buying Tempilaq

[RW]

Doe's any one know what the best place to buy 750 Tempilaq? I did some checking and the price is all over the place and some wanted 14.95 for shipping a 2 ounce bottle! I am not going to pay that for some thing that can be put in a envelope!! Thanks ,RW

 

[savagedasher]

I would call a welding shop supplier . Many of shippers wont let you ship liquids. Larry

 

[nmkid]

No help here but, I think you'll find that you don't really need the stuff. Practice on some old cases.

 

[zipollini]

Midway has it for $ 23.49 with shipping at $ 5.00

 

[bsumoba]

mcmaster?

 

[JamesnTN]

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=750+tempilaq&sprefix=750+temp%2Caps%2C393

 

[jlow]

No help here but, I think you'll find that you don't really need the stuff. Practice on some old cases.

This is basically true. IF you anneal the right place with the right amount of heat, there will not be enough heat migrating down to the head to cause a problem which is what Tempilaq is useful for testing. BTW, that is the 400 degree stuff and not the 750 degree stuff which is basically useless. The reason is if you put the 750 degree stuff on the neck and shoulders, even if you heat it to less than 750 degree, it is going to burn out because the flame you use to heat the area is much hotter than 750 degree even though the brass itself is not yet at 750 degree.

The 400 degree is use to monitor the degree of heat migrating down to the head. That you can also avoid using by again not over heating the neck/shoulder. This of course relates to annealing with a machine which gives consistent heating (vs. the drill and socket).

To anneal properly, heat the brass in a dark rook and look for an annealing time that starts to cause the neck/head to give off a very slight dark red glow. Back off by ½ second and use that time and you will be good. Save your money - no need to use Templiaq unless you are doing it by hand AND is not getting a consistent degree of heating.

 

[Brians356]

I've got more than I'll ever use up in a lifetime, but it's 450-deg.

 

[jray57]

The reason is if you put the 750 degree stuff on the neck and shoulders, even if you heat it to less than 750 degree, it is going to burn out because the flame you use to heat the area is much hotter than 750 degree even though the brass itself is not yet at 750 degree.

This is true with the 750 on the inside of the neck?

 

[jlow]

The reason is if you put the 750 degree stuff on the neck and shoulders, even if you heat it to less than 750 degree, it is going to burn out because the flame you use to heat the area is much hotter than 750 degree even though the brass itself is not yet at 750 degree.

This is true with the 750 on the inside of the neck?

No but can you see inside the neck well enough to use it? You also have to remove it from the neck afterwards if you use it in a piece of brass that you plan on shooting with.

In the end, it's your choice. My experience is it is unnecessary if you use the 1/2 second shorter than the glow in the dark method, but you have to use what is comfortable for you. Just giving the OP choices.

 

[/VH]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-indicating-liquid/=yt0h2x

750 seems to work fine inside the case neck.

Edit: Actually, I've been using 650° can't speak from experience about the 750° but I expect it would work as well.

 

[nmkid]

RW...Tell you what. If you are really bent on using Tempilaq send me a postal M.O. for $6.00 and I'll send you an almost full bottle of 650F and a bottle of thinner!! Can't beat that! Let me know and I'll PM you my full address.

 

[richardca99]

I've done a lot of annealing, and I'm firmly in the camp of "Tempilaq isn't worth the effort." It's just not that hard to learn to look for the dark red glow in a dark room, and you're not going to overheat the case head if you stop at that point. Tempilaq makes a mess that must then be cleaned off the case--especially if you apply it in the neck.

 

[Jose_Luis_G]

RW...Tell you what. If you are really bent on using Tempilaq send me a postal M.O. for $6.00 and I'll send you an almost full bottle of 650F and a bottle of thinner!! Can't beat that! Let me know and I'll PM you my full address.

By the way.
Does any of you know what is the Tempilac thinner composition about?
I've got two bottles and they are very close to stone dried.

 

[nmkid]

RW...Tell you what. If you are really bent on using Tempilaq send me a postal M.O. for $6.00 and I'll send you an almost full bottle of 650F and a bottle of thinner!! Can't beat that! Let me know and I'll PM you my full address.

By the way.
Does any of you know what is the Tempilac thinner composition about?
I've got two bottles and they are very close to stone dried.

I'm only saying because I don't know...Is it possible the caps were on tight? The bottle I have is about 2 years old and still full.

 

[amamnn]

Tempilaq is good for determining how much time to roast your various cases the first time or two that you anneal. Obviously big and/or thick cases are going to heat up differently from the smaller/thinner ones. Looking at the pretty colors in a dark room may be trippy and fun and all that, but it is not really accurate being a subjective situation, watching the outside of the case cook to some degree that the inside may not be reaching. If you anneal with a flame the chemical must be used inside the neck to tell when the brass is annealed not just when the TQ burned up in the flame, as mentioned earlier.

Induction annealers do not cause that problem and so you can watch the TQ on outside and know the second your case is annealed right. I end up using it a few time every years since I anneal after every 5th shooting and I shoot several different cartridges sometimes forgetting how long to cook something that I do not shoot all that often. BTW, using my induction annealer and TQ, I can also anneal .357 .44 and .32H&R mag. cases, saving a little more money and making the thing more worthwhile...........

I got mine here~~~~~~>http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-crayons/=yt6ctw a few years ago and it is still liquid--wasted my money buying the thinner maybe? 750 degree Fahrenheit seems to be the way to go.

 

[Baddog0302]

Amamnn ?
You talk about using TQ, but your link brings up "heat sticks" or heat crayons . It would seam on Med. .308 Cal. down to .224 cal cases that the heat crayon would be easier ?? apply heat and count ___. If it dosen't melt, get another case apply heat and count say 25% more that before. Continue till you have the correct count ??
Easier that trying to look down a 223 case neck ??

 

[jlow]

The Tempilaq crayons are completely useless for reloading. They are meant to be used on surfaces that maintain temperature. If you try to use them on a case, the temperature falls so fast when you take the case off the flame that the reading you get using the crayons will not resemble in any sense the temperature it was at when the flame is on it.

 

[RW]

Thank You Very much for the help I went thru my shop and I found a Rotisserie motor that I was using for building fly rods and I attached a piece of tubing for the shell holder and used the motor in place of a drill, it turns very slow but I don't think that hurts the process. I tried a few cases and I think I am doing it right. Turned the lights out and counted till the case neck junction turned a dull red.

I have a question, If you let the cases cool can you redo the process just to practice getting the time right?
These are cases that I will not use to load, just cases to experiment with to get the process down?
I have a older RCBS powered trim master and I am going to use the drive motor to build some thing a little fancier in the future,
Another question is it better to use one of the hotter gasses such as the mapp gas to achieve the right temp. faster?
Thanks to every one for taking the time to help me learn this procedure I have always been a little reluctant to do. I know it will really help with my neck tension! Ron

 

[GrocMax]

Infrared temp gun? No muss, no fuss.

Metal color is a pretty darned accurate temp indicator, good for 100F range easy.
Before there were temperature instruments, there were color charts for each alloy.