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Carbon remover

Where do you get a portable boiler?
Here's one place , but there are many sources for small pressurized steam cleaners. Regular pressure washers won't do it, but super heated pressurized steam will cut it like butter. Don't worry about the residual moisture as it will self dry in seconds. Just be ready to oil it up right after cleaning cause the steam will strip any oils from the steel.
http://www.herringtoncatalog.com/pr...rm=28637385430&utm_content=Herrington Catalog
 
Gasket remover has been around since 1981 at least . If it were safe to use I'm sure anyone of the companies would be using it . When I was using it ( a lifetime ago ) it would attack many metals , paints , plastics . I strongly recommend you do not use it . Precision shooting magazine had a great article on chemical etching , especially when mixing chlorinated with oils .
I would seriously just stick with a good known safe cleaning procedure . I thread , chamber and install my own barrels and even at the cost of a blank , I would not use it , if you need to pay someone it could exceed $600 for a faster way to remove carbon ?
 
Gasket remover has been around since 1981 at least . If it were safe to use I'm sure anyone of the companies would be using it . When I was using it ( a lifetime ago ) it would attack many metals , paints , plastics . I strongly recommend you do not use it . Precision shooting magazine had a great article on chemical etching , especially when mixing chlorinated with oils .
I would seriously just stick with a good known safe cleaning procedure . I thread , chamber and install my own barrels and even at the cost of a blank , I would not use it , if you need to pay someone it could exceed $600 for a faster way to remove carbon ?
I let a bit sit on my old barrel for an hour and wiped it off and there was no etching whatsoever but that doesn't mean anything. I am hesitant to use it for sure. Too bad because im sure this stuff would take out all traces of carbon with ease. My sako 22 250 has around 2400 rounds through it and is at the end of its life. Still shoots around a half inch at 100 yards give or take and probably more like give. I might just try it anyway and see. If the accuracy is gone after using this stuff then ill re barrel it. I wouldn't dream of testing this stuff through my 6br and dasher barrels....... Yet.
 
If speed and safety are an issue I recomend using Purple Stuff , straight , it use in removing carbon from cylinder heads , valves and Pistons were absolute and fast . I have not tested it on barrel steels .
Gary
 
Starting fluid works very well, dries very quickly, and some brands have an "upper cylinder lubricant" in it leaving a light (very light) oil film on the metal. The cans are highly pressurized and blast out carbon in short order.

I've used Sea Foam (both varieties) but find it too dry to use straight as it makes funny noises with a patch and jag. A bit of ATF mixed in helps lubrication.

Really wish there were some effective NON-TOXIC alternatives.
 
I use Bore Tech C4 Carbon remover (which is non-toxic) which gives great results as verified with my borescope. If I want to do a deep carbon clean I install a Sinclair chamber plug, sit it upright and then fill the barrel with the C4 and let it sit for a day or longer and then do my cleaning. I talked to a Bore Tech technician and asked if it was ok to do a extended soak of C4 in a barrel and he said there will no problems at all with this method. He said they have a test tank of C4 which has barrels that have been soaking for a couple of years and have showed no negative results with periodic checks of the soaking barrels.
 
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I believe the GM top engine stuff is out of production. I went to to a local GM dealer a few years ago and they told me it was no longer available. Sold me the replacement stuff which didn't do squat. I now use a carbon remover called Carbon Cutter by Break Free that is made to remove carbon from black powder rifles. Works as good as anything else I have tried.
 
Some years back, a friend and I got temporary access to a Hawkeye, and used it before/after cleaning with Outer's Gunslick Bore Cleaning foam. Used according to instructions, this foam got all the junk out; usually on the first soak, definitely after a second soak.

We got pretty familiar with seeing copper, especially near the muzzle. Our best guess was that the muzzle end fouled more because that's where the bullet was moving fastest.

All that was used was cotton patches, followed by a lightly oiled (Hoppe's) cotton patch. Most of my barrels (all of the newer ones) have never seen a bronze brush.

A Passed Friend once taught me that bore cleaning was a chemical process, and not a mechanical one.

Greg
 

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