Can wipeout damage your barrel after a 5 day soak?

[Brians356]

Your guys do whatever you want.

Thanks! That goes without saying.

Edit: attached is the barrel extension. It was 100% perfect when it went into the receiver. The spots circled in red are deep pitting you can feel with your fingernail. The only thing this rifle ever got cleaned with it Wipeout foam and accelerator.

Now here I am in over my head, granted, but how did Wipe-Out find its way between the barrel extension and the action? Isn't that a tight joint? And, if you use a bore guide, wouldn't that prevent much if any cleaner even reaching (much less entering) that joint? And once it gets into that joint, how was it ever going to get flushed out? (I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, forgive me.)

I've been an engineer for 30 years, called upon to solve often unique problems every day. One thing I had to learn early on was to step back and think "outside the box". It's just possible (not likely, but possible) that the metal alloy of these two barrels in question played a part in this unexpected reaction to Wipe-Out. I can't explain how or why, but there it is.
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[Brians356]

"I never thought wipeout was all that great to start with, if you need to soak it, it ain't working very good...... Jim"

Patch-Out is a gel. Twenty minutes ain't much of a pain. Longer soaks are purely optional, depending on how bad any copper fouling is. I'd rather apply and go do something else, rather than sit with a stopwatch to avoid damage from ammonia. But, that's what makes horse racing. The stuff simply works for me. I do use thin stuff like Shooter's Choice+Kroil, or Hoppe's #9, to flush out the worst of the muck before applying Patch-Out.
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[gunsandgunsmithing]

"I never thought wipeout was all that great to start with, if you need to soak it, it ain't working very good...... Jim"

Patch-Out is a gel. Twenty minutes ain't much of a pain. Longer soaks are purely optional, depending on how bad any copper fouling is. I'd rather apply and go do something else, rather than sit with a stopwatch to avoid damage from ammonia. But, that's what makes horse racing. The stuff simply works for me. I do use thin stuff like Shooter's Choice+Kroil, or Hoppe's #9, to flush out the worst of the muck before applying Patch-Out.
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A gel? All I have seen is very liquid

 

[Brians356]

A gel? All I have seen is very liquid

Fair enough, bad word. Syrup? It comes out like Dawn dish soap. Compared to Shooter's Choice or # 9, night and day more viscous. I refer here to Patch-Out in a plastic squeeze bottle.
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[johara1]

"I never thought wipeout was all that great to start with, if you need to soak it, it ain't working very good...... Jim"

Patch-Out is a gel. Twenty minutes ain't much of a pain. Longer soaks are purely optional, depending on how bad any copper fouling is. I'd rather apply and go do something else, rather than sit with a stopwatch to avoid damage from ammonia. But, that's what makes horse racing. The stuff simply works for me. I do use thin stuff like Shooter's Choice+Kroil, or Hoppe's #9, to flush out the worst of the muck before applying Patch-Out.
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Really, it's a race if you competition you clean between relays. If you ever used Warthog you would throw that garbage, anway can totally clean two guns in 15 min. You wear out barrels with a cleaning rod trying to get them clean, 4 wet ones, 3 brush strokes and two more wet ones a dry one and one with 50/50 mix of hoppe's and Kroil. Done, and never pull the patch or brush back. ...... Jim

 

[geo.ulrich]

Really, it's a race if you competition you clean between relays. If you ever used Warthog you would throw that garbage, anway can totally clean two guns in 15 min. You wear out barrels with a cleaning rod trying to get them clean, 4 wet ones, 3 brush strokes and two more wet ones a dry one and one with 50/50 mix of hoppe's and Kroil. Done, and never pull the patch or brush back. ...... Jim

Gotta agree with this completly

 

[Knotwild]

Ok, I don't know what Warthog is, or where to buy it, but I am interested.

 

[johara1]

The past administration had a chemical put on the list and it could no longer be shipped so it put them out of business. Since then I have tried every over the counter brand and most are hyped are near worthless. I even went back to the old original GM. top engine cleaner and mixed it up with stuff a fellow shooter told me about. I'm still looking but maybe I'll find something before my Wart hog runs out........ Jim

 

[JRS]

Ok, I don't know what Warthog is, or where to buy it, but I am interested.

Warthog was essentially ammonia mixed with water and a few other ingredients.

