Bungee on two piece rest?

[Tad_Earhart]

Bad idea Pat, let the gun move, you will be farther ahead in the long run.

I do not disagree with wanting the gun to move but there are a lot of good shooters having success with locking them down in a one piece. I think it is a crutch to make things work but if it works for them and repeats, then it is fine I guess. Letting it move is only half the equation with the other half trying to determine how much and at what speed. The bungee will work on the two piece but repeatability will be an issue without very methodical setup every single time. Also something to be said about angle relationship change between front and rear and how that effects recoil no different than the thoughts of binding and tracking changes in the two piece setups.

Tad

 

[PWNolan]

Bad idea Pat, let the gun move, you will be farther ahead in the long run.

I discussed this with John awhile back and decided to try it. The gun seems to shoot pretty well that way. Plus it takes the guesswork out of tightening the sides the right amount and having the bungee tension just right. I plan to do more testing at some point. For now that's what I'm going with

 

[gkgeiger]

When I had my UL rifle and Arnold rest with roller top I never played with bungee tension. Just left it the way I got it. Probably should have experimented with that.

 

[TRSR8]

Laws of physics being what they are, guns recoil.
Trying to moderate it is one thing, trying to stop it, entirely another, especially for a guy, new to UNL, new to the rest, new to the gun. One more unneeded variable IMHO.
Same thing in CFBR, be it bag guns or 70lb rail guns, they all work better when allowed to move in a controlled fashion.

 

[PWNolan]

Laws of physics being what they are, guns recoil.
Trying to moderate it is one thing, trying to stop it, entirely another, especially for a guy, new to UNL, new to the rest, new to the gun. One more unneeded variable IMHO.
Same thing in CFBR, be it bag guns or 70lb rail guns, they all work better when allowed to move in a controlled fashion.

I get what you're saying Tim (noted) but there's no "trying to stop it" going on here. It's stopped. The gun doesn't move. I've shot several matches with it this way. 24 cards if I'm not mistaken. The rest top sides I'm using have 1/2" flats on them but the thickness didn't allow me to tighten them down. So I 3D printed a spacer for the right side. Now I can tighten it down and the gun is centered and doesn't budge. I put some rubber between the stock and sides to protect the stock and minimize vibration. I can shoot at the same POA all day if I want

When I was keeping the sides loose and using a bungee it worked ok but it seemed like I had to adjust the tension depending on the weather (humidity?). I wasn't using the same tension on the sides and bungee. I've about that effecting how guns shot. I started locking it down and no longer worry about it. My scores didn't drop (not that they were fabulous to begin with) and I think they've improved when I have a handle on the crazy conditions we've had here this year

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

What I found is barrel profile plays a part on how much the rifle needs to be restricted in the rest from recoiling. shorter stiffer barrels need more resistance to recoiling back. the way I have my rest and bungee setup you really need to watch as it doesn't look like my rifles recoil at all. but they do maybe a 1/4" at most.
another factor is my rifles weigh from 18-20 lbs., so it helps slow recoil with the weight as well.
As I mentioned before slowing recoil helps the barrel achieve the upward movement, I want to time the bullet's exit at the right spot the barrel reaches. for me this part of the equation to tune with.
I tried locking down and it didn't seem consistent for me. but like everything in this RFBR game do and use what works for you. the only person you need to satisfy on the results are you.

Lee

 

[Todd Earhart]

Lee, earlier in thread you had pictures of you measuring resistance. We set a indicator at end of forend and take reading when rifle is pulled off stop by .001. Is this the way you do it? Barrel profile and total tuner weight play a huge factor in amount of resistance.
Todd

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

Lee, earlier in thread you had pictures of you measuring resistance. We set a indicator at end of forend and take reading when rifle is pulled off stop by .001. Is this the way you do it? Barrel profile and total tuner weight play a huge factor in amount of resistance.
Todd

Todd, I only measure the amount of weight resistance as measure with the scale that will make the rifle move off the front stop, I never really measure actual amount off the stop. as I pull back, I can see the both the scale and stock at the rear of the rest as soon as I see it move that is the measured weight I record. I set the bungee tension at just about 10-lbs. then use the front bag squeeze to adjust the recoil movement for each rifle. with rifles I already tuned I know by looking at the sighter groups if I have the correct amount of squeeze resistance. I have it down to where I push back on the front of the stock, and it will not move forward then I just back off on the front bag till the rifle RTB.

On barrel profile and tuner weight I agree it plays hand in hand with how much you need to slow down on the rearward movement.

Lee