Carbon ring cure...

[DShortt]

I have also found Varget to be one of the worst for leaving carbon deposits. Wish there was an alternative that shot as well without the deposits.

 

[rsbhunter]

Thanks for the heads up ! I guess the really isn't any pixie dust that gets rid of the dreaded carbon ring, except for some elbow grease...Thanks for all the info. rsbhunter

 

[rsbhunter]

Dshortt, exactly !!!! Was hoping someone had the magic powder, but as carbon is a natural by product, we're stuck with it...rsbhunter

 

[nakneker]

Can’t help you rsbhunter with a better powder choice to Reduce the affects of carbon. I’ve had good luck with bore tech carbon remover, on carbon rings, brakes and suppressors. It’s much easier to remove if you don’t procrastinate the cleaning session after the firing session but I think you already know that listening to you.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

No such thing.

I have had a couple barrels that cleaned up much, much easier than all the others. Just with brushing with bronze brush, only had to use an abrasive a couple times in over 3000 rounds.

AGREE with THIS ^^^ SOME Barrels, do clean easier !
I Polish the throat area and Bore ( Lightly break edge / De-Burr the sharp, Rifling edges ) with JB's slathered on a Patch, over a Bronze Brush and polish the Newly cut Throat area by "short stroking" the Throat 6-7 times then, all the way thru Bore 8-10 passes ( One way ) to polish on ALL my Factory Tikka, Remington and Criterion Barrels. Then, I do a careful, shoot 5 clean, shoot 10 clean, Barrel break in routine & DONE ! My Factory Barrels shoot awesome and clean,.. EASILY ! They look like they've been Chrome Plated, on the insides and a few Wet ( Barnes C-10 using a 20 Minute, "soak" ) Patches get them, clean again.
I clean about, every 60-75 shots thru barrels to avoid, Carbon and Copper build up.
These methods seem, to "Work best" for,. Me

 

[J.d. Popkes]

Been trying to get folks to try it for several years. Talked to the owner at length about it before I tried it. I tested a dozen or more cleaners over a 2 yr period and flitz was the ticket. Only had to use an abrasive in the throat or bore on 1 horrible bore. Flitz green liquid in the same stuff as the bore cleaner but cheaper with a different label. I asked the owner

Flitz is an abrasive, pretty sure..

 

[RAG]

My choice after many years would be CLR bathroom cleaner. Use it like wipeout on bronze brush many strokes to lather. Wipe out. No carbon problem. Best done ASAP after shooting while gun is warm. Try it once and you will not regret it.

Agreed. I do a lot of high volume varmint shooting, with ball powder (which I like for this purpose but it does tend to deposit a lot more carbon than hot stick powders). The ONLY thing that really works with ease for me is CLR on a bronze brush. I'll stoke the entire barrel, and sometime use oversized bronze brush on a handle just like Urbanrifleman stated above. It will remove the heaviest/thickest of carbon with ease, and then I shine up the steel with a few patches of bore paste to finish things off.

 

[RAG]

All I can say is that my PPC with N133 carbon fouls significantly less than my 6 BR and Dasher with Varget. R15 produced more black stuff than anything else I've used, but a representative told me part of the "black" was and additive of some sort. I plan to experiment with N140 and N150.

And my 22BR accumulates carbon at 3x the pace my 6BR does, using the same Xterminator powder. Just being that little bit more overbore (or maybe it's a lot more overbore) seems to make a huge difference.

 

[RAG]

Have any of you guys tried the Fritz bore cleaner. The green stuff. Tried it for the first time about a month ago. This stuff really works great for all fouling, copper, carbon etc. If you haven't tried it would be worth your while to give it a try.

Is this what you are referring to, or something else?

 

[DShortt]

I tried CLR in a barrel in very poor and dirty condition. The only thing I noticed it removed was the rust. It was a takeoff from a very abused and neglected rifle. Nothing that anyone would consider using again.

It did not affect the carbon or copper deposits in any way I could see with my borescope.

 

[1911nut]

Is this what you are referring to, or something else?

This

 

[SeabeeKen]

Flitz is an abrasive, pretty sure..

The green liquid s not abrasive. The blue paste has a grit so fine it isnt even classified as an abrasive (6000) grit

 

[SeabeeKen]

Is this what you are referring to, or something else?
View attachment 1459576

Thats it, the green stuff. Just cleaned my glock bore with it 30 min ago. It is the stuff that has the bore cleaner label also

 

[Murray Brook]

Is this what you are referring to, or something else?
View attachment 1459576

No It's what @1911nut posted. I find this to be about the best I have ever used.

 

[SeabeeKen]

Agreed. I do a lot of high volume varmint shooting, with ball powder (which I like for this purpose but it does tend to deposit a lot more carbon than hot stick powders). The ONLY think that really works with ease for me is CLR on a bronze brush. I'll stoke the tire barrel, and sometime use oversized bronze brush on a handle just like Urbanrifleman stated above. It will remove the heaviest/thickest of carbon with ease, and then I shine up the steel with a few patches of bore paste to finish things off.

CLR etching the metal, its an acid as I recall.

winning n the wind CLR video at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[RAG]

I tried CLR in a barrel in very poor and dirty condition. The only thing I noticed it removed was the rust. It was a takeoff from a very abused and neglected rifle. Nothing that anyone would consider using again.

It did not affect the carbon or copper deposits in any way I could see with my borescope.

Yeah, I had mixed results at first. And I certainly won't be offended if others do not want to use it...but it was a life saver on my last couple trips where I was firing about 450rds/day average. When brushing with bronze brush and traditional bore cleaners wouldn't work (even paste on a nylon brush wasn't working for me) I'd do 20-30 Strokes with CLR and Bronze brush...heavy carbon removed every time. I was careful not to leave in bore for more than 5 minutes, and followed and removed with patches of lighter fluid and then paste. I've not seen any etching or damage otherwise.

Works for me!

 

[rsbhunter]

We each find what works for us...was talking to a couple buddies about cleaning barrels, and we laughed about how many years ago, yould run a brush through the barrel, couple patches, one with oil....hold it up and look through the barrel and deem it clean....dam bore scopes ,,,,,,, rsbhunter

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

Generally all the VV 1 series is very clean burning, if you compare them to VV5 series it should help in that regard as the 5 series tend to be quite a bit dirtier in a barrel but CLR and carb cleaner combined with a good bronze brush have helped keep carbon buildup at bay in my rifles over the last couple years. If I feel it needs anything more Ill use a bit of Iosso of Autosol on a VFG cleaning pellet

 

[Mike TackleBerry]

Ok, no such creature I know...other than a brush and jb or iosso... So, are there really certain powders that form carbon rings more, or less? I shoot mostly 6mm Dashers, 22 br's enough that it can be an issue after 1 or 2 matches. I shoot Varget, RL16, lever evouloution (243 lbc) . I have RL 15.5 , VV N140 that I could go to. I'm also looking into VV N150....any experience with carbon for these , or other powders?? Thanks, rsbhunter

Clean the chamber and barrel after each match, Problem solved.

 

[DGP4]

I now use a bore mop soaked in Bore Tech C4 Carbon Cleaner inserted into the chamber after every range session while the barrel is still hot. I haven't had a carbon ring form using this protocol.