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Buying a Forster CO-AX Press. Any tips, accessories, or suggestions?

I use the Inline Fabrication "Ultra Mount" which provides better stability and gets the press up closer to eye level. I use their curved linkage arms too, which give much better access to the shell holder area from the sides.

I got the Forster short handle, much easier for me to use especially with the press raised up as it is on the Ultra Mount, and I got the shell holder adapter because I like to set my headspace using the Redding Competition Shell Holder set.
 
I really love my Co-AX. It's Bonanza marked but painted Forster red, not Bonanza brown. I wouldn't resize on anything else. The leverage is great.

In regards to the lock rings. I use both Forster (or old Bonanza) rings and Hornady lock rings. I've seen the Hornady rings allow my sizing die to "drift" forward in the press and I have to push it back towards the rear of the slot. I don't really know how or why it happens, I think it's related to vibration. The aluminum Forster/Bonanza rings are a little more sticky in the slot, and the dies don't drift. YMMV

I use the Forster case holders without any issue. I have a set of LS jaws that I use for reloading 44M. That's my only use for them, you can squeeze 44M into the big side of the S jaw, but you really only engage the case at the corners of the opening. Get the LS jaws and a spare set of springs.

Keep an eye on your spent primer drop tube. Large primers can stick and back-up causing you to bend your decapping pin (ask me how I know).
 
23s Dad said:
Keep an eye on your spent primer drop tube. Large primers can stick and back-up causing you to bend your decapping pin (ask me how I know).

That happened to me today. Last time I used the press I decapped a bunch of .338 Lapua. Today I started decapping 6mm BR and on about the third one it took extra effort. I stupidly applied extra effort instead of taking the time to figure out what was wrong. TINK.

Busted the decapping pin on my special Redding decapping die (and only then discovered that the pins are not replaceable, you have to replace the whole shaft with pin, ten bucks a pop!).

When I checked, the tube was jammed with a large rifle primer with a short stack of small rifle primers on top of it, that's what broke the pin (well that, and my stupidity). From now on I will make sure to clear that tube after decapping the .338s or .308s.
 
I too use the Inline Fabrication curved linkage. But I only use one curved link on one side to allow me easier access to place the case body in position for bullet seating. I find that using both curved links causes the press to cam over which is something I do not want.
 
I have this press and would prefer using the standard shell holder over the floating jaws, where do I find these for the press and how are they installed?
 
JamesnTN said:
I have this press and would prefer using the standard shell holder over the floating jaws, where do I find these for the press and how are they installed?
James, any of the big suppliers have them, I just checked Midway, but Sinclair, etc probably will carry it, Forster #: AP1000. Installation, remove 2 screws on jaws, remove jaws, install Forster #: AP1000, small set screw on front of Forster #: AP1000, back out, install shell holder, slightly tighten set screw. To change shell holders, loosen set screw, remove old shell holder, install new, snug set screw. It has been my experience that Redding shell holders fit better than other brands. I sometimes rotate the shell holder, and some brands make this difficult without a small bit of "polishing" or grinding.
 
I have been using my Bonanza/Forster Co-Ax for over 30 years and I love it. I have upgraded mine with the short handle, and it still does my case sizing, and reforming my wildcat brass, with ease for me. I have the standard shell holder adapter available since I cannot get any of the jaws to properly hold my .218 Brass and it works well in this application.

I have thought about upgrading to the new yoke handle to clear some of the newer micrometer seater dies, but I decided against this since I use mostly L. E. Wilson hand seater dies for all of my precision reloading needs.

I went ahead and mounted mine to a Sinclair Press Stand about 10 years ago, and this has made this press portable so that I can use it at the range for reloading there for load testing. When it is not being used, I use the Forster Co-Ax press cover to keep it clean for my next use.

I have found that I use mostly Forster lock rings, but I have replaced all of the cheap cross slot screws with stainless socket head cap screws and I no longer have any issues with blade slots stripping out. I also use a lot of the Sinclair cross bolt rings, a stash of the old Lyman steel cross bolt lock rings, the Hornady cross bolt lock rings since the wrench flats seem to work okay, and many of the other lock rings from Redding, RCBS, Lee Precision, and even my old Pacific die lock rings work! So do not ignore a stash of non-crossbolt lock rings since they have shown me that they will work well in most instances.

Bob Blaine
Berger Technical Specialist
Berger Bullets
 
Bob Blaine said:
I have found that I use mostly Forster lock rings, but I have replaced all of the cheap cross slot screws with stainless socket head cap screws and I no longer have any issues with blade slots stripping out.

The current production Forster aluminum rings come with socket head screws installed. All of mine are that way, the two that came with the press and the 12 pack I bought from Sinclair.
 
CAn some measure the thickness of the lock rings with some calipers. Want to know if they are any thicker/thinner then Redding, RCBS and Lee lock rings.
 

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