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Please help with neck bushing issues

On the photo of your case neck it shows both horizontal as well as vertical abrasion markings on the case neck. I am assuming the horizontal markings are from neck turning and the vertical is what you are expressing concern over. I have experienced somewhat of the same phenomenon. These "striations", if you will, have only appeared on brass sized with Redding "Nitride" bushings. I have Redding Nitride, Wilson "steel" and Whidden "steel" bushings. Why they have only appeared on the Nitride bushings escapes me. Having said that, I use the "Montana Extreme" nylon brushes and I take a drill and spin those brushes inside the bushing. Then I "wipe them clean" with a Q-Tip and old rag I use to wipe lube off of cases. Once the inside diameter of the Nitride bushings are cleaned and somewhat "lubed", I start using them again. I can go several hundred rounds before that "process" needs to be re-used.. Apparently, the introduction of the Nitride on the bushings, instead of increasing their lubricity, evidently contracts some debris that causes those striations. That debris, whatever it is, can be removed using the method I described above. It does work for some time>>>>although I am in the process of changing all my bushing over to either Wilson or Whidden.. There is less trouble.. I hope this helps..
 
Yeah these bushings dont have the same ultra smooth finish as my other bushings. I will try to salvage them tho.

Anyhow...problem is solved :)
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I was comparing a Whidden bushing finish to the Wilson. The Whidden is not nearly as smooth. It has been deliberately machined with a very light multi-ring textured finish.

I suppose the Whidden bushing finish would make more sense for smooth operation because 2 smooth surfaces can create a lot of friction and resistance. That being said, perhaps the Wilson was stripping my neck in areas due to a combination of fresh annealing and the neck finsh being too smooth.
 
Wilson bushing needs to be installed with the size up? Mine can be used either way, only there is a .0005 difference in diameter from top to bottom to allow you a little leeway when sizing. My Wilson bushings do not look like yours, but I probably bought mine before you were old enough to start shooting. LOL I don't have that problem as I have solid carbide bushings in 22, 243, 6,5, and 30 cal.
 
I was comparing a Whidden bushing finish to the Wilson. The Whidden is not nearly as smooth. It has been deliberately machined with a very light multi-ring textured finish.

I suppose the Whidden bushing finish would make more sense for smooth operation because 2 smooth surfaces can create a lot of friction and resistance. That being said, perhaps the Wilson was stripping my neck in areas due to a combination of fresh annealing and the neck finsh being too smooth.

Let us know if the new bushing scratches your case necks. New case necks are soft and your new bushing is rougher.
 
I thought the number went up so you can see it from the top of the dieo_O
Redding engraves numbers on their bushings and if seated up the bushing can tilt very slightly as it bottoms out when case neck pushes it up. CRT bushings were laser marked, I believe, and could be seated either way...I think Whidden acquired his business.
 
Where did you get your carbide bushings - I have been looking for some for a while now. Appreciate it if you can say.

I was in the carbide bushing business about 10yrs ago. I had a total of 29 different sizes between 4 different caliber sizes.
Sizes that I have left-.241, .2425, .243, .260, and .331.
I made the mistake of offering too many sizes and it was a huge investment with a slow return. They were offered in .0005 increments.
 
I have had brass stick to a new Lee Carbide pistol die and a new Hornady titanium nitride die. The problem is worse with ultra clean wet thumbed brass and no lube on the case neck. And I have polished new rifle carbide expanders that had brass sticking to them.

Polish your first bushing with a snug fitting cleaning mop that has the brass sticking to the inside of the bushing. After you polish the bushing and remove the brass make sure your freshly turned necks have some lube on them.

Dillon recommends lubing the cases with their full length rifle carbide dies. And I use Hornady One shot on my pistol cases sized with carbide dies. Give a good copper bore solvent a try and then polish the die with a cleaning mop. They sell a combo deal at Midwayusa of J&B bore paste and Kroil or just use some Mothers mag and wheel polish, automotive rubbing compound etc.
 

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