Can a simple 1" table belt-sander be used for recoil pad finishing?

[VaniB]

Anybody successfully used this kind of machine to install a thin recoil pad?

I was wondering if the simple and inexpensive 1" belt table sanders (about $50) can be used to shape a 1/2" to 3/4" thick rubber recoil pad to a stock and provide a fine and nice looking finish. (?) I may only do one or two stocks in the next 10 years or so. Therefore I don't want to get carried away buying an expensive $600-$1,500 free standing commercial machine with a 3" wide belt.

I figure I might modify the machine for the task like removing the hard metal plate away from the back of the belt so the belt stays flexible as I push the stock into it. I could also fasten a thin kitchen nylon cutting board onto the metal table surface so I don't ding the stock as it is being slowly rotated.

 

[DOGCAPPER]

Sure ...if the production rate is unimportant..You can use a 4" side grinder to remove the major excess material then finish with the 1" sander...Leave the metal backer on..It will help maintain the stock lines thru the pad..LT

 

[Tozguy]

Check what kind of belts are available for the machine before deciding. There might not be as many choices as for the wider belts. You might also consider getting close using the machine and then finish by hand. Unless you have much practice with the belt sander and have the right belts, you would probably get a better looking job doing the final last bit by hand.

 

[shortgrass]

If you're only going to do "one or two in the next 10 years" find a 'smith that does professional work. He'll charge you $35-$50 plus the cost of the pad. It'll beat messing up a stock or two and be cheaper besides! A grinding jig is the way to go for stocks that are already 'finished', along with a 2" wide belt or a 10"-12" disc sander. Quickest way for a novice to 'screw-up' is to use power tools for 'finish' work.

 

[Tozguy]

The machine you are looking at could come in handy for many other little jobs that might come up in the next ten years but that is for you to judge. You might consider a similar 1'' belt model that also has a disc sander on the other end of the motor. They are marginally more expensive but provide a wider flat surface that is required for some jobs.
If you do two successful butt pad jobs with it it will more than pay for the machine. If you botch the jobs it will make a gunsmith's fee look like peanuts. FWIW Good luck

 

[Larryh128]

I use one like that for finishing OR getting very close. The last bit I do by hand with open back cloth on a piece of plactic. You can get 1" belts from 60 grit on down, make sure that you run a good layer of heavy masking tape on the stock first. The disc sander will work better for roughing, the only thing that you will fight is the tendancy to round the edges of the pad. There is a lot of movement on the 1" belt.

 

[VaniB]

I use one like that for finishing OR getting very close. The last bit I do by hand with open back cloth on a piece of plactic. You can get 1" belts from 60 grit on down, make sure that you run a good layer of heavy masking tape on the stock first. The disc sander will work better for roughing, the only thing that you will fight is the tendancy to round the edges of the pad. There is a lot of movement on the 1" belt.

Hmmmm......I know what you are describing about rounding the edges. A finished pad with rounded edges would bother me.




Actually, I have already sanded the pad about 95% to the shape of the buttstock, and was going to use a power belt tool for the final fine finish. It's funny how I've planned the procedure in the reverse of what you are suggesting.....that I should instead use a power tool to get it 95% done, and THEN finish it by hand. What I have found so far, is that using a slow stroke of a manual sanding block doesn't produce the smoothest fine surface that a power tool at 1,100 RPM would produce. If you examine the surface of the rubber pad closely after slow and careful hand sanding, the rubber is kind of micro balled. (like how the rubber rolls off of an erasor) It's kind of OK, but not real smooth like a factory job.

Thankfully, I intend to use auto body putty and paint on the wood stock, so it can be touched up. But I do want the pad flush and smooth, and not rounded. Thanks for the very helpful input guys.

 

[Tozguy]

Vani, if its only the appearance of the rubber that is the problem, have you considered a final step of buffing the rubber with a Dremel tool? A felt bob charged with tripoli red is supposed to be good for polishing rubber. Just a thought. Thanks for keeping us posted.

 

[Stephen Frith]

Anybody successfully used this kind of machine to install a thin recoil pad?

I was wondering if the simple and inexpensive 1" belt table sanders (about $50) can be used to shape a 1/2" to 3/4" thick rubber recoil pad to a stock and provide a fine and nice looking finish. (?) I may only do one or two stocks in the next 10 years or so. Therefore I don't want to get carried away buying an expensive $600-$1,500 free standing commercial machine with a 3" wide belt.

I figure I might modify the machine for the task like removing the hard metal plate away from the back of the belt so the belt stays flexible as I push the stock into it. I could also fasten a thin kitchen nylon cutting board onto the metal table surface so I don't ding the stock as it is being slowly rotated.

Short answer, no.
S

 

[Stephen Frith]

Hmmmm......I know what you are describing about rounding the edges. A finished pad with rounded edges would bother me.




Actually, I have already sanded the pad about 95% to the shape of the buttstock, and was going to use a power belt tool for the final fine finish. It's funny how I've planned the procedure in the reverse of what you are suggesting.....that I should instead use a power tool to get it 95% done, and THEN finish it by hand. What I have found so far, is that using a slow stroke of a manual sanding block doesn't produce the smoothest fine surface that a power tool at 1,100 RPM would produce. If you examine the surface of the rubber pad closely after slow and careful hand sanding, the rubber is kind of micro balled. (like how the rubber rolls off of an erasor) It's kind of OK, but not real smooth like a factory job.

Thankfully, I intend to use auto body putty and paint on the wood stock, so it can be touched up. But I do want the pad flush and smooth, and not rounded. Thanks for the very helpful input guys.

Interesting. A pad not having rounded edges would bother me. Ask yourself
which pad would hang up on clothing quicker. when mounting for a shot.
S

 

[3Ackleys]

Short answer, no.
S

I bet after 8 years the dust has settled on this one

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I bet after 8 years the dust has settled on this one

Hes still pacing the sidewalk in front of harbor freight