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Carbon Remover

HTSmith said:
What is the process with CLR--brush, patch, let it soak? How do you use it? thanks
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I run a wet patch through then a run a second wet patch going back and forth maybe 2 or 3 times up and down the bore. Let sit around four minutes then push a bronze brush through 3 or 4 times.

Next a few clean patches followed by alcohol or 409 to get the CLR out. Check with borescope repeat if necessary.
 
geo.ulrich said:
best, fastest , easiest. Citranox diluted in an ultrasonic cleaner. 2/3 minutes done.just stand barrel up and let it go. you can also fill a tube up and clean whole barrel but it takes longer. of course you have to remove barrel. kicks ass on pistols.
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Awesome on brakes and brass. Removes everything from SS brakes. Kinda hard on the looks of nitrided parts though.
 
Just an observation about cleaning from someone with WAY LESS experience than most on here. I have a new barrel on a 6mm Rem. Went the the suggested break in process of cleaning after every shot for about 10 shots, then cleaning after 3 shots for several groups. I used several different copper cleaners during this process...Butches, Bore Tech Eliminator, and patch out. The barrel eventually quit coppering and shot very well. I did not use any products specially for carbon removal. I now have shot 76 rounds thru it and looked at barrel with my borescope. The first 12-14 inches of the barrel had a fair amount of carbon build up. Soaked with Boretech C-4 overnight and scrubbed with bronze brush and cleaned until patches were clean. Looked thru scope and couldn’t really tell a difference...still black. Used the accelerator, patch out, and wipe out foam and let soak overnight...patched it out and looked thru scope...still black. Did the same process with CLR and scrubbed with bronze brush....same results-had some dark patches and cleaned until patches were white...borescope showed it was still black. According to my patches, the barrel was clean. Got a nylon brush, packed it with IOSSO and short stroked the barrel for a couple of minutes and it looked brand new. My takeaways are:
1. Carbon that has been there for a little while is tough to remove.
2. Hard to know it’s clean without a borescope. With each cleaner the patches would show some fouling and after some brushing and patching they would eventually be clean every time making me believe the barrel was clean. It was not even close to being clean.
3. For my break in period using Boretech Eliminator, Butches, and Accelerator/Patch out for removing the copper, Boretech Eliminator was the most effective.
YMMV
 
Coonman300 said:
Just an observation about cleaning from someone with WAY LESS experience than most on here. I have a new barrel on a 6mm Rem. Went the the suggested break in process of cleaning after every shot for about 10 shots, then cleaning after 3 shots for several groups. I used several different copper cleaners during this process...Butches, Bore Tech Eliminator, and patch out. The barrel eventually quit coppering and shot very well. I did not use any products specially for carbon removal. I now have shot 76 rounds thru it and looked at barrel with my borescope. The first 12-14 inches of the barrel had a fair amount of carbon build up. Soaked with Boretech C-4 overnight and scrubbed with bronze brush and cleaned until patches were clean. Looked thru scope and couldn’t really tell a difference...still black. Used the accelerator, patch out, and wipe out foam and let soak overnight...patched it out and looked thru scope...still black. Did the same process with CLR and scrubbed with bronze brush....same results-had some dark patches and cleaned until patches were white...borescope showed it was still black. According to my patches, the barrel was clean. Got a nylon brush, packed it with IOSSO and short stroked the barrel for a couple of minutes and it looked brand new. My takeaways are:
1. Carbon that has been there for a little while is tough to remove.
2. Hard to know it’s clean without a borescope. With each cleaner the patches would show some fouling and after some brushing and patching they would eventually be clean every time making me believe the barrel was clean. It was not even close to being clean.
3. For my break in period using Boretech Eliminator, Butches, and Accelerator/Patch out for removing the copper, Boretech Eliminator was the most effective.
YMMV
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Your experience mirrors mine.
If you are being literal about a couple minutes of short stroking with IOSSO, that may be excessive.
Next time you clean, clean out the IOSSO after 5 or 6 stokes or so and take a look. Depending on the condition of your barrel and the powder you use, it may be enough. After looking through the borescope a few times, you will figure out a minimal scrubbing routine.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice, and very useful information. The combined experience of cleaning on this one thread is amazing! And quite honestly, I’ve learned more in this thread about cleaning, than I have my entire shooting life. Hats off gentleman!

Like most, if not all of you guys here, I’ve spent my adult life shooting something, whether competitively or leisurely (about 30 years worth). Over the years, I’ve adopted different cleaning techniques, based on the data the rifle was giving me. In the most recent years, I’ve been using Butch’s bore shine, religiously. Hitting the rough spots with JB when appropriate. I’ve always felt that Butch’s has done a great job.....until I bought a borescope :). Hence, this thread.

