Bushing scratching cases

[stubbicatt]

Thought I would shortcut the process of neck turning new brass today, pulled the Whidden FL bushing die out 1/2 turn and ran necks into the bushing to make them round, to be followed by the inside expander, and then the outside neck turn. The bushing was a Redding steel bushing, inserted with the numbers "down" towards the shell holder.

That bushing scratched the bejibbers out of the case necks, which due to turning, was subsequently removed. Why did these necks get so carved up by the bushing? I pulled the bushing out of the die and tried to clean it with a bore brush in a drill, but no dice. It kept scratching. Next I thought I'd try 0000 steel wool around the brush, but gave up thinking that this might alter the dimensions of the bushing.

I ordered a new bushing. How to keep this from happening again?

Regards,
Stubb

 

[Rem6br]

Are you using lube on the case necks? Just a thought

 

[Jay Christopherson]

The steel bushings will do that, the TiN coated bushings do not. But TiN is a lot more expensive. On the plain steel bushings, I used some 1500 grit paper to break the leading edge a bit. Hasn't eliminated it completely, but it's better. I just live with the marks on the calibers I use outside bushings on. I mostly use while I'm waiting for Lee to build me a collet die...

 

[Immike]

The numbers are supposed to be up. You should be able to see them after you drop it in. There is less bevel on one side.

 

[ridgeway]

Just something to check...pull the bushing totally and run a case into the die. Its possible the neck opening in the die is shaving it. I had a Redding die that shaved the neck without a bushing. I used fine sand paper on a tiny dowel rod to knock off the burr inside.

 

[CatShooter]

The steel bushings will do that, the TiN coated bushings do not. But TiN is a lot more expensive. On the plain steel bushings, I used some 1500 grit paper to break the leading edge a bit. Hasn't eliminated it completely, but it's better. I just live with the marks on the calibers I use outside bushings on. I mostly use while I'm waiting for Lee to build me a collet die...

Oh, yes they will - i have 7 or 8 TiN bushings in a box that scratch case necks. Both the steel and the TiN often have rough mouths that will scratch the case necks.

You can polish the steel ones, you cannot polish the TiN bushings.

 

[jo191145]

When I first started annealing I ran into this problem. Soft brass clung to the inside of the bushing creating nasty scratches. Bronze brush helped just a little.
Try soaking the bushing in mild solvent like Hoppes overnight then use a wet bronze brush on it. If that's your problem it will come right out.

 

[jlow]

Imperial wax will help but the problem is likely is too much of a differential between the neck diameter and the bushing internal diameter. Use a caliper to measure neck diameter and see how far it is from the bushings.

 

[butchlambert]

If you can find and use solid carbide bushings your problems will disappear.

 

[stubbicatt]

Butchlambert, where does one find carbide bushings?

Thanks guys.

Regards,
Gregory.

 

[butchlambert]

What size do you think you need? Have you tried Brownells-Sinclair?

 

[stubbicatt]

.288. I ordered up another from Sinclair earlier today, but this time I bought a Wilson as opposed to a Redding. This decision was necessitated by the total loss of the bushing as it slipped from my grasp and rolled God Knows Where in the garage

 

[Jay Christopherson]

The steel bushings will do that, the TiN coated bushings do not. But TiN is a lot more expensive. On the plain steel bushings, I used some 1500 grit paper to break the leading edge a bit. Hasn't eliminated it completely, but it's better. I just live with the marks on the calibers I use outside bushings on. I mostly use while I'm waiting for Lee to build me a collet die...

Oh, yes they will - i have 7 or 8 TiN bushings in a box that scratch case necks. Both the steel and the TiN often have rough mouths that will scratch the case necks.

You can polish the steel ones, you cannot polish the TiN bushings.

Ok, let me re-phrase: "the dozen or so TiN bushings that I own do not..." guess I've just been lucky.

 

[tenring]

The numbers are supposed to be up. You should be able to see them after you drop it in. There is less bevel on one side.

Reddilng catalog says their bushings should be inserted with letters down; Wilson bushings up. I have a set of duplicate bushings (one Wilson , the other Redding, both .323"). One TIN, the other steel. Sized cases using a few of each same size bushing the other day and found that the steel bushings produced better concentricity.

 

[treeman]

in my experience bushings that are scratching cases have a build up of brass that is doing the scratching. polishing them with 1500 grit wet-o-dry then follow up with jb bore paste solves this problem for me. and yes it alters the size of the bushing but not appreciably. be sure to use plenty of lube on case necks to avoid this problem.

my $.02

 

[LongRanger]

The steel bushings will do that, the TiN coated bushings do not. But TiN is a lot more expensive. On the plain steel bushings, I used some 1500 grit paper to break the leading edge a bit. Hasn't eliminated it completely, but it's better. I just live with the marks on the calibers I use outside bushings on. I mostly use while I'm waiting for Lee to build me a collet die...

Oh, yes they will - i have 7 or 8 TiN bushings in a box that scratch case necks. Both the steel and the TiN often have rough mouths that will scratch the case necks.

You can polish the steel ones, you cannot polish the TiN bushings.

Catshooter and all:

For only $6 you can get a 5 gram syringe of graded diamond grit that will last you a long long time and easily polish your nitride bushings....or anything else. Just remember to use sparingly...diamond grit is very aggressive.

Go here and order the "L" oil soluble compound and reclaim those expensive bushings:

http://moldpolishing.engis.com/category/diamond-compound/?gclid=CP3dwJ7U47gCFSgV7Aod6XEAoA

Frank B.