Burris Signature Zee Rings

[Ram]

I'm about to install some 30mm Burris Signature Zee rings, and I have a few questions as this is the first time installing these type rings.

1) The rings came dripping in oil. Are these rings prone to rusting?
2) When test fitting to check the ring height, the scope with insert would not sit flush in the ring (up a little more than a 1/16"). Is it usual to required some force to push the insert down into the ring? This was the case with both rings and the insert was in alignment with the ring.
3) The instructions don't list a torque value for the cross bolt or the cap screws. What is the correct torque to use?
4) Can these steel rings be used with a aluminum base, or is steel base required.

I know these are rather basic questions, but this is also the most expensive scope I've ever purchased and I want to be sure I get it right.

Thanks!

 

[BoydAllen]

Mine are dry, and they have not rusted. It is hard to make a judgment about the height of the inserts, but if you are worried, I don't think a little trimming would hurt. If I did, I would distribute the trimming to all four ends of a pair of inserts. I have not had the problem. Because you are bending steel to clamp, I find that about all the torque that you can apply with a regular screwdriver, held normally, works. When using Weaver style rings, I set the cross bolts against the fronts of the notches in the base before tightening. Aluminum base OK, but don't use one that won't allow the ring to slide on without prying. If you try to pry the ring, to open it just a little, it is easy to go too far and ruin a set of rings. Have you figured out how to set up with offset inserts if needed? On that, remember that +5 pairs with -5 in the same ring, and so on.

 

[fdshuster]

Ram: I've been using the Burris Signature Zee's since they became available, and certainly not an expert, just relating what little I know & what works for me. (1) All my many sets have been coated with oil when opening the package. I wipe it all off. They probably put it on for long term shelf life in a tropical climate where they may be prone to rusting. (2) With the majority of scope tubes ( both 1" & 30mm) I've also had to press down on the scope tube very slightly to get the inserts into the rings. I actually like it that way since I can lift the scope out of the rings at some later time & they stay in place & can be easily slid around if needing to make adjustments with the off set rings. (3) I called Burris Customer Service about inch pounds of torque for the ring screws & base mount cross bolts and was told: T-15 torx ring screws to 20 inch pounds. Base cross-bolt slotted head screws to 32 inch pounds. I too thought this lack of info was a shortcoming. (4) I use them on both aluminum and steel base's without a concern. Just what little I think I've learned.

 

[Ram]

Looks like I may have a problem with the rings. It took 25 in-lbs on the cross bolt before it closed up enough to grip the rail, which will only leave me with 7 in-lbs actual clamping load. I measured the rail width and it is 0.835", which is right on spec.

Anyone have this problem? I've only read posts where the ring was too tight and had to be spread to fit.

 

[Skunce]

I had one set that fit too loose and I tightened them carefully, to bend the ring mounting ears inward, before installing them on the rail. I was able to get a snug fit before tightening the cross screw that way. I've also change to socket head screws instead of the factory slotted screws and in one case changed the original 6-40 screws to 8-32. Check to be sure the bigger screws will fit in your base slots and it requires a drillpress to redrill the holes.