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Carbon Remover

J.d. Popkes said:
Oh, I wanna say it’s Kroil and some sorta alumina oxide. Holland’s. I just get tired of all the messy foam, wait, rinse/repeat, watching patches, is it my jag/brush causing the blue. I have a bore scope now. I don’t get excited about cleaning. I have other things to do. Witches brew on a bronze brush, a dozen passes, rinse, with brake clean, a patch of Kroil. This is what I end up doing anyway once I get frustrated with the other 50 bottles of crap I have sitting there. It’s clean, as in from the end of the neck, through the lead, all the way to the crown. Even that little corner where land meets groove. With a real rank factory barrel, wrap a patch around the brush.

if ya can’t fix it with a hammer, ya gotta electrical problem :rolleyes:
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Aluminum oxide (Alumina) is harder than ANY steel and shouldn't be used in a barrel you care about under any conditions.
 
Hohn said:
Aluminum oxide (Alumina) is harder than ANY steel and shouldn't be used in a barrel you care about under any conditions.
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I just retired my old Brux barrel last week after 2800 rounds and it was still shooting,
since day one I've been using Witches Brew every 300 rounds or so and the target was telling me it's all good.....I did care about that barrel a lot :D
 
rardoin said:
Yes. I’ve always used C4 and a bronze brush; it works great. However after a discussion in the pits at the last Berger SWN’s with a consistently high placing shooter I gave CLR a try. My cleaning time has been cut nearly in half...including copper cleanout. Yes, I do have a Hawkeye scope.
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So you use CLR and a brush? How quickly does the CLR seem to cut through, and how long do you allow to soak? Thanks, Don
 
D. Eason said:
So you use CLR and a brush? How quickly does the CLR seem to cut through, and how long do you allow to soak? Thanks, Don
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I pushed a medium fitting soaked patch x 2 down the bore and let it sit for about 10 minutes while I did other parts of my routine (wax the stock bearing surfaces, check torque on action screws etc). I then hit the bore with a nylon brush for 20-25 passes then patch out a couple of times with lightly wet CLR...at least until no black on the patch. I then run a wet patch with Cu2+ and let it sit for another 10 minutes while I clean and prep my bolt. I'll run wet copper remover patches every 10 minutes until no blue on the patch. If I have lass than 100 rds or so I have only had to use 2 or 3 copper cleaning patches. What I find impressive is that I shoot with an Ezell tuner and use RL-23 (which forms a very hard and thick carbon coat, in the pattern of the lands and grooves on the muzzle face which requires a bit of mechanical scraping with a plastic scraper to debulk) and the carbon on the muzzle where the CLR flows over dissolves off without touching it.
 
quest450 said:
I just retired my old Brux barrel last week after 2800 rounds and it was still shooting,
since day one I've been using Witches Brew every 300 rounds or so and the target was telling me it's all good.....I did care about that barrel a lot :D
Click to expand...

Glad you had success. I betting if you called Brux and told them you were using sandpaper abrasive to clean your barrel, they might suggest an alternative.
 
rardoin said:
I pushed a medium fitting soaked patch x 2 down the bore and let it sit for about 10 minutes while I did other parts of my routine (wax the stock bearing surfaces, check torque on action screws etc). I then hit the bore with a nylon brush for 20-25 passes then patch out a couple of times with lightly wet CLR...at least until no black on the patch. I then run a wet patch with Cu2+ and let it sit for another 10 minutes while I clean and prep my bolt. I'll run wet copper remover patches every 10 minutes until no blue on the patch. If I have lass than 100 rds or so I have only had to use 2 or 3 copper cleaning patches. What I find impressive is that I shoot with an Ezell tuner and use RL-23 (which forms a very hard and thick carbon coat, in the pattern of the lands and grooves on the muzzle face which requires a bit of mechanical scraping with a plastic scraper to debulk) and the carbon on the muzzle where the CLR flows over dissolves off without touching it.
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Awesome, thanks for the detailed info :)
 
quest450 said:
I just retired my old Brux barrel last week after 2800 rounds and it was still shooting,
since day one I've been using Witches Brew every 300 rounds or so and the target was telling me it's all good.....I did care about that barrel a lot :D
Click to expand...
Might have lasted 2801 rounds if ya would have cared for it better :)
 
best, fastest , easiest. Citranox diluted in an ultrasonic cleaner. 2/3 minutes done.just stand barrel up and let it go. you can also fill a tube up and clean whole barrel but it takes longer. of course you have to remove barrel. kicks ass on pistols.
 
geo.ulrich said:
best, fastest , easiest. Citranox diluted in an ultrasonic cleaner. 2/3 minutes done.just stand barrel up and let it go. you can also fill a tube up and clean whole barrel but it takes longer. of course you have to remove barrel. kicks ass on pistols.
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I have some alconox that came with mine. Works like a champ. I know simple green will get carbon off pistons in an hour look like new
 
I bought a used rifle that turned out to have had such a hard life that nothing could be done but rebarrel it. But in trying to clean the barrel I found out that EasyOff oven cleaner sprayed into the barrel and left to sit over night cleaned out all the carbon from however many years it had been in there. But the barrel had been so abused that the throat was the shape of a wound channel and wouldn't shoot.
 
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