Hard bolt lift after cleaning

[urbanrifleman]

I'll try alcohol over starting fluid today and report back. Thanks

B/c Gun Scruber Syn Safe 10oz

Precision Rifle Shooting Accessories

theurbanriflemanstore.com

I wet patch the barrel with this after cleaning. No more dry patches. Wet wet wet. Then hose the chamber. It dries in a few seconds. Like it was never there.

 

[Clancy]

It's not uncommon to have short term pressure issues (hard bolt lift) after cleaning and it has nothing to do with oil or solvent in the chamber. It can be caused by that but it also doesn't have to be. I have one currently that if you get it too clean it'll pressure for 3-4 rounds. Solution is to not clean it too aggressively.

I have thought about this for almost a week and the only idea I have that makes any sense is the barrel is very rough, so it builds pressure until it gets slightly fouled.

Is that correct?

 

[JMayo]

In competition bat actions with Bartlett barrels 6 b r a, 30 br , 65x47 I've never used anything but a dry patch on a 40cal bore mop to clean out the bore after cleaning.
Sometimes i use the lug cleaning patch things.

 

[WSnyder]

I have thought about this for almost a week and the only idea I have that makes any sense is the barrel is very rough, so it builds pressure until it gets slightly fouled.

Is that correct?

In my case and the rifle I referenced, no it doesn’t appear rough at all. It does pressure until there is some fouling if cleaned too clean. Using Penephite after cleaning doesn’t help either if it’s too clean. If I just patch it out with Wipe Out and it’s fine.

 

[K22]

I've seen this occur with guys who apply an abundant of grease to the lugs, never clean the lug recesses resulting in the accumulation of a "mud" like junk in the recesses.

Dewey and others make a lug recess cleaning tool. You don't have to do it every time if you are not over lubing the lugs. I do it once a year at the end of the season. I clean the chamber every time I clean the bore. You can use patches or a bore mop with your favorite solvent. I use mineral spirits for the chamber. It removes all residual carbon residue.

Now for the "go against the grain" controversial commentary. I stop apply grease to the lugs several years ago, first for my cold weather hunting rifles, then eventually for all of them. Instead, I apply a very, very light coat of Hoppe's Gun Oil (mineral oil) with a brush then wipe it with my cotton flannel slightly oiled cloth. It provides sufficient lubricity without forming a mud like mix in the recess lugs. Nothing bad has happen to my rifles and I have not observed any wear of the lugs. If the lugs and recesses are matted correctly then I don't believe you need to apply grease. That's what I do but grease away if that's what you want to do. The less stuff in the chamber the better for me.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I've seen this occur with guys who apply an abundant of grease to the lugs, never clean the lug recesses resulting in the accumulation of a "mud" like junk in the recesses.

Dewey and others make a lug recess cleaning tool. You don't have to do it every time if you are not over lubing the lugs. I do it once a year at the end of the season. I clean the chamber every time I clean the bore. You can use patches or a bore mop with your favorite solvent. I use mineral spirits for the chamber. It removes all residual carbon residue.

Now for the "go against the grain" controversial commentary. I stop apply grease to the lugs several years ago, first for my cold weather hunting rifles, then eventually for all of them. Instead, I apply a very, very light coat of Hoppe's Gun Oil (mineral oil) with a brush then wipe it with my cotton flannel slightly oiled cloth. It provides sufficient lubricity without forming a mud like mix in the recess lugs. Nothing bad has happen to my rifles and I have not observed any wear of the lugs. If the lugs and recesses are matted correctly then I don't believe you need to apply grease. That's what I do but grease away if that's what you want to do. The less stuff in the chamber the better for me.

Some actions require grease. Mobil One Bearing Grease good to -65F. I use it lugs of every rifle I own. If your not cleaning your lugs you need to learn how to maintain your rifle properly.

 

[Steve Donlon]

My bolts have a black nitrate coating and I just put a little CLP or gun oil on the places where the black nitrate coating is worn away. Never used any grease on any action, even AR rifles. Makes cleaning after shooting a lot easier. But it is very dry where I live with hardly any humidity. I can see in some regions, grease would be an option. I also run a light patch of CLP or gun oil down the bore until I shoot again then run a dry patch through the barrel before I shoot.

 

[jelenko]

black nitrate coating is worn away

FYI. My understanding is the black color is just on the surface. The hardened area is microns into the surface.

I've found my bolts cycle smoother after the black coloring has worn off.

 

[Fuj]

Reason, I used Dri-Slide on my bolts. Keep em' clean.

 

[boltfluter]

Ive got a 4 groove bartlien 8twist 6dasher that is an absolute hammer but after cleaning it, i tend have hard bolt lift for 5-6 rounds and then just quits from one round to the next. It won't have it again until next barrel cleaning.

I'm using a bore guide not to spread oil or solvent, I mop and patch the chamber several times after dry patching the barrel. I've also tried blowing chamber dry with air compressor after cleaning, dry mopping and dry patching.

