Chamber flush system build log.
- Thread starter LVLAaron
- Start date
xr650rRider
Silver $$ Contributor
It doesn't have an acorn nut on pump casing? Most, you remove that cap and RV adjustment is under it. I just bought a package of springs at local Ace Hardware that was close to same diameter with smaller wire. Nipped off a little at a time until it bypassed at 60 psig against a closed valve.
xr650rRider
Silver $$ Contributor
It's kind of a safety feature that it relieves at a pressure that won't F-something up if you ass up and close your bypass valve and you deadhead pump. Some of those plastic filter housings are only rated for 60 psig. I've got a spin on metal housed filter but it might split at 100 psig. The carbonator pump I have will put up 250 psig. If I backed the adjuster all the way out with factory spring, pump still put out 150 psig.
Gene, What is your coolant/lubricant? Looks like "Trim."
BuffaloBill
Silver $$ Contributor
I’d read a discussion thread on this topic years ago, where someone showed the use of a pressure relief valve, to set the max flush pressure available to the barrel. That made so much sense to me so I built mine that way.
Rather than using a ball valve to restrict flow, loading the pump against a higher-pressure built-in relief, this only loads the pump to the pressure you set. The volume of fluid not passing through the barrel dumps to the tank. I read some people’s concern about a pump being capable of too much pressure, etc. A valve like this allows the system pressure to be as low as you want it, assuming the adjustment range of the valve is appropriate. I looked back through my purchase history for the valve I used but have not found it yet. In the below pic the adjustable relieve valve is at the lower right hand corner of the tank.
Nothing I invented; just passing on what‘s already out there.
Rather than using a ball valve to restrict flow, loading the pump against a higher-pressure built-in relief, this only loads the pump to the pressure you set. The volume of fluid not passing through the barrel dumps to the tank. I read some people’s concern about a pump being capable of too much pressure, etc. A valve like this allows the system pressure to be as low as you want it, assuming the adjustment range of the valve is appropriate. I looked back through my purchase history for the valve I used but have not found it yet. In the below pic the adjustable relieve valve is at the lower right hand corner of the tank.
Nothing I invented; just passing on what‘s already out there.
I use Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS.
BuffaloBill
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks for the kind words! I’ve always enjoyed the building of something just as much as the using of it. Have fun with your build.
Several of you have built very nice systems and posted great links to kits and parts. Using your suggestions, I picked up the following:
Many of you thought the 1/8 HP motor would be marginal and you were right. It works but you have to go slow. I was able to cut a .308 chamber with 5 primary plunges and 2 finishing plunges. I only pre-bored an inch of the barrel as I could easily reach the freebore area with a relatively shot probe.
As you’ll note from the shopping list above, I didn’t do any fabricating - only using readily available parts - several of them were somewhat overpriced.
Was it worth it? HELL YES! The Astro Swiss as others have said has no unpleasant oder and cuts a beautiful chamber. It took 45 minutes to make the first 5 plunges. The next two took more time as I took the BTS coupler off, blew out the barrel and fitted the action. An hour and a half for the complete job. It used to take me approximately 3 hours to chamber after dialing in.
I have ordered a 1/4 HP pump, but even without the expected increased flow, this setup is a huge improvement over stopping, blowing off the reamer, blowing out the barrel, re-oiling…repeat.
Thank you all for a great thread and the motivation to assemble my own.
Henryrifle
- GRE-TAN Model BTS
- Penn Tool Co. National 3 Gallon Coolant Pump NW55CP3 kit
- MSC 5 Gallon Pail of Astro Swiss
- Amazon Aluminum 9x5.3x2.75 Loaf pan
- Amazon 1” Flood Tray Fill Drain Fitting
- Amazon 1”x25’ High Pressure Braided Tubing
- Amazon Foot On/Off Switch
- Amazon Transmission Fluid Pan Magnets (4)
- Amazon Neodymium Magnets (6)
Many of you thought the 1/8 HP motor would be marginal and you were right. It works but you have to go slow. I was able to cut a .308 chamber with 5 primary plunges and 2 finishing plunges. I only pre-bored an inch of the barrel as I could easily reach the freebore area with a relatively shot probe.
