I am not worried about the primer. I was just hoping someone came out with a durable puller, the plastic ones do not seem to hold up for me.
The problem is having a die for every caliber. I love the collet puller, but can't do without the kinetic puller for one offs.Once I learned how to use the Forster bullet puller, you know, after I read the ^%*^ manual, I'll never go back to a kinetic puller.
https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bullet-pullers/
The problem is having a die for every caliber. I love the collet puller, but can't do without the kinetic puller for one offs.
Good point. If I get a gas gun round that misfed and is set way back, the hammer will get the bullet far enough out to use the collet.Though I did find a couple/few gentle taps in the inertial puller will allow you to correct a rifle round seated too deep. Always check the setscrew for some tension on the Wilson micrometer seaters.
Old thread here but I am reviving it because I had a similar event happen and wish to share as a public service. I was using an inertia bullet puller hammer with all the original factory parts and equipment. Pulling a bullet from a handload that was probably 1-2 years old. 6mm Hagar, it was either ball or R-15 powder, I think a Fed 210M primer.No, and doubt it would ever happen.
During my career I was directly involved in weapon systems development that included some tests that put ridiculous G shock forces on primers, fuses, and “triggers” and can say that there is a huge difference between the forces it would take to set off a primer and the force you get from an inertial bullet puller.
Ever watch one of those slow motion videos of a bunker buster or delayed trigger on a penetrator round. Or, imagine the forces on the triggers and fuses of a shell? I am not trying to say those are identical, but the margin of safety on a small arms primer against G shock is very good when discussing an example of just going for the ride installed in a case. Introduce a firing pin that can punch the cup or have a primer cup slip down into an anvil, and those odds change.
Those compounds and primer designs in rifle and pistol primers would require several orders of magnitude more force to distort or cause a detonation than one could ever arrange from a bullet puller, hand powered or spring actuated.
If a ”loose” primer were able to “slip” in a way that forces an anvil to impact, then the odds can change, but even then it would take such an extreme example of bad fit and higher than conceivable forces from a puller to arrange such an example. (We tried, but with a slam into chamber.)
The hypothetical examples one can imagine to lead to an installed primer being set off with an inertial puller could go on for days, but in the context of motorized machine guns and cannons, those hypothetical extremes were tested and not even a remote risk.
The only thing I will add, is to never leave a primer installed flush or protruding for a semi-auto or auto, cause those slam fire contexts are an actual risk compared to the ones from an inertial puller.
Glad you only got a good scare, versus loosing an eye.I have unloaded hundreds of rounds with an impact hammer and this was the first time I have had a problem. Never the less, I will never use an impact hammer again.
-Trevor
Wow! Never thought of doing that and hope nobody else has.and, of course, never try to seat a primer deeper once the round is loaded.
Yes, and I don't know, but it necessitated and underwear change. I was just grateful that the reason for pulling it was because I had failed to charge the case with powder.Has anyone ever had a primer go off when pulling a bullet with a inertia bullet puller? If so what caused it?
Never had one go off. Although I've broken a few inertia pullers so I went to a Hornady Cam Lock Bullet Puller which virtually eliminates any chance of primer ignition.