Barrel was cleaned at arrival from new, shot 3rds and had hard lift at 32g on all 3.
cleaned, shot 5rd and had hard lift at 31.5g on all 5.
cleaned and shot 10, had hard lift on 5 at 31.5g and went away at 6th cycle.
Cleaned and shot 10 more and had hard lift on 6 and completely went away again on 7th cycle.
Cleaned and shot 30 for load development. After 5 of hard lift it went away again. Started stepping charge up and ended at 32.3 and showing no signs of pressure. Cleaned and had hard lift again for 5 rds at 32.3 and went away again for remainder of 30 more.
I'm not seeing any pressure signs as far as primer flow, no markings on bolt face, i can't find and dimensional differences in length or length to shoulder dimension from the "hard lift ones" to the brass fired later on in the cycle. It's a kelblys atlas, 8twist 4groove bartlien, varget powder, alpha brass, cci 450 primer, 108 berger .010 into lands. Currently has 111rds and is consistent in the pattern still. Never had this in any other rifle as long as chamber was dry and clean. What am I missing???

Sounds like you have a bore condition problem to me. Isopropyl alcohol pretty much eliminates a chamber condition to me. I would change up the cleaning regiment until you see a change and proceed from there. Sometimes too clean can be a problem as well. My moly barrels are this way in that they need a specific cleaning procedure for hunting. With the method I use, the first round is always in the group. Very important in a hunting rifle situation. Good luck and keep us posted.
Paul

 

[pdog06]

I have noticed this with my Christensen Arms Mesa 6.5cm as well.
Bought it new and noticed while following their break in procedure that every time I cleaned it there would be a harder than normal bolt lift for the first 5-6 firings after cleaning, then just goes away and functions smooth as silk…

I’ve had the rifle for 2 years and only have 125 rounds thru it, and 80 of them was the one day breaking it in..lol I guess I will have to revisit this to see if I can figure it out as well. I like to think I’m pretty good at getting my barrels clean not leaving residue in the chamber(I swab the chamber each cleaning), but never know.

 

[FrankG]

I have thought about this for almost a week and the only idea I have that makes any sense is the barrel is very rough, so it builds pressure until it gets slightly fouled.

Is that correct?

If the bore of the barrel was really rough... you most likely would have fouling issues which would should lead to accuracy issues.

So my .02 without seeing the barrel... it's not rough.

What solvent was being used to clean the barrel? I didn't see that anywhere.

If the barrel would start out building pressure as is being said.... and it was a barrel issue... it would keep building and should get worse... not go away/get better. So I'm going to say not a barrel or chamber issue.

In almost 30 years of doing this... I've never experienced anything like this personally on my own guns. As well as.... for an approx. number... in almost 30 years we've made somewhere around 30k+ ammunition test barrels and never had a ammo maker call up with a problem like this.

As has been pointed out... and this is why I shoot a dry bore/dry chamber... any solvent left in the chamber... at the instant of firing... the brass cannot grip/bite the chamber walls... the oil/solvent prevents this... this in turn makes all of the pressure (don't want to call it that) be directed to the bolt face... which causes bolt thrust and the case will stretch/get really tight and in turn causes the hard bolt lift. Then after a few rounds as things get dried out etc... the issue goes away.

If you put the gun away with a light coat of oil/solvent in the bore...and to me it doesn't matter if it's standing on end or sitting somewhat level hanging on the wall... I'll run a slightly fresh patch of Hoppes down the bore (I store all my guns with Hoppes) and then I dry patch the bore and chamber thoroughly. Doing this... I've never had an issue.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

 

[Steve Donlon]

FYI. My understanding is the black color is just on the surface. The hardened area is microns into the surface.

I've found my bolts cycle smoother after the black coloring has worn off.

Thanks Brother, I was trying to point out that I see no reason to put any oil on any places that are not wearing the black nitrate away. I see very few places that really need any lube. Even on AR rifles.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

One way, a SLOW way to figure it out, is to change one thing at a time regarding your cleaning regimen. I would start with the items that are the most unusual steps/if you get my drift. Very interesting thread here. has the rifle always done this?

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Easiest don't clean at all, see if still occurs next range day. If you are only shooting a few rounds, cleaning is optional unless water is an issue.

 

[Rick300]

I had that issue on a Tikka T1X. I found out that cleaning fluids were creeping into the bolt raceway after I thought I had cleaned everything really good. It gummed up after a couple shots and made the bolt really stiff. HTH

 

[bobcat93]

What the heck kind of problem is this to have just start out of no place..
I love reading and learning how to fix this stuff so when it happens to me i dont freak out..
I would flip my lid if my Kelbly rifle just started having a sticky bolt, but a quick post on the forum and the worries are simplified, and usually solved.
Love it!, absolutly love the quick solution the forum produced for ya.
Haha..oh you guys....come on..bring it in..group hug.
Hahaha