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Canted reticle

I have noticed this with some Phillipines Scopes
the XTR II being one for them
and yes it is very disappointing for anything over even a $500 scope
much less a scope costing over a grand
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I dont know the remedy other than find out at distance how much the turret is off from the reticle
and compensate for it
Meaning the more elevation dialed in the more it would show up downrange
it may only be something like 1 inch at 1000 yds
which is not a big deal if you are aware of it and can predict compensating for it
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or don't buy such brand of scope (lean to Japan vs Phillipines/China)
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I kinda like the other guys idea of Splitting the difference of the turret being level with the reticle
 
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A good test is to shoot a tall box test.
I.e., is the reticle off and the erector 'on'?

That said, it that thing costs $1500, I'd be on the phone with the manufacturer.
 
I drew a 90 degree angle on the piece of paper with a speed square and checked the windage that way. The bottom of the elevation reticle and the windage portion made a perfect 90 degree angle. It just appears that the top half of the elevation reticle is misaligned with the bottom half of the elevation. So when the scope itself is leveled, the top portion is on center and the bottom is slightly canted. So I'm thinking I should just adjust the bottom half to the plumb line (like in 2nd photo) and mount the scope in that position rather than level to the scope body itself? Basically level the reticle and not the scope. The top half will be canted but I dont see the need for the top half anyways.
If you're going to dial elevation, you want the erector (turret, top half of reticle) true to vertical, but if you're going to hold off the bottom half of the reticle must be vertical. Half a degree gets big at distance - 30 MOA is 300" at 1000 yards. The top half of the reticle likely won't be used because you'll zero at short yardage and won't hold under.
 

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