Can I punch out my 6br to Dahser without a lathe???

[queen_stick]

I currently have 6BR chamber (done professionally), and I'd like to change it to a Dasher.

I'm thinking about chucking a Dasher reamer in a drill and knocking this thing out!

What are you're thoughts on such an idea?

Walt

PS, the use of proper tools would be included (GO/No-GO gauges, reamer stop, and etc...)

 

[mr45man]

NO you will end up with a 1/2 a## job.

JMHO, and i have got some brass from a guy that did a ream job
in his garage and you can tell in the fired brass.
But i guess you could try it and if it did not work out you could get it done professional and loose a bit of barrel length.
John H

 

[potatoe]

 

[dwt]

Go for it !

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Tis yers to do with as you please and the outcome can only be blamed on the 'guilty' party. Just for the sake of time etc I would opt for a hammer drill to decrease cutting time and make the job cost effective! :-X

 

[JDMock]

My advice...for whatever that's worth....."Don't do it!" James

 

[queen_stick]

I'm curious why you guys think this could end badly?

Here are the reasons I think it would work:

1) The existing 6br chamber was done professionally

2) Barrel is currently chambered in coincidence with the bore (I know that because of item #1)

3) the Dasher reamer has a smaller neck than than the existing 6br chamber, so the remaining neck area, lead, and etc will remain where it's at.

4) I would use a separate throating reamer, but in theory, I wouldn't need to if I'm happy with where the throat is at now.

5) the reamer is piloted (and I have the correct pilot), so it has no chance of 'walking' off course. It should walk in as straight as the bore.

6) I have a Go Gauge (and a piece of tape to create a no-go gauge)

7) I have some Dasher brass (from another rifle), so I could compare the cases to make sure everything is 'normal'

Note, I'm not trying to stir up the nest here... just would like to know if there's something critical that I've missed, which would suggest NOT doing this...

 

[Erik Cortina]

You'd be better off turning the reamer by hand than with a drill.

 

[nosualc]

This sounds like an expensive lesson waiting to happen...

-nosualc

 

[queen_stick]

You'd be better off turning the reamer by hand than with a drill.

agreed.

I threw the drill idea out.

 

[shortgrass]

Been waiting to see an "idea" like this get posted. Have at it,,, by hand or with the Black & Decker. One won't be any worse than the other. There's quit a distance to go between BR and Dasher. That distance is alot of room to make mistakes. I just can't understand why a gun smith would bother with owning a lathe when a 1/2" drill would do!

 

[Billch]

I say try it. You should be prepared to have it set back and redone by a gunsmith if it doesn't work out.


B

 

[M-61]

Walt...."knocking this thing out.." is the correct phrase. Over the years in a number of 3rd (or 4th) world countries I have seen things done to firearms I thought would be impossible. Those folks had no other choice and limited facilities and in some cases limited faculties. Lots of stuff can be done but in my opinion this job you are contemplating will go poorly so fast you won't believe it. I found it commendable that you laid out a series of reasons why it should work. Bottom line....DON"T!

 

[queen_stick]

Check out my new dasher

Disassemble:



check where Dasher reamer 'bottoms out' in the 6br chamber:



Set up the stop on the reamer (throating reamer shown, but same setup on the chamber/finish reamer:



cut the chamber (by hand with shown 'tap handle' and check the headspacing:



closes JUST snug on the GO gauge:



Reassemble:



Last step - fired three rounds into the hill behind the house... cases came out perfect.

I cut the throat .035" forward of where it was. This allows the 105gr Amax to 'jump' without being seated below neck/shoulder junction. (The only reason I'm concerned with the Amax, as this barrel LOVED that bullet in 6BR, so that might be true as a Dasher as well)

the three fired cases have zero runout out of the chamber (just like the 6BR chamber). When I say 'zero' i mean the needle JUST flickers as the case is rolled in the runout gauge.

the only remaining 'test' is accuracy... I'll start load development soon! I'm really excited to see how it shoots! lol!

Walt

 

[queen_stick]

Forgot to mention...

The warnings and suggestions to NOT do this were not ignored... I spent a long time contemplating this before I dove in.

I spent A LOT of time measuring, and re-measuring before a single cut was made. I cut the chamber in steps, not in one pass. That way I could double check the chamber length and readjust the stop as needed.

I have a plan in place to have the barrel set back (as a Dasher of course ) if this thing shoots like ***...

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Sometimes a big pair O balls and determination work and save you money, sometimes they cost ya! Never know until the dust settles and you hear the 'fat lady' warmin up her pipes for a tune. LOL As long as your satisfied and it shoots like you want then things are good.

My comments and I am sure a few others were skeptic as none of us had a clue as to what you know or don't know about chambers, how they are supposed to be and safety issues involved. I would guess most of the crowd including myself of course, were 'waiting for the train wreck' because of your initial post and it involving a drill, not a common tool used in barrel installations unless you are working under a big 'shade tree' if you get my point

 

[queen_stick]

using this for 1k br, so I need it to be accurate. might even try to win the World Open with it!

 

[queen_stick]

Sometimes a big pair O balls and determination work and save you money, sometimes they cost ya! Never know until the dust settles and you hear the 'fat lady' warmin up her pipes for a tune. LOL As long as your satisfied and it shoots like you want then things are good.

My comments and I am sure a few others were skeptic as none of us had a clue as to what you know or don't know about chambers, how they are supposed to be and safety issues involved. I would guess most of the crowd including myself of course, were 'waiting for the train wreck' because of your initial post and it involving a drill, not a common tool used in barrel installations unless you are working under a big 'shade tree' if you get my point

point well taken, and no offense taken.

I can see how/why this would be frowned upon, but I'm also not 'one of those guys' that would shove a piece of 2x4 between the block and the crossmember and call it a motor mount!

 

[ebb]

Ive done this a few times with short chambered barrels. Ive not done it as deep as you went but, I am sure it will work if you do your part and don't screw it up or ream it too far.. I person I know was doing one in my shop and he went too far and I cut the shoulder and chamber end shorter and started over. The guns all shot better than the sum of the parts should have. I don't understand why so many want to discourage anyone from doing things like this. I really wish I knew why they are that way, the only thing I can think of is they know they would ruin it and just assume everyone is as untalented as they are. Glad you got it done I hope you win the nationals with it!

 

[kelbro]

I think that most of the nay-sayers have paid a gunsmith big money to chamber a barrel for them and the gunsmith did a good job of 'selling' them on the complexity of the task.