent - I had them check the edges. ALL of them that needed any edge work had enough body taper such that the reamers didn't seem to "shrink" as one would suspect. Just like one guy said - the area around the pilot gets relatively "longer", and the shoulder gets set back however much it needs to be within spec. I trust "The Daves" on about anything reamer related, so just call and speak to one of them (prolly have to leave a message) and they will not steer you wrong. I believe they charge a flat rate of about $80 for a "re-grind" and that covers large to small changes. I have no problems recommending re-grind over a new reamer.

Also - you didn't ask, but I will tell you that you can save re-grind money by investing in a small triangle stone that will just fit onto the cutting face of the flutes - NOT the outer edge - but the face. When I get within .050" from full depth or so on a chamber, I lightly polish the faces of my reamer. I learned this from Gordy Gritters - and I'm not sure how many re-grinds it has saved me. Of course, Gordy has (prolly still has) the extremely thin, flat stone he got from a guy at Clymer years ago, but the triangular stone from Brownell's does great. You just need to remember that you don't want to bottom out one of the stone's corners on the actual shank surface in the center between flutes. It doesn't take much effort at all. Technically, if you stayed on one the cutting faces of the flutes waaay too long, you could end up reducing the diameter of the outer cutting surface since it is relieved on the back side - but I can't imagine how long that would take.....a while. In good lighting, you can see dull spots with the naked eye.

Hope some of this helps.

 

[Rustystud]

Call Ken or Cary at JGS great folks to work with.
Dave Manson does great regrinds also.

There is a new to gun chamber reamers grinder in Wisconsin. Call Seth Pillard, at Thompson Grinders, Ionia WI.