Chamber finish

[hoz53]

Even if you pre bore, the edge of the shoulder on the reamer will still have to cut almost the whole length of the chamber. So that part of the reamer will dull no matter what we do. I have never had to send one in to be resharpened so I dont think it dulls tnore hem any faster. What will dull any tool fast is heat, I do use a flush system with cutting oil.

Ignore the bushing, it does nothing if your indicated right. Indicate the bore right and you can take the bushing off.... If you dont indicate the bore properly the bushing may help some, but you will still end up with an off center throat... So my advise is never rely on the bushing for anything.

Ok I was thinking if youve indicated the bore right and you're using a floating reamer and you bored the chamber mabie the pilot wouldn't align with the bore when it got there. I know the shoulder would act to center the reamer up in the bored hole. How well I don't know. Thanks

 

[hoz53]

Yes it is the conversation I was looking for. More in fact. Hitting the chamber with 320 is the information I am looking for. How do you apply the 320 paper ? In particular the neck and do you alter the chamber dimensions any.

I cut a slot in the end of a wood dowel rod and wrap through the slot and around the dowel

 

[hoz53]

like what Alex said if your getting grooves in the chamber, your more than likely rolling a chip over the cutting edge. Not good In my experience. Take your time and practice on a cheap take off barrel. Cut the chamber off and chamber a few ways. I did this as mentioned by someone else when I was first starting and it helped me figure out my routine for chambering a barrel. If you want some cheap old take off barrels I have a few you can have for the price of shipping. Just P.M me

I like the idea of using that center piloted drill bit that Alex had mentioned in a few posts earlier. I'm going to order one and give it a go.

I normally don't prebore or anything. I use a coolant flush system from start to finish with a piloted finish reamer. I cut about .100" the first few reaming's then once I'm about half way I cut it down to .050" (half a turn on my talkstock) With the flush system I found this is were the flutes of my chamber reamers are not loaded up and I retract the reamer and flush off the reamer with the pump. Then go back in, its very fast and affective for my setup. But it took me a few ways of doing it to get to that point.

That's good info--I was wondering how much people take with a flush system before cleaning the chamber/reamer. Thanks

 

[Tim Singleton]

Chip rolling over flutes leaving tiny grooves is the bane of my existence
Is this inconsistent and or not enough feed pressure?

 

[savagedasher]

Hold the reamer and it will never happen again. You'll feel as soon as something is not right. If your holder is influencing the reamer, it will cut on one side and you can get a chip under the flute on the other side. If a flute clogs with chips that will groove a chamber too. Also watch for built up edge on the reamer and stone it off. If you hold the reamer I think it would be damn near impossible to screw one up...

Best advice I can give
You better not think.
Never is not in machine work Larry

 

[savagedasher]

I think I know what your saying.... If you hold the tool you can feel everything. If you have done it then you know.

I also know some times you can find a unkowen problem that arises . So never say never . Larry

 

[Tim Singleton]

Very true....

I do hold the reamer handle. I guess I have been letting the flutes load up a fair amount. I don't have a flush system of any kind. I oil the chamber oil the reamer, advance til I see shavings coming out with draw blow clean the reamer and bore re oiled everything and go again. The flutes are usually loaded up

 

[martin22250]

I do hold the reamer handle. I guess I have been letting the flutes load up a fair amount. I don't have a flush system of any kind. I oil the chamber oil the reamer, advance til I see shavings coming out with draw blow clean the reamer and bore re oiled everything and go again. The flutes are usually loaded up

I do the same as tim, but use the reamer for the whole chamber, I take .050 thou then blow clean and reoil and then take .010 or so passes for the last .050 thou. It's slow but works goof, if I let the flutes get to full it scores the chamber

 

[Hal]

Unless your handier than the average bear I would be careful about stoning a reamer. You need a sharpening jig.
The cutting edge on some reamers is only about .002 - .003 wide.

Hal

 

[ridgeway]

Good old copper penny will break off any SS build up on flutes...

 

[Tim Singleton]

Good old copper penny will break off any SS build up on flutes...

I talked with my buddy Jerry a while ago. He told me the exact same thing. Ran my finger nail down the cutting edgEs sure enough one of them had some rough places. The penny took care of it in short order

 

[Hal]

Alex

That's what I thought. I thought I would clear it up.

Hal

 

[ridgeway]

Unless your handier than the average bear I would be careful about stoning a reamer. You need a sharpening jig.
The cutting edge on some reamers is only about .002 - .003 wide.

Hal

What are you referring to that is .002"-.003" wide? If you are referring to the primary and secondary lands(the 2 flats you see on OD)...try .020"-.030" on a primary and .040"-.050" on secondary...depends on who makes it. They don't do the cutting...that is relief.

 

[ridgeway]

You dont stone the OD of the reamer. The face of the flute where the buildup occurs is where to stone.

Be careful stoning by hand...quite easy to add negative angles to the face...especially if your stone isn't perfect. The more you stone...the more it wears. May not see it with your eye, but the comparator will tell the tale.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

To resharpen, best to send it out to the edumacated ones IMO

 

[skeetlee]

I pre bore always. using the reamer for the entire chamber can cause a fat ass end. i also use a proper fitted bushing always. reamers will and do flex.
I bore my chambers so that the reamer only cuts .007 per side. i bore as deep as i can.
you never want to start a reamer with an unsoported reamer bushing. if you do you will have a chatter issue on your hands. You have to support the bushing.
I think the most important part of boring a chamber is to double or even tripple check the throat with your test indicator directly in the throat area before you ream and most certainly before you bore.
If you pre bore properly, you can cut 3/4 or more of the chamber in one pass without having your flutes load up. never let your flutes load up.
I use a flush system on the larger chambers, but i usually dont on the smaller chambers. the way i pre bore the smaller chambers, there really isnt any need. i cut very little with the reamer, so i dont ever have a problem. lots of ways to approach this. i guess a guy just needs to find what works for himself.
For me, ill never again in my life use a bald eagle type pusher. i hate them with a passion. all the pushers ive ever used would side load and flex on you in a hurry. i have even placed indicators on my reamers while pushing to verity. never again. lots of fellas use them, but not me!!! i use a ptg inline floating holder. my chamber work greatly improved the day i made the change.
As far as finish. my ptg holder leaves a mirror finish, so i have to usually go in with a piece of grey scotch brite to give the chamber some cross hatching. works well. i will also go in and buzz the leads a bit. i very rarely have barrels with copper issues, so i think its worth doing. lee