 

[johara1]

Warthog was essentially ammonia mixed with water and a few other ingredients.

really, it don't freeze like Butches and some others.... Jim

 

[JRS]

really, it don't freeze like Butches and some others.... Jim

No kidding? Do you realize the temperature required for ammonia to freeze. How often are you cleaning your barrels in temperatures -100 degrees, or more, below zero

 

[johara1]

No kidding? Do you realize the temperature required for ammonia to freeze. How often are you cleaning your barrels in temperatures -100 degrees, or more, below zero

Butches is froze at 32, so what is wrong with ammonia? it never hurt a barrel in over 30 of them more than I can say wearing them out with a cleaning rod with average at best solvents. with 3000 rds on barrels cleaned with warthog and still hold a 1/4 min.
You do what trips your trigger, I wouldn't worry about what you think will happen, test and find what does not happen. Everybody worries about getting the carbon out, never had any carbon build up using Wart hog, more than I can say for these over the counter solvents. I may have used one brush a year, those days are over, have to buy them a dozen at a time........ Jim

 

[AckleymanII]

I have great respect for some of you guys that I know. I started with 6 rifles here of late on a test with Wipe out, accelerator, and patch out. Soaking over night left powder fouling in the barrel, I had to brush to get the powder out.

Mostly H4350, N140 were used in the rifles.

Barrels are High quality SS barrels.

I must be missing something, but have Lyman and Hawkeye bore scopes.

 

[Brians356]

I push out the black muck with common water-thin solvent-soaked patches, then apply and soak in Patch-Out for any copper. Works great for me.
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[johara1]

If you need to soak a quality SS. barrel you need to try something else for a solvent. ... Jim

 

[BDman]

Soaked a piece of my buddies' LMT SS5R barrel - cut off from the original barrel - in Wipeout accelerator for 15 minutes then transferred to a ziplock bag of Patchout and let soak for 7 days.
No, I mean NO spots inside or out. That piece of barrel is extremely clean now... FWIW...

 

[pacificman]

I use wipe-out and patch-out. I also use the accelerator....but after patch-out I will use Boretech C4 carbon remover
as the boretech seems to get rid of the remaining carbon and powder fouling a bit better. This will make
yer barrel "squeaky clean".....LOL

 

[kvd]

Edit: attached is the barrel extension. It was 100% perfect when it went into the receiver. The spots circled in red are deep pitting you can feel with your fingernail. The only thing this rifle ever got cleaned with it Wipeout foam and accelerator.

Interesting picture Chris. That is definitely corrosion pitting.
What is this barrel extension made of? - 416 stainless steel or some other 400 series stainless steel? Low alloy steel like chrome moly?
How long was it installed?

Ken

 

[FatBoy]

Interesting picture Chris. That is definitely corrosion pitting.
What is this barrel extension made of? - 416 stainless steel or some other 400 series stainless steel? Low alloy steel like chrome moly?
How long was it installed?

Ken

Ken,

I really don't know. I use Brownells barrel extensions. Seems harder than 416 but that is just a wild guess on my part. That extension could have seen months of product on it. The 6BR barrel was cleaned with the attention to detail of a 1938 German Scientist. I was meticulous right up to the point I pulled it and out a Dasher on.

Edit: that barrel was on about 14 months before we pulled it for an occlusion that opened in the chamber.

I did use the accelerator and foam on another 6br that started going over pressure. We set it back at 1700 rounds and with about 2100 it's starting to pop primers with the same load(new brass). I figure that barrel doesn't owe me anything so what the neck. Next step (besides reducing the load) is to treat it like a 6.5x284 and JB the deal out of it.

I sincerely hope I am wrong and the wipe out combo is fine and wasn't the cause, but that is the only cleaning products I used on my daughters 6BR and that Mk12 so I don't know what else to think. Watching TV or loading ammo while it works is so much nicer than scrubbing the hell out of a barrel, and it doesn't stink up the house like Butches, etc.

Edit for spelling

 

[Papa Charlie]

I have only had steel barrels up till now. Just ordered my first custom barrel. But for me the regiment has always been Hops #9 on brush, two or three passes, dry patches pushed through from breach until clean, CPI coated patch pushed through, followed by dry patches pushed through until clean and done.
Never had an issue with build up in the barrel or have had issues with the barrel.
Now, I am entering into a new world with my new to be SS barrel, not sure if the process is good for SS or not.

That damage to the OPs barrel almost looks like the damage you get on wet cylinder liners from the explosion that occurs in the chamber on diesel engines. The impact of the explosion causes air bubbles on the wet side of the cylinder liner to blow pieces of the cylinder liner out. Once it starts it accelerates in the cavity that is created. I wonder if moisture hasn't gotten between the barrel and action and this was caused by the in the same manner. Doesn't look chemical to me.