Below is my general cleaning process.
1) Wet patch bore, let soak 5 min.
2) Wet brush, stroke 10 times (20passes)
3) Push dry patch through
4) Repeat till clean patch
5) Lube barrel as required for storage

This process generally only takes 2-4 repeats, based on round count. Below picture is what the patches have been looking like in one of my suspect rifles. Not abnormal, but not consistent with my other rifles in the same chambering.
7CCC3824-81E6-4184-8122-3890B58C3FE8.png
Because I’ve been experiencing an abnormal behavior with one of my rifles, I started digging into the root cause for decreased accuracy. This is where the scope came into play. I figure, you can’t fix what you can’t see. Here’s what I saw....after the above cleaning:confused:!
78BF4CDF-B8D0-4A3C-9523-365B72D5AFF8.jpeg BEB5F552-582D-47AF-B489-EAB1F643C027.jpeg
As you can see, lots of black...with imbedded copper. So, I figured there was no time like the present to start stripping! Thought about a solution used in the automotive world that cuts carbon, but non corrosive to metals....and I proceeded with an experiment. Boy was I surprised with what I found! Below is a photo of the residue I removed, after the barrel was supposedly cleaned. Holy smokes!
E8DD478D-017E-4B0C-A816-1A723DECB515.jpeg
The process here was just like I mentioned above, with the exception of fewer strokes, to be conservative.

Once I had the bore relatively free from carbon....low and behold, all the issues started to appear with the scope! Found several of these little copper robbers down the tube!
481DDF33-E662-45B2-A7EA-4F380D81B889.png
My conclusion here is, you can never be complacent with the norm, and you have to constantly monitor the data you get from your equipment. You also have to adapt to changes, and try to stay in front of issues, before it’s too late. Unfortunately here, too late!! I should have scoped this barrel before I chambered it!

Lessons learned, utilizing great forums such as this one can help immensely! The advise and suggestions here, although some may differ from the principals I adhere to, can often prompt you to dive deeper into critical thinking, which could ultimately drive you to desired results....such as I did here! :)
Thanks again guys for the nudge!
Regards,
Don
 
D. Eason said:
Im sure this has been discussed a million times here, so forgive me for asking. What’s you guys opinion on carbon removers? Best, quickest, and easiest remover you can find over the counter. Thanks in advance, Don.
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Don,
Go to your local auto parts store and get you some Berryman's carburetor and PCV valve cleaner. Cost you about 6 or 7 bucks. You will need a bronze brush and elbow grease to get carbon out but with a wet brush give it 10 strokes and then a clean dry patch. If the barrel has a lot of carbon in it the patch will be black. Repeat as required. I have never seen anything that would just dissolve carbon, but the engine cleaners that are made to get carbon off valves and head ports will usually work pretty well. The real secret is to never let it build up to the point of having to be this aggressive. Think I'm going to start using it every 200-300 shots and see if that'll keep the carbon buildup down. By the way, the wifi version of the teslong borescope is iphone compatible https://www.teslong.com/Rifle-Borescope/WiFi-Rifle-Bore-Scope But don't forget, the original version, while not iphone compatible, will work with your windows computer.
 
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clowdis said:
Don,
Go to your local auto parts store and get you some Berryman's carburetor and PVC valve cleaner. Cost you about 6 or 7 bucks. You will need a bronze brush and elbow grease to get carbon out but with a wet brush give it 10 strokes and then a clean dry patch. If the barrel has a lot of carbon in it the patch will be black. Repeat as required. I have never seen anything that would just dissolve carbon, but the engine cleaners that are made to get carbon off valves and head ports will usually work pretty well. The real secret is to never let it build up to the point of having to be this aggressive. Think I'm going to start using it every 200-300 shots and see if that'll keep the carbon buildup down. By the way, the rigid version of the teslong borescope is iphone compatible https://www.teslong.com/Rifle-Borescope/WiFi-Rifle-Bore-Scope
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Thanks Blair! I literally had that in my hand....but I opted for the Gumout injection cleaner instead. Also, preciate you bringing that scope out last weekend! I came straight home and ordered one. Love it!
Thanks
Don
 
antelopedundee said:
What is the preferred way to avoid getting it in the first place?
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I think like Blair mentioned, staying on top of it, and not letting it build up is the key. Depending on your shooting discipline and caliber, you’ll have to determine what that magic round count cleaning is. Using some sort of carbon remover and bore conditioner, on a more frequent basis is definitely in my near future! Regards Don
 
Rather than futzing around with brushes and drills and other assorted crap, have any of you considered simply corking your muzzle and filling the barrel halfway up the chamber with one of these solvents, cleaners, etc. and so on and so forth and just letting it soak for a day or longer?
 
My process currently.
-2 or 3 lose patches with CLR that will sit for about 10min.
-Patch out
-A nice tight patch soaked with CLR left to soak for about 10min before the next step
-CLR on a VFG (green) pellet rolled up tighly for a snug fit. Shortstroke the entire barrel
-Patch out
-Lite brushing with CLR for that hard carbon buildup
-Patch out

If I still see carbon Ill repeat the above

-VFG (white) pellet with sweets on working that sweets so the barrel foams up
-Patch out and im usually done

-Patch out with alcohol and run a patch of fluid film down the barrel

-Every couple 100 rounds ill give the barrel a bit of Iosso
 
antelopedundee said:
What is the preferred way to avoid getting it in the first place?
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My opinion, clean the bore at the end of each day's shooting before the carbon gets too hard. Having said that, I might shoot a 3 day match (FTR) with no cleaning then give the bore a few days soaking, brushing and maybe some JB paste.
 
rardoin said:
Yes. I’ve always used C4 and a bronze brush; it works great. However after a discussion in the pits at the last Berger SWN’s with a consistently high placing shooter I gave CLR a try. My cleaning time has been cut nearly in half...including copper cleanout. Yes, I do have a Hawkeye scope.
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im sorry, what is clr? thanks in advance, bryant
 
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