No a screw is always a screw up. Regardless the size . LarryYour right, but in my very limited experience larger machines are more forgiving if you screw up
No a screw is always a screw up. Regardless the size . LarryYour right, but in my very limited experience larger machines are more forgiving if you screw up
Not sure what you mean by that statement?Your right, but in my very limited experience larger machines are more forgiving if you screw up
Not sure what you mean by that statement?
It means you can 'screw-up' on a big heavy lathe just like you can 'screw-up' on a smaller one! See, just like you can 'screw-up' when posting.No a screw up is always a screw up. Regardless the size . Larry
Yeah ^^^ About any decent size lathe you get will come with the metal stands. The heavier the better when you are looking. If the stands are options and you wanna make your own make them of steel.A wood stand is not a good idea.
Many thanks for the many comments. I think Rustystud about tossed me over the hurdle.
Maybe pick me up a basic Tiwain lathe and put the breech over the steady rest, and give it a go.
Am thinking of an extremely heavy oak table (DYI) to set the thing on. Is that another bad idea?
Seems like the wood would dampen the vibes of the beast, but you always see metal stands in the
lathe catalogs.
There is a reason why most serious tool room lathes have cast iron bases, for rigidity. The heavy base helps dampen vibrations. During WWII small shops used concrete for the bases of small light duty lathes like the South Bend 9" to make small parts for the war effort. They could not match the long heavy saddles and ground lead screws of the Rivett and Monarch but they could get the best performance out of their lightly constructed machines with a heavy vibration dampening base.
The thin sheet metal bases that come with the cheaper oriental lathes are not too rigid. Whatever you make the base out of should be designed with rigidity in mind.
Joe
With the prerequisite of successful completion of "Basic Machine Shop" or equivalent experience or instruction. These classes are offered at all the schools that participate in the NRA Summer Gunsmithing programs. If you are thinking of attending any of these classes, don't hesitate when notified they are 'available', 'cause they fill-up quickly.You might want to enroll next summer in some NRA classes at Murray State College, gunsmith program. I think there is a class on re-barrel.
I have been thinking about doing barrel work myself, and have a better feel for what is needed after spending time with a tool and die maker, and two others with lathes and mills. It WILL be costly, if you wish to use quality equipment of sufficient size to do the job well. A good friend has a 14" 3500 lb. Goodway lathe and it can handle barrel work easily. Big enough, heavy enough. I think experience is critical. Nothing like feeling the cut through your hands, so you know what is happening. Robert Gradous Rifles will let you build your own rifle (one of his standard builds) at about $4,500), by enrolling in his 3 - 4 day class while you build your own rifle. According to those who have attended, Robert may put you through 25 dry runs on the lathe with barrel chambering and has two barrels on hand in the event one gets screwed up.
Go here to see what is involved. http://shortactioncustoms.com/videos-2/
This stuff is not trivial or for a novice. I surely would want a scrap barrel to practice on, but reamers do not last forever and will need sharpening, another cost. Some gunsmiths sell specialty tools to improve the process. For instance,
http://www.straightshotgunsmithing.com/page25
With lots of lathe time, excellent equipment, you could do a top notch job I think. Chamber a quality barrel, screw into a good-to-go action and stock, and see how she shoots. There are people out there with quality barrels, but with shot out throats, that you could set back and try to rechamber. You can learn threading on any piece of bar stock, but best on same material as barrel. You can try crowning.
Lots to learn for sure, but others have. So can you.
Phil
Phil,
A lot going on about Robert Gradous on the 24hr Campfire forum http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/11157818/1
I've only visited with him by phone a few years ago and he was pleasant.
A Goodway is a good heavy lathe. Some are too short to chamber in the steady and the headstock is too long to do them in the headstock.
What tools do you need?That's what I did. If by cheap you mean 5000 for the lathe and 5000 more to tool up, then go for it. I didn't do it to save money cause you won't. I did it to be able to do it when I want/ need it. Also check out the PM machines