As you’ll note from the shopping list above, I didn’t do any fabricating - only using readily available parts - several of them were somewhat overpriced.
Was it worth it? HELL YES! The Astro Swiss as others have said has no unpleasant oder and cuts a beautiful chamber. It took 45 minutes to make the first 5 plunges. The next two took more time as I took the BTS coupler off, blew out the barrel and fitted the action. An hour and a half for the complete job. It used to take me approximately 3 hours to chamber after dialing in.
I have ordered a 1/4 HP pump, but even without the expected increased flow, this setup is a huge improvement over stopping, blowing off the reamer, blowing out the barrel, re-oiling…repeat.
Thank you all for a great thread and the motivation to assemble my own.
Henryrifle
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Instead of taking the coupler off to blow out the barrel and fit the action... I just stop everything, take a breath and let the oil run out. Then I run a large patch on a pistol cleaning rod as far as it will go into the chamber. That'll get it clean enough to test fit things without getting them all slippery with oil.
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DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
T in an airline with a foot valve. Never have to disconnect the coupler. Blow oil out, insert air nozzle to the front of the chamber and blow out, swab out then take a HS measurement. Easy Peezy
BTW hold a cup over the barrel when you step on the foot valve. If you don't it's not pretty.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I suggest not using a cup, one time, so you can get a good laugh at yourself.
So I was excited to get use my home flush system yesterday. Had a barrel to chamber for one of my 1K BR rifles. It's going to be a 22 lb NBRSA light gun, and it's a 1.35" straight barrel.
Well, my BTS is only 1.31" inside diameter and didn't fit. I rarely get straight taper barrels. I usually have them tapered to 1.3" max. My barrels will be 1.25" max at the muzzle from now on.
Well, I could have bored the inside of the BTS a few thousands, but I already had the barrel dialed in, it was late, and I needed to get it done. Besides it was a 6 BRA which is a short chamber.
I actually found a decent non-flush method. I started by washing off the chips with the BTS, but found a better way.
I would cut .050" at 140 RPM, pull the reamer, brush off chips with an acid brush, then squirt the Astro Swiss in the chamber with a med small syringe. Having the pan of 1/3 full of fluid and the syringe were what made this faster than my old non-flush system.
It worked great, and I had the chamber done in 30 minutes. Unlike at work, where I pull the flush and look with the borescope right after the shoulder starts cutting, and then again at .250" remaining; I kept cutting using the above method until .080". I cleaned out and borescoped the chamber, then started cutting again until .010" remaining, then took a final measurement and made the final cut. The chamber looked great.
The pic below shows my system. I was surprised.
Well, my BTS is only 1.31" inside diameter and didn't fit. I rarely get straight taper barrels. I usually have them tapered to 1.3" max. My barrels will be 1.25" max at the muzzle from now on.
Well, I could have bored the inside of the BTS a few thousands, but I already had the barrel dialed in, it was late, and I needed to get it done. Besides it was a 6 BRA which is a short chamber.
I actually found a decent non-flush method. I started by washing off the chips with the BTS, but found a better way.
I would cut .050" at 140 RPM, pull the reamer, brush off chips with an acid brush, then squirt the Astro Swiss in the chamber with a med small syringe. Having the pan of 1/3 full of fluid and the syringe were what made this faster than my old non-flush system.
It worked great, and I had the chamber done in 30 minutes. Unlike at work, where I pull the flush and look with the borescope right after the shoulder starts cutting, and then again at .250" remaining; I kept cutting using the above method until .080". I cleaned out and borescoped the chamber, then started cutting again until .010" remaining, then took a final measurement and made the final cut. The chamber looked great.
The pic below shows my system. I was surprised.
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DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Absolutely hate the 0.050 peck, clean, lube PITA. I’ve been following closely and putting together a system as cheaply as possible. It’ll be low pressure using a freebie Jabsco utility pump hopefully running 10-15ish psi. Scored a 5 gal pail of Hocut 795B for $100 from a local classified, a $50 Deublin union, $40 Hamilton 0-250psi regulating bypass, and $20 filter. The rest is just whatever I can cobb together from the crap I have laying around.
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